Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Help Me Choose Please!

I'm betting mine is just the stock isolator. I'll get some pics and update. Thanks!

I found this for the AC issue.
"It is actually fairly common and the a/c is indeed your most likely culprit. The problem is that the drain tube from the a/c condensor only sticks through the firewall like an inch so when water drips out, it runs back in the hole in the firewall and down to your floor. The fix is fairly simple."
 
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1. With a 2" suspension lift and no body lift a transfer case drop wouldn't normally be needed.
2.You feel a bump when you hit a bump? Shouldn't you? 😁
3. 210 temp especially when crawling with AC running is right where it should be. The stock cooling system with Mopar parts is the best going, don't mess with it
4. There is an AC condensate drain, a round tube , poking through the firewall in the engine compartment, down at the bottom to the right of the battery and left of the engine block. Could be plugged.

The bump feels like something moving/loose but the steering does not feel loose...makes perfect sense right??

I read about the drain tube...it seemed to be dripping normally. The entire fan box under the dash was dripping/sweating. I'll check the drain. What's the best way to make sure it's clear?

Thanks!
 
I found this for the AC issue.
"It is actually fairly common and the a/c is indeed your most likely culprit. The problem is that the drain tube from the a/c condensor only sticks through the firewall like an inch so when water drips out, it runs back in the hole in the firewall and down to your floor. The fix is fairly simple."

Had the same issue with my F150 but the firewall would be wet. I could not feel any water on the tub at all. It was like the box was sweating and dripping. Was not sure if this was normal or not for the TJ. I will double check the drain though and see about extending it. I noticed it drips onto the rails which is prob not the best scenario anyways.

Thanks!
 
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Had the same issue with my F150 but the firewall would be wet. I could not feel any water on the tub at all. It was like the box was sweating and dripping. Was not sure if this was normal or not for the TJ. I will double check the drain though and see about extending it. I noticed it drips onto the rails which is prob not the best scenario anyways.

Thanks!

Also, make sure your wife doesn't just have sweaty feet and never told you about it. ;)
 
I never noticed when I was...never mind. :oops:

Please use protection. I Googled your screen name. :unsure:
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Tough to tell, but it looks like you have Rough Country springs with Rancho shocks. Also, I think I see a track bar relocation bracket on your rear axle. If that's the case, you really need to make sure you extend your rear bump stops to accommodate, otherwise you risk damage if you bottom out over a bump. Some have cut the harness to the fuel pump, others have cut the actual fuel line. Finally, your jounce bumpers are missing, front & rear. You'll want to replace those with OEM style replacement.
 
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Tough to tell, but it looks like you have Rough Country springs with Rancho shocks. Also, I think I see a track bar relocation bracket on your rear axle. If that's the case, you really need to make sure you extend your rear bump stops to accommodate, otherwise you risk damage if you bottom out over a bump. Some have cut the harness to the fuel pump, others have cut the actual fuel line. Finally, your jounce bumpers are missing, front & rear. You'll want to replace those with OEM style replacement.

How can you tell on the rear track bar relocation? My LJ has a 2” spacer and I am curious if the rear track bar has a relocation bracket, problem is I am not sure the original mounting location. And I haven’t spent too much time investigating it either. Trying to decided if I want to replace the system with a suspension lift, not big on a spacer lift. They did replace the shocks with proper ones.
 
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How can you tell on the rear track bar relocation? My LJ has a 2” spacer and I am curious if the rear track bar has a relocation bracket, problem is I am not sure the original mounting location. And I haven’t spent too much time investigating it either. Trying to decided if I want to replace the system with a suspension lift, not big on a spacer lift. They did replace the shocks with proper ones.

You can tell by looking at it, it will be obvious. If there's a bracket bolted to the factory mount that is welded onto the rear axle, and then the bar is attached to the bracket, you have one. If there is not an extension added to the factory mount, you don't. Post a photo of where your track bar bolts to the rear axle (it's on the driver side).

The only reason the OP's was difficult to discern is because the photos didn't show the mount clearly.
 
Tough to tell, but it looks like you have Rough Country springs with Rancho shocks. Also, I think I see a track bar relocation bracket on your rear axle. If that's the case, you really need to make sure you extend your rear bump stops to accommodate, otherwise you risk damage if you bottom out over a bump. Some have cut the harness to the fuel pump, others have cut the actual fuel line. Finally, your jounce bumpers are missing, front & rear. You'll want to replace those with OEM style replacement.

I'll try to get some better pictures, but I believe you are correct on the springs and shocks.

Had no idea about the rear track bar bracket. I will get a better picture of this also. How do you extend the rear bump stops?

Are the jounce bumpers and bump stops the same thing? I noticed the rubber stops (jounce bumpers??) missing from inside the springs.

Thanks for the info!
 
I'll try to get some better pictures, but I believe you are correct on the springs and shocks.

Had no idea about the rear track bar bracket. I will get a better picture of this also. How do you extend the rear bump stops?

Are the jounce bumpers and bump stops the same thing? I noticed the rubber stops (jounce bumpers??) missing from inside the springs.

Thanks for the info!

The bump stop is when metal contacts metal limiting your axle from further motion. The jounce bumper is the little elastomeric squishy piece that goes inside the bump stop cup. It slows down the axle at the end of compression to make hitting the hard limit less jarring.

To extend the rear bump stop, you install an appropriate sized spacer between the cup and the mount that it is attached to. Lots of good info in the how-to section of this forum.
 
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The bump stop is when metal contacts metal limiting your axle from further motion. The jounce bumper is the little elastomeric squishy piece that goes inside the bump stop cup. It slows down the axle at the end of compression to make hitting the hard limit less jarring.

To extend the rear bump stop, you install an appropriate sized spacer between the cup and the mount that it is attached to. Lots of good info in the how-to section of this forum.
The bump stop is when metal contacts metal limiting your axle from further motion. The jounce bumper is the little elastomeric squishy piece that goes inside the bump stop cup. It slows down the axle at the end of compression to make hitting the hard limit less jarring.

To extend the rear bump stop, you install an appropriate sized spacer between the cup and the mount that it is attached to. Lots of good info in the how-to section of this forum.

Thanks for the info. I’ll do some more poking and photographing this weekend. Don’t plan any major flexing, but you never know!

Edit: all the poking, photographing, and flexing mentioned above is referring to the Jeep…
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator