It just happened!

[tworley]

Awesome resource and glad I caught it!

Ordered mine before it either a) goes out of stock or b) price goes up. Im nowhere near ready for my auto install, but this will be good to have for when the time comes! Thanks @Irun !!

 

[Irun]

You bought over a dozen radiators and tried them? Wow! the koyo is on rock auto?

I've bought about 1/2 dozen myself. The others were bought by friends and local Jeep club members. TJs are becoming popular again in my area and there's a surprisingly large population of people who know little or nothing about working on Jeeps. I help them learn by instructing them on the installs. In some cases, they buy a radiator before asking. For me, the cooling system is the first thing I recommend people address, along with fluids, brakes, and steering.

Yes, the Koyo is on Rock Auto, but I've noticed their stock levels are inconsistent on these. I just bought another Koyo to have on the parts shelf, along with a Mopar water pump. Given good products for our platform are shrinking, I like having spares. Some think this is crazy, but it has worked well for me thus far. My wife does have a different perspective though!

 

[Irun]

Thanks to help from @SkylinesSuck the Savvy gas tank skid went in with zero drama. It's great to hang out with Chris and having an extra set of hands made the task easy. I've done a couple by myself and that is not fun!

 

[SkylinesSuck]

I very much enjoyed hanging out and it's oddly refreshing working on a Jeep that isn't trying to blind me with random mud and rocks into my eyes I'm looking forward to the 241+TT!

 

[Longwhitejeep]

Let me know if you want a hand with the 241 and TT! Happy to make the trip up to NOVA

 

[Irun]

Put some miles on the Jeep today to check the power steering and transmission coolers for leaks. I found no leaks but did find one hose rubbing on the steering shaft. Repositioned that and zip tied it out of the way.

Since I've run B&M transmission coolers for many years, I know what those temperatures are like throughout the year. Today's temperature here was around 74 degrees and the transmission temperature would normally be around 108 to 110 degrees at highway speeds and between 130 to 140 degrees in traffic.

With the Setrab cooler the temperature at highway speed was between 104 to 106 degrees, so there wasn't a huge difference there. However, in stop and go traffic the difference was major. Where I would have seen 140 degrees maximum before, I only saw a maximum temperature 119 degrees. This tells me the Setrab cooler really shines and slow speeds, which is exactly what we want!

 

[Irun]

Something stupid simple. I split my ARB compressor so I can either run the OX air locker, or air up tires. Now I won't forget which is which, with the locker switch!

FWIW, turning the air compressor on is switched inside the cabin.

 

[Wildman]

Put some miles on the Jeep today to check the power steering and transmission coolers for leaks. I found no leaks but did find one hose rubbing on the steering shaft. Repositioned that and zip tied it out of the way.

Since I've run B&M transmission coolers for many years, I know what those temperatures are like throughout the year. Today's temperature here was around 74 degrees and the transmission temperature would normally be around 108 to 110 degrees at highway speeds and between 130 to 140 degrees in traffic.

With the Setrab cooler the temperature at highway speed was between 104 to 106 degrees, so there wasn't a huge difference there. However, in stop and go traffic the difference was major. Where I would have seen 140 degrees maximum before, I only saw a maximum temperature 119 degrees. This tells me the Setrab cooler really shines and slow speeds, which is exactly what we want!

View attachment 618666

Aren't those temperatures a little low? I was always under the impression you wanted your transmission to operate around 170-200*? Not sure what if anything having it run cooler than that does or if it's bad.

Elaboration:

• Optimal Range:
  The ideal operating temperature for most transmissions is between 175°F and 200°F (80°C to 93°C).
  
  • Hard Shifting: Cold transmission fluid can become too thick and cause rough or delayed shifts.
    
    
  • Increased Wear: Cold temperatures can also increase wear on internal components.
    
    
  • Moisture Issues: Low temperatures can allow moisture to condense in the system and potentially cause rust or corrosion.

 

[Wildman]

A little more on the subject.

Yes, driving an automatic transmission at temperatures consistently below 175 degrees Fahrenheit (79.4 degrees Celsius) can potentially lead to issues, primarily due to the impact on transmission fluid viscosity and lubrication.

Here's why:

• Increased Viscosity:
  Cold temperatures make transmission fluid thicker, reducing its ability to effectively lubricate the various components within the transmission.
• Reduced Lubrication:
  This thicker fluid can't flow as easily, leading to less lubrication and increased wear on gears, bearings, and other internal parts.
• Shifting Problems:
  Cold fluid can also contribute to hard shifts, delayed shifts, and even a delay in engaging overdrive.
• Component Contraction:
  Cold temperatures cause parts to contract, potentially loosening components, increasing the risk of leaks, and accelerating wear.
  

While a cold transmission is generally less of a concern than an overheated one, it's still important to consider:

• Ideal Temperature:
  .Opens in new tab
  The optimal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is generally between 175 and 225 degrees Fahrenheit (79.4 and 107.2 degrees Celsius).
  
  
• Fluid Breakdown:
  .Opens in new tab
  Prolonged operation at temperatures above 225 degrees Fahrenheit can cause the fluid to break down, leading to premature wear and failure.

 

[Irun]

I've got more than 300k miles on The 42rle, running coolers, and have never seen any issues. I've noticed zero difference in shifts, or the fliuid color/viscosity at fluid changes.

My guess is the ATF+4 fluid, full synthetic, has something to do with that. If it's like with the B&M cooler, when wheeling in 90 degree plus temperatures, the transmission temperature will hit 180 degrees.

 

[Wildman]

I've got more than 300k miles on The 42rle, running coolers, and have never seen any issues. I've noticed zero difference in shifts, or the fliuid color/viscosity at fluid changes.

My guess is the ATF+4 fluid, full synthetic, has something to do with that.

That could very well be it. I'm sure a lot of this information is based on older non-synthetic ATF fluid. Now that I've got my sensor moved and can hopefully monitor my temperatures better in my transmission I'll see where it's sitting.

I know in my truck & in my motorhome they both seem to run around 160-190* depending on how hard I'm working them. Considering I'm 19K lbs in the motorhome I consider those temperatures really good.

 

[Irun]

My goal for this weekend is to get the RubiCrawler, 241, and Savvy skid in. Getting the 231 out by myself was no problem, but getting the 241 in will require a helper. Thankfully, @SkylinesSuck has agreed to swing by tomorrow and give me a hand.

Off topic, one of the things I've grown to greatly appreciate about this forum is the quality of people. I've met several locally through the forum and each of them are people that I'm thrilled to call friends. Also, I've met numerous over the phone and each of them share the same qualities, i.e. good people who are willing to lend a virtual hand. Bottom line, we're lucky to have @Chris provide us a fantastic place for good people to gather around, and learn from.

Back on topic, since there has been lots of discussion about the RubiCrawler's utility, it solves a very specific problem for me. Where I wheel has a very wide range of terrain and obstacles that changes back and forth, in a relatively short time period. One minute you're climbing or descending steep hills with sizable rocks, then you're on hills with mud and clay, the next you're in the flatlands filled with coal-based swamp water. What the RubiCrawler allows me to do, mated with the 241OR, is seamlessly transition back and forth between 2.72:1 and 4:1. This is immensely helpful navigating the terrain changes.

 

[Wildman]

I'd have to argue that you can't have steep hills in VA or W VA or PA.... You'd need mountains for that... And you've only got molehills out east....

Having the choice between 3 gearing options is a game changer IMO.
The gears in my STaK's is close to being perfect.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

My goal for this weekend is to get the RubiCrawler, 241, and Savvy skid in. Getting the 231 out by myself was no problem, but getting the 241 in will require a helper. Thankfully, @SkylinesSuck has agreed to swing by tomorrow and give me a hand.

Off topic, one of the things I've grown to greatly appreciate about this forum is the quality of people. I've met several locally through the forum and each of them are people that I'm thrilled to call friends. Also, I've met numerous over the phone and each of them share the same qualities, i.e. good people who are willing to lend a virtual hand. Bottom line, we're lucky to have @Chris provide us a fantastic place for good people to gather around, and learn from.

Back on topic, since there has been lots of discussion about the RubiCrawler's utility, it solves a very specific problem for me. Where I wheel has a very wide range of terrain and obstacles that changes back and forth, in a relatively short time period. One minute you're climbing or descending steep hills with sizable rocks, then you're on hills with mud and clay, the next you're in the flatlands filled with coal-based swamp water. What the RubiCrawler allows me to do, mated with the 241OR, is seamlessly transition back and forth between 2.72:1 and 4:1. This is immensely helpful navigating the terrain changes.

View attachment 619842

View attachment 619843

Glad you got it sorted! I may at Rausch June 25 weekend if you want to wheel. Be there with some old Toyota friends.

 

[Irun]

@Wildman, now you're making fun of our hills back East.

 

[Wildman]

@Wildman, now you're making fun of our hills back East.

I have to now and then. But I still look forward to coming to visit and play in your hills.

 

[Irun]

Glad you got it sorted! I may at Rausch June 25 weekend if you want to wheel. Be there with some old Toyota friends.

I'll be there the weekend before, with my Bronco buddies. Not sure if the Jeep will be done, but I'll ride with one of the if it isn't. We can definitely schedule something over the summer though. Maybe get a small group together!

 

[FarFire70]

I'll be there the weekend before, with my Bronco buddies. Not sure if the Jeep will be done, but I'll ride with one of the if it isn't. We can definitely schedule something over the summer though. Maybe get a small group together!

If you're putting something together - I'd like to throw my hat in as interested, without trying to be too pushy....

I'm working to get mine back up and ready in June so something this summer at Rausch would be great. Coming from the MD area.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

Just got off work. I'll shoot you a text in the morning to see if you are up for some early AM wrenching. I'd really like to get you to a point you can drive yourself around Rausch Creek before I fly off to the motherland!

 

[Irun]

RubiCrawler is in and all that needs to be done is connecting and adjusting the cables. Also installed the Savvy skid crossmember and test fit the belly skid. Sitting on 3" RockJock springs, with a 1" aluminum spacer up front, I'm at 18 3/4" clearance at the skid. I've thought about going to 4" springs, but that gets expensive. Reason being, the domino effect is outboarding the rear shocks, a mid-arm, and tuned shocks. For now, the Jeep is setup with almost perfectly balanced 10" travel shocks, provides a very comfortable ride, and meets my trail needs, for now.