Looking great!
Nah - I didn't think 'sexy' in my mind when I was looking over those shifters... Must have been someone else...
It just happened!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
Looking great!
Nah - I didn't think 'sexy' in my mind when I was looking over those shifters... Must have been someone else...
RubiCrawler cable is connected and adjusted. Dorman 4wd switch (600-506) swapped with stock 241 switch, and the GM pigtail (GM#12126453) for the switch is wired. Also, installed the 5/16-18 extruded U nuts on the Savvy crossmember. This makes removing the skid much easier, because you don't have to reach over and hold the nuts.
The last item for the weekend was to install Blaine's transmission pan, with the bung for the temp sensor welded in. It's a very nice addition that fixed the adapter I stuck in the drain plug hole on the Dorman pan.
FWIW, the bottom picture is the pile of tools pulled to remove the 241shift lever. The factory puts a strong thread locking compound on a bolt that requires 20 ft lbs torque. It was not fun to remove!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H99MYM?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9MZIO?tag=wranglerorg-20
All that's left is to install the 241, adjust the cable, install the cover over the shifter bracket, then finish the console install.
The last item for the weekend was to install Blaine's transmission pan, with the bung for the temp sensor welded in. It's a very nice addition that fixed the adapter I stuck in the drain plug hole on the Dorman pan.
FWIW, the bottom picture is the pile of tools pulled to remove the 241shift lever. The factory puts a strong thread locking compound on a bolt that requires 20 ft lbs torque. It was not fun to remove!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H99MYM?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9MZIO?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040CVQGG?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/42rle-transmission-panAll that's left is to install the 241, adjust the cable, install the cover over the shifter bracket, then finish the console install.
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Looking good Rich. Having installed my Atlas cable shifters recently, I can appreciate the quality of the AA Rubicrawler shifters. They build great quality products that just flat work. I'm excited to see the finished product!
Thanks. I've got some pretty heavy personal stuff going on now and the Jeep has been my coping mechanism. Chris, @SkylinesSuck, came over yesterday evening and helped me get the 241-case in. All that's left now is the install and adjust the transfer case cable, then measure for driveshafts .
Nice, look forward to hearing your thoughts on the RubiCrawler & Rubicon t-case combo since we all know just how meticulous you can be about your evaluation of things. Also want to hear about your first time doing the double LOW crawl... 10.88 should be FUN...
The Koyorad A2102 is also listed for my 97? Isn't there a difference between early and late radiators?
What difference would there be? Don't they all mount the same?
Sorry to hear about the personal stuff, but glad to know the Jeep is the coping mechanism. I know that for me, half the fun and satisfaction is in the garage. It's all problem solving and critical thinking. Keep up the great work and let's get out on the trails for some more therapy!
Imagine answer to my question is in the build thread but I've got all the pieces to start my 42RLE swap just waiting on buddy and his shop/lift to get it going. I looked at doing rubicrawler as well with the existing Rubicon 4:1 case and was advised unless I like snapping stuff the low/low would be minimally useful. Curious to hear your thoughts on this and what axles your running, as since I'm still running factory Rubi 44's, though they are built chromos, etc I'd still run the risk of snapping things if it got bound up in that low/low gearing the rubicrawler gives you.
incredibily Clean work btw, very impressive!
incredibily Clean work btw, very impressive!
The use of the Low Low isn't the reason for the RubiCrawler. It's the 2.72 low range. This allows you to have better wheel speed for mud/snow/sand but then to also have the Rubi t-case 4:1 for technical stuff. while not as low as some would like for the rocks it works. As long as you're mindful of when you're using the Low Low I don't see it as being anymore of an issue than other situations.
I've got 3.05 or 5.44 for my low ranges.
The 10.88:1 (Low/Low with the 241) is indeed useless. It will absolutely rip the ears off the yoke and snap axles. For the benefit, in my case, see the last paragraph here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/it-just-happened.55698/post-1740397
I'm running 5.38 geared Dana 44s front and rear.
Thanks what I figured was curious to the rationale. With 5.38’s are you running big brake kit or hydro boost? Heard with 4:1 and that gearing crawl right thru the brakes?? Debating throwing 5.38’s on when I do auto swap but opens up swapping Rubi lockers while everything is out with ARBs, typical Pandora’s box of scope creep when you go down a rabbit hole.
The RubiCrawler cables and shifters are adjusted, and everything works like it should. The shield that that covers the bottom of the shifter bracket needs to be installed and I need to go over every nut and bolt to make sure I've not missed something. After that, I'll be able to measure and order driveshafts. For this one, I'm a little disappointed with myself. When I did the rear, I meant to swap the rear LJ yoke (1310) with a Rubicon (1330) one. I get that the 1310 is strong enough, but making the upgrade would have been smart. 
And yes, I wouldn't run a 44 with 37" tires, due to the "C".
| Strength Metric | 1310 | 1330 |
|---|---|---|
| Continuous Torque Rating | ~1,600–1,800 lb-ft | ~2,000–2,200 lb-ft |
| Breaking (ultimate) Torque | ~3,200–3,600 lb-ft | ~4,000–4,500 lb-ft |
| Use Case | Up to ~35" tires | Up to ~37"+ tires, lockers, V8 swaps |
And yes, I wouldn't run a 44 with 37" tires, due to the "C".
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It isn't exactly high speed,and you can pop it into neutral without even hitting the button on the shifter
Now you know you're gunna want to try it out at least once just to see what it's like... OK I might be projecting here....
Without the driveshafts, ran the transmission and transfer case through the gears. Let it run for 15 minutes with no strange noises or issues. Now the driveshafts can be ordered. Also, super happy my 4wd light works, when engaged.
Thank you....it's a labor of love, and a coping mechanism!!
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