I removed the hub bearing, but didn't need to disassemble it.
It just happened!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
I removed the hub bearing, but didn't need to disassemble it.
Did you see this conversation?
Post in thread 'Can I temporarily turn my 99 TJ into a 2WD convertible?'
Sorta, it is actually 2 bearings and 4 races. It is like a hub kit in that there are inner and outer bearings with 1 separate race each and one more in each cone. In a unitized bearing set up, the races are integral to the two halves that press together.
This one is close, not 100% accurate but close enough to see how they do it.
Did you see this conversation?
Post in thread 'Can I temporarily turn my 99 TJ into a 2WD convertible?'
Sorta, it is actually 2 bearings and 4 races. It is like a hub kit in that there are inner and outer bearings with 1 separate race each and one more in each cone. In a unitized bearing set up, the races are integral to the two halves that press together.
This one is close, not 100% accurate but close enough to see how they do it.
I did not. Thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for. You can see why the bearing would walk apart without the stub shaft and nut. And you can see that the nut torque on the stub shaft does not pre-load the bearing.
Grill is removed to install the power steering and transmission coolers. Not difficult to remove, just tedious work.
I’m getting to do the same thing! Picking up a new painted grill this week with a black magic stock cooler setup just ordered.
Coolers are in the grill. Now I just need to put everything back together. The lower passenger side fitting that goes into the transmission cooler is the one Blaine uses. It makes the hose routing on that side much better!
As I peruse the Moab wheeling, I installed the grill, installed a new power steering pressure hose, and reconnected everything. Since the headlight harness was out, that gave me the opportunity to re-tape it and clean up the front-end wiring. All that' left is to run the cooler lines and put the front bumper back on. Next on the list is to get the Rubi Crawler and 241 case in, then do the savvy UA.
Hose routing is complete. Will check for leaks tomorrow, but I'm happy with the way everything came out.
Routing is as follows:
- Transmission hot side, lower transmission line, to right side of radiator
- Radiator, left side, to lower right side of Setrab cooler
- Upper, left side, Setrab cooler to transmission cold return (top transmission line).
- Transmission hot side, lower transmission line, to right side of radiator
- Radiator, left side, to lower right side of Setrab cooler
- Upper, left side, Setrab cooler to transmission cold return (top transmission line).
I need to get a small write up on what was learned from the Derale 13250 power steering cooler and the Setrab SLM420-14 transmission cooler install. This setup is as good as it gets and outside maybe tweaking the hose routing slightly, I'd not change a thing.
I need to finish up the winch wiring but have a 1st world problem. I rebuilt a Warn XD 9000 but have a new Warn XP9.5 I could install.
I need to finish up the winch wiring but have a 1st world problem. I rebuilt a Warn XD 9000 but have a new Warn XP9.5 I could install.
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You do know your sloppy install will mean you just end up with leaks, worn via rubbed hoses, and likely overheated fluid down the road....
Very sharp and clean install! Looking great!
Those of you that are paying attention here, I'll let you determine where this goes. Over the last 12 months I've been looking at the options for a replacement radiator, given the Mopar version is discontinued.
Below is a quick market snapshot of the most dependable 2003 TJ radiators now in RockAuto’s catalog (plus a few heavy-duty all-aluminum choices). These observations are based on multiple installs.
OE‑Fit Favorite
CSF 3244 OE‑Style Radiator
$115.76
RV and Auto Parts
OE Supplier
Denso 221‑9039 Radiator
$171.25
FR SPORT
Heavy Duty
CSF 2578 Copper 3‑Row
$267.99
RadiatorNow + 9 others
Budget OEM
Spectra Premium CU2101
$197.04
FR SPORT
Lowest Cost
FVP / Generic 2‑Row
$88.99
RadiatorNow + 9 others
Full Aluminum
Mishimoto Performance Aluminum
$434.87
JDTRacing.com
3‑Row Budget
GPI Racing 3‑Row Aluminum
$178.00
GPI Racing
2‑Row Budget
Dynamic Perf. 2‑Row Aluminum
$118.99
Dynamic Performance Tuning + 1 others
*RockAuto SKU shows up under Cooling System → Radiator → KOYORAD A2798. Inventory comes and goes quickly, so hit the orange “notify when available” button if it’s greyed out.
Bottom line:
If you want factory-level cooling and long life without shelling out for an all-aluminum unit, grab the Koyorad A2798 the next time you spot it in stock on RockAuto. It’s every bit as trustworthy as Denso and usually a few bucks cheaper.
