Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
I have stock length lower arms on right now with no lift and savvy uppers, Savvy TT and Savvy gas tank. Rotating the pinion twisted the rear stock track bar bushing, so I got a MC stock replacement as a temporary solution. Went out just now to see how much clearance I had and glad I did as I am missing a bolt and the other is loose on the tank.
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I have stock length lower arms on right now with no lift and savvy uppers, Savvy TT and Savvy gas tank. Rotating the pinion twisted the rear stock track bar bushing, so I got a MC stock replacement as a temporary solution. Went out just now to see how much clearance I had and glad I did as I am missing a bolt and the other is loose on the tank.
View attachment 160942
At least my predicament helped someone!
 
You are not alone!

Started to set pinon angle and didnt even get close. A number of different factors on mine. Currie rear trac bar and relocation bracket on the way. We'll see.
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Kinda thought this would happen.
 
You are not alone!

Started to set pinon angle and didnt even get close. A number of different factors on mine. Currie rear trac bar and relocation bracket on the way. We'll see.
View attachment 160975 Kinda thought this would happen.
Keep me updated when the parts arrive. I’m interested
 
Serves me right for the rest of TT going so smoothly. That's ok, makes it easier to justify the next purchase.
The rest of my TT went rather smoothly toÎż.

Even with the trackbar issues, mine drives like a dream now. I think I really needed a DC driveshaft before all this. It is so much smoother now. It is very nice to drive. I honestly can’t believe it. I thought it was good before.
 
The transmission is held up by nutserts, if a larger bolt is used they can be extremely strong. Why do you not trust them?

Largely because the frame thickness and larger nutserts gives more biting surface, resulting in a stronger hold. Besides that, I didn't say it couldn't be done, just that I wouldn't be comfortable supporting a tank full of gas that way. Of course I also realize it's just three bolts there (for a stock skid), but I'd still not do it that way. Best to address the root cause of the issue, if possible.
 
@BuildBreakRepeat, this part I have circled below, is the steel split open at that part so there is a gap in between? I'm trying to get a feel for how much I can trim there.

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@BuildBreakRepeat, this part I have circled below, is the steel split open at that part so there is a gap in between? I'm trying to get a feel for how much I can trim there.

View attachment 161055
Yes that lip is welded together and open inside. Wouldn’t be difficult to cut it back and weld a plate to connect them back together. Also the tank bolts can be moved back an inch or two when you trim. @Wildman or I can weld it for you if you visit either. Essentially it’s just boxed steel that can be notched and welded. I would just bend the bar for clearance, but if you don’t have a press then it wouldn’t make sense.
 
Yes that lip is welded together and open inside. Wouldn’t be difficult to cut it back and weld a plate to connect them back together. Also the tank bolts can be moved back an inch or two when you trim. @Wildman or I can weld it for you if you visit either. Essentially it’s just boxed steel that can be notched and welded. I would just bend the bar for clearance, but if you don’t have a press then it wouldn’t make sense.
Yeah, I'm pretty much up a creek without a paddle at this point since I don't have any of these tools. I'm okay with that for now. I'm pretty tired of messing with all this and I have several other projects ongoing. I will get it corrected in the future. Next I will start with a bushing from JKS that will work on the other end @Wildman sent me. Then I will push the tank bolts back as much as possible. Then I will see where I am. If I still need more to get 93" wheelbase, I will see about trimming that crossmember. Apart from the JKS bushing, those are pretty much free adjustments I can make. Thanks for the help. It gives me something to mull over for awhile.
 
Dude...send me the two rod ends. I can make em match, if one works. I have a press, welder, torch, etc. Or, if @BuildBreakRepeat or @Wildman are willing, I'm sure they would both help you with those things.

What have you got to lose? You need a welder to cut enough from the tank mount. You need a press to bend the bar....or you need a press/torch to bend the end.

For a 150 bucks you can get a harbor freight press...just sayin...that might be your cheapest way out

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
There is a coupon in this months flyer to make it 149.99 (code is 54324174)
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts