Overheating problem

[Lemmy]

Not sure if it’s been mention, here’s something you can take a look at. Jeep delivered the vehicle with a spring in the lower radiator hose. They placed this spring in this position to prevent the hose from collapsing under load (such as higher rpm’s and highway driving).
See if this spring is in place. Or if the hose is squishy, install a high quality radiator hose (Continental) that resists collapsing.
Check your coolant mixture, should be a 50:50 mix.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Not sure if it’s been mention, here’s something you can take a look at. Jeep delivered the vehicle with a spring in the lower radiator hose. They placed this spring in this position to prevent the hose from collapsing under load (such as higher rpm’s and highway driving).
See if this spring is in place. Or if the hose is squishy, install a high quality radiator hose (Continental) that resists collapsing.
Check your coolant mixture, should be a 50:50 mix.

Good call. Just was reading through the overhaul thread on here and someone mentioned that. I guess I’m draining my tank. Bought a cheapo AC Delco water pump to swap in before I spend some big money. Also going to pull the thermostat when I do that tomorrow.

 

[JKP]

Did you buy a thermostat from the dealer yet?

If you buy a MOPAR thermostat, you will get a MOTORAD now, which is complete junk.

Only decent option that I know of now is the Robertshaw from Flowkooler.

OP, there's no need to plug the AT lines on an AT radiator used in a manual unless you think you might use the AT cooler for something one day.

 

[mrblaine]

Once again wanted to add more pictures of the winch blocking half of the grill. My mechanic swears this is the issue lol.

Also I know people on here hate the k and n air filters. Previous owner installed one on this Jeep. Could that be increasing the engine temperature to where my cooling system can’t catch up?

And it’s confirmed a denso radiator.

View attachment 543066

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I don't recall exactly but memory says that the fan blade should not be that far out of the fan shroud. Typically, I seem to recall and will verify here in a bit, that most of the blade is in the shroud.

Maybe some other folks can take some pics to see if my memory is accurate.

Interested to hear what your mechanic said about the no winch test failing since that was a given.

If this was mine, I'd be doing a good engine flush before I did anything else.

 

[mrblaine]

If you buy a MOPAR thermostat, you will get a MOTORAD now, which is complete junk.

Bullshit. I buy and use the Mopar all the time and have been without a single failure in a part of the world where it matters, a bunch. I will not install a MOTORAD, I will install a Mopar.

OP, there's no need to plug the AT lines on an AT radiator used in a manual unless you think you might use the AT cooler for something one day.

Correct.

 

[JKP]

Bullshit. I buy and use the Mopar all the time and have been without a single failure in a part of the world where it matters, a bunch. I will not install a MOTORAD, I will install a Mopar.

Correct.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...motorad, have been,has acquired stant now too.

 

[Deputy Dodge]

I don't recall exactly but memory says that the fan blade should not be that far out of the fan shroud. Typically, I seem to recall and will verify here in a bit, that most of the blade is in the shroud.

Maybe some other folks can take some pics to see if my memory is accurate.

Interested to hear what your mechanic said about the no winch test failing since that was a given.

If this was mine, I'd be doing a good engine flush before I did anything else.

The rule of thumb used to be 2/3 in and 1/3 out.

 

[mrblaine]

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/anyone-know-who-provides-mopar-thermostat.25004/#:~:text=They're motorad, have been,has acquired stant now too.

I'm aware, but until I have an issue that breaks a perfect record of zero failures, I'm not going to change what I'm doing, nor should I.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Got outside, took the radiator cap off and ran it for 20 minutes. I was throttling it up once it was close to 195 and would see the coolant retract into the rad and could see it flowing. Top hose was hot. Could get it to 215-220 running it at 3,000 rpm’s for 5-10 minutes. It can’t possibly be the stat right? This shit is so frustrating. At higher rpm’s the pump should be spinning faster.

If this ac delco pump doesn’t help when I install it tomorrow, I’m moving into the territory that the motor is bad and I’ve hot head gasket issues. It’s still under warranty.