Need torque-specs, coolant choices, or install tips when you pull the trigger? Just let me know.
Denso 221-9234 vs. Koyorad A2102
(Both are the OE-style plastic-tank/aluminum-core replacements that RockAuto carries for the 1997-2006 TJ/Wrangler)
Bottom line:
For a TJ that spends real time creeping over rocks or idling in summer traffic, the Koyo edges out the Denso thanks to sheer thermal capacity and a lifetime guarantee. If you need a radiator tomorrow and mainly commute or trail-ride in temperate weather, the Denso is an easy, reliable grab.
Below is a quick market snapshot of the most dependable 2003 TJ radiators now in RockAuto’s catalog (plus a few heavy-duty all-aluminum choices). These observations are based on multiple installs.
OE‑Fit Favorite
CSF 3244 OE‑Style Radiator
$115.76
RV and Auto Parts
OE Supplier
Denso 221‑9039 Radiator
$171.25
FR SPORT
Heavy Duty
CSF 2578 Copper 3‑Row
$267.99
RadiatorNow + 9 others
Budget OEM
Spectra Premium CU2101
$197.04
FR SPORT
Lowest Cost
FVP / Generic 2‑Row
$88.99
RadiatorNow + 9 others
Full Aluminum
Mishimoto Performance Aluminum
$434.87
JDTRacing.com
3‑Row Budget
GPI Racing 3‑Row Aluminum
$178.00
GPI Racing
2‑Row Budget
Dynamic Perf. 2‑Row Aluminum
$118.99
Dynamic Performance Tuning + 1 others
How the major choices stack up
| Tier | Why it’s a standout | When to choose it |
|---|---|---|
| Denso 221-9039 | Built by Jeep’s original supplier; spot-on fitment and tank crimp quality; long track record of leak-free service. Bob Is The Oil Guy | You want “as close to Mopar as possible” without paying NOS prices. |
| CSF 3244 | CSF’s OE-style unit uses slightly thicker tubes and extra reinforcement at the tank-core seam; TJ owners consistently report temps identical to the factory part. Wrangler TJ Forum | Ideal daily-driver replacement with a bit more margin for slow trail work. |
| CSF 2578 Copper 3-Row | All-metal soldered core dissipates heat a bit faster at very low airflow and is easy to re-core locally years down the road. | For heavy winching, crawling, or if you’ve already beefed up your charging system (it weighs ~6 lb more). |
| Spectra Premium CU2101 | Good fit, lifetime warranty, and readily available; plastic tanks use thicker gaskets than some budget brands. Bob Is The Oil Guy | Solid mid-price pick if you flush coolant regularly. |
| Value 2-Row (FVP/TYC/GPD) | Lowest up-front cost, decent OE-type cooling, but more variable tank-crimp QC—inspect before installing. | Strict budget builds or a quick flip. |
| Mishimoto / GPI / other full-aluminum units | TIG-welded end tanks eliminate plastic seams; 2- to 3-row cores shrug off repeated heat-soak on long climbs. | Extreme off-road/overlanding, or if you already run an electric fan with ample amperage. Do note thicker cores can inhibit airflow at highway speeds unless the |
Koyorad OE-Replacement (part A2798 / W0133-1775799)
| Fitment | 1997-2006 Wrangler TJ (2.5 L & 4.0 L, auto & manual) |
|---|---|
| Core / tanks | Aluminum core, plastic tanks, down-flow (same layout as factory) |
| Oil cooler | Integrated 12-inch plate cooler (works with OEM quick-connect or flare adapters) |
| Typical RockAuto price* | ≈ $120–$140 (when in stock) RockAuto |
| Alternate source | PartsGeek lists the identical unit at ≈ $205 Parts Geek |
| Why it’s loved | Built in ISO 9001 plants, tight fin density, and a reputation on TJ forums for “zero early failures.” Wrangler TJ Forum |
Where Koyorad slots into the lineup
| Use case | Best pick | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Pure OEM reliability, plug-and-play | Denso 221-9039 or Koyorad A2798 | Both are Tier-1 suppliers to Jeep; all plastic/aluminum just like Mopar but with stronger crimps. |
| Slow-speed rock-crawling / max cooling | CSF 2578 heavy-duty copper 3-row | 30 % more coolant mass; tolerate mud-packed fins. |
| Budget daily driver | Spectra Premium CU2101 | Decent fit, 1-row, ~ $95. |
| Full-aluminum performance | Mishimoto MJ-Jeep-97-06 | Welded tanks, lifetime warranty; stiffer but pricier. |
If you want factory-level cooling and long life without shelling out for an all-aluminum unit, grab the Koyorad A2798 the next time you spot it in stock on RockAuto. It’s every bit as trustworthy as Denso and usually a few bucks cheaper.
