It just happened!

[Irun]

Also learned something new. I've always wondered what the yellow and red dots were for on the tires, so I looked it up:

"The yellow and red dots on tire sidewalls serve specific purposes:

• Yellow Dots: Indicate the lightest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the valve stem, which is typically the heaviest point on the wheel.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=a3e0...dGljbGUvcmVkLW9yLXllbGxvdy1kb3QtdGlyZS8&ntb=1
• Red Dots: Mark the flattest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the highest point of the wheel to minimize vibration and ensure a smoother ride.
  
  These markings help in properly balancing the tires during installation, enhancing performance and safety.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=0c48...YW5kLXllbGxvdy1kb3RzLW9uLW5ldy10aXJlcy8&ntb=1 "

 

[Jamison C]

Falken Wildpeak AT4W 35x11.50R17 tires showed up today. Having run 3 sets of AT3W tires, one thing I noticed immediately is how much heavier the 4 is compared to the 3. I'm guessing this has a lot to do with the 3-ply sidewall, which is much tougher than the 2-plys that were typical on the AT3W. The new tires supposedly measure out at a true 35", but we'll have to see once they are mounted. That will happen once the balance beads show up, scheduled for tomorrow.

View attachment 608035

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I’ve been running these tires since last summer. They are extremely quiet and smooth. They grip well too. I haven’t used them in mud but in the rain and snow I’ve had zero issues. Love that they’re a 3-ply on a C.

 

[bobthetj03]

Also learned something new. I've always wondered what the yellow and red dots were for on the tires, so I looked it up:

"The yellow and red dots on tire sidewalls serve specific purposes:

• Yellow Dots: Indicate the lightest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the valve stem, which is typically the heaviest point on the wheel.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=a3e0...dGljbGUvcmVkLW9yLXllbGxvdy1kb3QtdGlyZS8&ntb=1
• Red Dots: Mark the flattest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the highest point of the wheel to minimize vibration and ensure a smoother ride.
  
  These markings help in properly balancing the tires during installation, enhancing performance and safety.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=0c48...YW5kLXllbGxvdy1kb3RzLW9uLW5ldy10aXJlcy8&ntb=1 "

Good looking tire. Toyo's been doing the dot thing for some time now. Really helps with balancing.

 

[Irun]

It's tedious work to get these mounted. Two are done, using 12 oz Eco balance beads. The combination is heavier than anything I've run before. There's no doubt a big brake kit will be needed.

 

[Irun]

On the plus side, they measure out at a true 35" tire.

 

[Irun]

3 down, and some am I. Getting old sucks!

 

[Woodrow]

Also learned something new. I've always wondered what the yellow and red dots were for on the tires, so I looked it up:

"The yellow and red dots on tire sidewalls serve specific purposes:

• Yellow Dots: Indicate the lightest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the valve stem, which is typically the heaviest point on the wheel.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=a3e0...dGljbGUvcmVkLW9yLXllbGxvdy1kb3QtdGlyZS8&ntb=1
• Red Dots: Mark the flattest point on the tire. This point should be aligned with the highest point of the wheel to minimize vibration and ensure a smoother ride.
  
  These markings help in properly balancing the tires during installation, enhancing performance and safety.
  https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=0c48...YW5kLXllbGxvdy1kb3RzLW9uLW5ldy10aXJlcy8&ntb=1 "

The flat spot (red dot) seems to be an issue with many larger tires. I believe this this what road force “balancing” is really measuring. You can have a perfect dynamic balance but still have significant vibes if the tire isn’t round. It doesn’t seem like there is too much to be done about it except picking the roundest tires you can get.That is not easily done when you mail order tires. According to the tire shops around me, the spec for 35” tires is around <30#. Anything over 20 is noticeable to me. I’ve had 35s road force over 65# which were absolutely unusable.

 

[Sj's TJ]

3 down, and some am I. Getting old sucks!

View attachment 608400

Don't feel bad Rich, they are pain at any age. They also don't seem to be like most things where the first one takes forever and then the rest are easy. Each one is a pain and it doesn't get any easier/faster.

 

[JMT]

67’ish pounds is still pretty light for a 35! My Mickey’s are 65. And with Raceline beadlocks they were 105lb, so pretty much right on the mark with yours being 107lb.

I’m sure you’re not following the instructions on mounting. If you do it takes forever. After getting the wheel centered and seated then get four bolts started on four sides like points of compass. Then get all the others started. Run the first four down with an impact till the ring touches the wheel. Then do the others. Finally torque them. No use going in circles to torque them since every time you get one torqued the one next to it needs to be torque again till the rim touches the wheel. If you’re already doing this then great. Not trying to patronize.

 

[Irun]

Either I got lucky or the balance beads work. Took it out for a test drive, up to 70 mph, with zero vibration or anything abnormal. The ride was smooth and enjoyable. Braking wasn't horrible but a BBK would improve the stopping, especially in panic stops.

