I think @Chris had problems with the rear trackbar when he did his tuck. Maybe he could remind us of his solution.
My solution was the GenRight tank, which gave me a good 5” plus of extra clearance
I think @Chris had problems with the rear trackbar when he did his tuck. Maybe he could remind us of his solution.
At least my predicament helped someone!I have stock length lower arms on right now with no lift and savvy uppers, Savvy TT and Savvy gas tank. Rotating the pinion twisted the rear stock track bar bushing, so I got a MC stock replacement as a temporary solution. Went out just now to see how much clearance I had and glad I did as I am missing a bolt and the other is loose on the tank.
View attachment 160942
Keep me updated when the parts arrive. I’m interestedYou are not alone!
Started to set pinon angle and didnt even get close. A number of different factors on mine. Currie rear trac bar and relocation bracket on the way. We'll see.
View attachment 160975 Kinda thought this would happen.
Crack is crack.Baby butt crack brah! Lol!
The rest of my TT went rather smoothly toÎż.Serves me right for the rest of TT going so smoothly. That's ok, makes it easier to justify the next purchase.
The transmission is held up by nutserts, if a larger bolt is used they can be extremely strong. Why do you not trust them?I wouldn't be comfortable using nutserts to hold up a gas tank, given the weight and bouncing.
The transmission is held up by nutserts, if a larger bolt is used they can be extremely strong. Why do you not trust them?
That is very helpful.
Yes that lip is welded together and open inside. Wouldn’t be difficult to cut it back and weld a plate to connect them back together. Also the tank bolts can be moved back an inch or two when you trim. @Wildman or I can weld it for you if you visit either. Essentially it’s just boxed steel that can be notched and welded. I would just bend the bar for clearance, but if you don’t have a press then it wouldn’t make sense.@BuildBreakRepeat, this part I have circled below, is the steel split open at that part so there is a gap in between? I'm trying to get a feel for how much I can trim there.
View attachment 161055
Yeah, I'm pretty much up a creek without a paddle at this point since I don't have any of these tools. I'm okay with that for now. I'm pretty tired of messing with all this and I have several other projects ongoing. I will get it corrected in the future. Next I will start with a bushing from JKS that will work on the other end @Wildman sent me. Then I will push the tank bolts back as much as possible. Then I will see where I am. If I still need more to get 93" wheelbase, I will see about trimming that crossmember. Apart from the JKS bushing, those are pretty much free adjustments I can make. Thanks for the help. It gives me something to mull over for awhile.Yes that lip is welded together and open inside. Wouldn’t be difficult to cut it back and weld a plate to connect them back together. Also the tank bolts can be moved back an inch or two when you trim. @Wildman or I can weld it for you if you visit either. Essentially it’s just boxed steel that can be notched and welded. I would just bend the bar for clearance, but if you don’t have a press then it wouldn’t make sense.