Need torque-specs, coolant choices, or install tips when you pull the trigger? Just let me know.
Denso 221-9234 vs. Koyorad A2102
(Both are the OE-style plastic-tank/aluminum-core replacements that RockAuto carries for the 1997-2006 TJ/Wrangler)
| Spec / Feature | Denso 221-9234 | Koyorad A2102 |
|---|---|---|
| Core thickness | 0.63 in (16 mm) — classic single-row “5/8-inch” core Main Website | 1.31 in (33 mm) — oversized 1-row core that almost doubles coolant volume Parts Geek |
| Fin density | 13-14 fins / in (measured, not published) → OEM airflow load | 14-15 fins / in (similar count, but more surface area thanks to thicker tubes) |
| Integrated trans-oil cooler | Plate-style, quick-connects match factory lines (auto-trans models) | Plate-style, hose-barb OR quick-connect (varies by production run); still plug-and-play |
| Tank & crimp design | 6 mm glass-fiber–reinforced tanks; standard narrow crimp gasket | Same tank material plus a wider neoprene gasket and heavier crimp fingers (less seep-over-time complaints on Jeep boards) |
| Weight (dry) | ≈ 17 lb | ≈ 22 lb (the extra aluminum is all in the core) |
| Warranty | 12 months / unlimited miles Denso Products | Limited lifetime to original purchaser CARiD |
| Made in | Indonesia or Taiwan, in DENSO’s ISO-14001 plants | Indonesia or China, in Koyorad’s ISO-9001 plants |
| Typical RockAuto price | $115 – $145 (almost always in stock) | $105 – $130 (often sells out—hit “Notify Me”) |
Practical differences you’ll actually notice
- Cooling head-room
The Koyo’s 33 mm core holds ~0.3 qt more coolant and exposes ~40 % more metal to airflow. In slow off-road crawling—where fan airflow is your only airflow—that margin shows up as a slower climb off idle and quicker recovery once the electric fan kicks on. The Denso meets factory spec but can run 5-10 °F hotter in the same slog - Long-term seep resistance
Koyo moved to a wider tank gasket three generations ago; owner reports of “green crust at the crimps” after 3-4 winters are much rarer than with the current-run Denso (you’ll see plenty of 4- to 12-month seep stories on TJ forums).Wrangler TJ Forum - Availability
Denso wins here—RockAuto, Amazon, even local stores have them sitting on the shelf. Koyo inventories appear in waves; when you see “A2102 — In Stock,” order quickly or plan to wait a few weeks.
So—which one is “top”?
| If your priority is… | Pick | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum cooling margin for rock-crawling, desert heat, or towing + “buy once, cry once” longevity | Koyorad A2102 | Thicker core, beefier crimps, lifetime warranty outweigh the occasional stock hunt. |
| True factory spec, lowest hassle to source, mostly pavement miles | Denso 221-9234 | Still a Tier-1 OE brand, usually arrives next-day, and cools just fine at road speeds. |
For a TJ that spends real time creeping over rocks or idling in summer traffic, the Koyo edges out the Denso thanks to sheer thermal capacity and a lifetime guarantee. If you need a radiator tomorrow and mainly commute or trail-ride in temperate weather, the Denso is an easy, reliable grab.
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So what does all this mean? Over the last several months I've installed more than a dozen radiators, covering multiple solutions. Of those, the Koyo rises to the top for an OEM replacement. Here are a few reasons why.
Mishimoto makes some nice radiators.
A lot of the V-8 swap guys swear by the AlloyWorks aluminum radiator.
https://www.alloyworksplus.com/coll...78=tj&filter.p.custom_tags.1697708417187=4.0l
You can go 3 row or 4 row with them. And stay with a stock fan or go electric.
A lot of the V-8 swap guys swear by the AlloyWorks aluminum radiator.
https://www.alloyworksplus.com/coll...78=tj&filter.p.custom_tags.1697708417187=4.0l
You can go 3 row or 4 row with them. And stay with a stock fan or go electric.
You bought over a dozen radiators and tried them? Wow! the koyo is on rock auto?
@Chris This is an excellent write up addressing a common question/issue. Maybe put in a resource thread?
Thanks for this! Also thanks to @Irun for putting such effort into finding a suitable replacement for the OEM radiator.
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