I'll need to cycle the suspension now, to check the front for clearance. The shock travel is about as good as it gets, at 5" up travel and 5" down.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

Love the new wheels. They suit it perfectly.

 

[Frank M]

Either I got lucky or the balance beads work. Took it out for a test drive, up to 70 mph, with zero vibration or anything abnormal. The ride was smooth and enjoyable. Braking wasn't horrible but a BBK would improve the stopping, especially in panic stops.

I'll need to cycle the suspension now, to check the front for clearance. The shock travel is about as good as it gets, at 5" up travel and 5" down.

View attachment 608576

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View attachment 608578

Did you need spacers with these wheels?

 

[Irun]

Did you need spacers with these wheels?

I suspected that with the 4.25 BS it would rub the Swayloc. At full lock it barely kisses it, so I'm adding a 1/2 spacer on the front only. Unfortunately, that means longer wheel studs. As is always the case, one thing leads to another.

Surprisingly, it's very difficult to find a wheel I like with the correct BS. The addition of the 1/2 spacer will put me at 3.75", which will work perfectly. Even with buying the spacers and longer wheel studs, I'm still under $300 per wheel for beadlocks.

 

[Woodrow]

I suspected that with the 4.25 BS it would rub the Swayloc. At full lock it barely kisses it, so I'm adding a 1/2 spacer on the front only. Unfortunately, that means longer wheel studs. As is always the case, one thing leads to another.

Surprisingly, it's very difficult to find a wheel I like with the correct BS. The addition of the 1/2 spacer will put me at 3.75", which will work perfectly. Even with buying the spacers and longer wheel studs, I'm still under $300 per wheel for beadlocks.

The unit bearings do seem to come with short studs. How hard are they to press in and out?

 

[oldjeepman]

Damn that looks good..

 

[Irun]

How hard are they to press in and out?

The easiest way I've found is to pull the hub bearing and use a press. While you can get the shorter wheel studs in with the hub bearing in place, and without a press, it can be a pain. Especially if you're doing all ten. A tool like this helps, without the need for a press.

https://www.amazon.com/SoCiMa-Installer-Automotive-Light-Duty-22800-US/dp/B09PNGG1Z1/ref=sr_1_9?crid=27CE1KXCGERHG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RIpx6dL3ktOM2P-TBDRhtqsxkN0II9e16O-VPBZO8ELMDCGkWC0KIvJYg8mlUMLV8N2vy9An3Udh1iJS1PHU7bg8kJvqZuC-WtV_rRuANazWukfDuASFVIFb0ANItuZQo4TLzjS6eYj0RAecewij1T-l5Wn_LqH90zs5iEhLnk-8MM0zvv51b097RkCqNow0dK9JdxusKDCrPKdG4goe5NGO9uJdLlVyJ7qTiq9hRrs.VA_N92kju3U6LQlGNdFHWvb6dXaZf5JuYJeLQDZPMAY&dib_tag=se&keywords=wheel+stud+installer+tool&qid=1744656882&sprefix=wheel+stud+,aps,112&sr=8-9&th=1

 

[Irun]

Love the new wheels. They suit it perfectly.

The wife says they look like "chrome bling".

 

[bobthetj03]

The wife says they look like "chrome bling".

Sounds like something My wife would say if I went with ooh shiney. Lol!

 

[Irun]

With the new wheel 4.25" backspace, I was getting rubbing, at full lock, on the lower control arm and Swayloc. Since I knew this would be a problem, I ordered a set of 3" wheel studs and a 1/2 spacer when the wheels were ordered.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...1596235352517&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2890b95770

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CG4TQHGJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

With the install tool, the replacement wheel studs went in with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/GZZTORES-Ins...-Light-Duty/dp/B0DHL4HMQ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

At 4" BS, with the 35x11.50R17 tire, there is no more contact. The longer studs, even with the spacer, also gave me more threads on the lug nuts. I even found an old set of wheel center caps that where a perfect fit. All is good now!

 

[Woodrow]

With the new wheel 4.25" backspace, I was getting rubbing, at full lock, on the lower control arm and Swayloc. Since I knew this would be a problem, I ordered a set of 3" wheel studs and a 1/2 spacer when the wheels were ordered.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...1596235352517&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2890b95770

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CG4TQHGJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

With the install tool, the replacement wheel studs went in with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/GZZTORES-Ins...-Light-Duty/dp/B0DHL4HMQ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

At 4" BS, with the 35x11.50R17 tire, there is no more contact. The longer studs, even with the spacer, also gave me more threads on the lug nuts. I even found an old set of wheel center caps that where a perfect fit. All is good now!

View attachment 611786

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View attachment 611789

Did you disassemble the unit bearings to change the studs? I’m curious how they work. Specifically, what type of bearings are in there? Conical rollers, flat rollers, ball? I know the stub shaft and nut are needed to keep them together, but unsure if the nut torque provides pre-load (e.g. conical) or just holds the bearings and the shaft in there.