So freaking frustrating. There’s way more heavily build TJs that don’t have this problem.

Of course my buddies all keep saying “time for a LS swap”….but this motor is brand new. Ha.

 

[Moglocker]

Bullshit. I buy and use the Mopar all the time and have been without a single failure in a part of the world where it matters, a bunch. I will not install a MOTORAD, I will install a Mopar.

Correct.

 

[Moglocker]

Right you are,my mopar t stat cost me 23 bucks worth every penny,this 5200lb shitshow runs right in the middle.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Right you are,my mopar t stat cost me 23 bucks worth every penny,this 5200lb shitshow runs right in the middle.

View attachment 544659

A perfect example of why my winch should have never been the issue my mechanic thought it was…

 

[Moglocker]

A perfect example of why my winch should have never been the issue my mechanic thought it was…

Yes,and my winch covers more than yours did.I had a car do the exact thing when I was younger,would heat up on hwy,I even ran a 2nd gauge in the head,it was an auto zone thermostat that I had put in (changed to 160) so it would run cooler(lol)went to dealer problem solved.

 

[mrblaine]

Of course my buddies all keep saying “time for a LS swap”….but this motor is brand new. Ha.

I know of but a scant few LS swaps that don't struggle with cooling issues. Them that don't, didn't get it right the first time.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

I know of but a scant few LS swaps that don't struggle with cooling issues. Them that don't, didn't get it right the first time.

In the event I do a swap, I’ll be doing a small block Chevy…but I don’t have 8k to do that job when I should have a perfectly good motor to last me another 10 years at least hah. Just need to get a handle on the cooling. I’m going to flush my whole system and swap some parts on Tuesday to see how it goes. The denso radiator should be fine, though you did pique my interest with the fan location being less inside the shroud and more outside. Were you able to get some measurements for that? Another member on here mentioned 2/3rds of it in the shroud and 1/3 outside. Perhaps something was installed improperly with the fan when the new motor was installed?

 

[MikeE024]

Got outside, took the radiator cap off and ran it for 20 minutes. I was throttling it up once it was close to 195 and would see the coolant retract into the rad and could see it flowing. Top hose was hot. Could get it to 215-220 running it at 3,000 rpm’s for 5-10 minutes. It can’t possibly be the stat right? This shit is so frustrating. At higher rpm’s the pump should be spinning faster.

If this ac delco pump doesn’t help when I install it tomorrow, I’m moving into the territory that the motor is bad and I’ve hot head gasket issues. It’s still under warranty.

So freaking frustrating. There’s way more heavily build TJs that don’t have this problem.

Of course my buddies all keep saying “time for a LS swap”….but this motor is brand new. Ha.

If you are making the effort to change the water pump, then I highly recommend also changing the thermostat. You heated your current thermostat up to temps that caused my thermostat to be stuck closed.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

…

Of course my buddies all keep saying “time for a LS swap”….

Your buddies are anti-Hemites.

 

[Moglocker]

If you are making the effort to change the water pump, then I highly recommend also changing the thermostat. You heated your current thermostat up to temps that caused my thermostat to be stuck closed.

I have been telling him that for a week(lol)it could be that simple.no sense spending a lot of cash until you try a quality thermostat with the hole at 12.00 o’clock

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Alright…..
Swapped the thermostat out, drilled the hole as I’ve read about on this forum, replaced the water pump with a AC delco pump. Hooked everything back up the way it was, and burped the lines so I had no air in the system. Took it for a test drive, no leaks but still would run hot.

Clutch fan is new and everything else has been replaced in the last 2 weeks. I flushed the system today too. No gunk behind the old thermostat, no gunk behind the old pump. Everything looked great.

Not sure what to do now…has to be a bad air/fuel mixture in the motor to make it run that hot right?

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Ran 215ish on freeway at like 55-60 on flat ground. Ran 225ish on the side streets in 3rd gear at 4k rpm’s to try and see if I could make it overheat.