Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

SKIS (SKIM) Sentry Key Programming

2003 Jeep TJ Sahara, 4.0, Manual, mostly original.

Reviving this thread again. Sorry. I had a very similar experience to @Nickgsjeep 's friend. My TJ was about two blocks from it's prior location. I still can't figure out how they even got that far.
On ours, they popped the t-case in neutral and pushed it down the block.
My doors look exactly the same. Unfortunately, the thieves smashed by ignition cylinder with a rock. Busted the cylinder, the part of the steering column that holds the cylinder, and bent over the SKIM antenna.

I can start the Jeep for 2-3 seconds as expected when the SKIS activates, and the dash icon illuminates. I tried straightening out the antenna - the wires don't appear broken, but this doesn't help. @mrblaine suggested in one post that the PCM might need a reboot. Could that be the problem? Can I reboot by disconnecting the battery?
The PCM is not bricked if it will still start and die. When it is bricked, nothing happens when you turn the key. You'll figure that out if you start it enough times. Don't do that. The antenna is broken or most likely. That is the only thing that would explain what is going on after it bent unless the wires are cut or the module is unplugged.
I'm guessing I need to replace the steering column. I found one with a SKIM attached and two keys, but I haven't bought it yet. Assuming my SKIM is broken beyond repair, can I pair the SKIM on the replacement column to my PCM? If not, what are my options?

Thanks for any help! First post BTW. I've spent many hours researching and this thread is the best with the absolute best contributors. Thanks!
The new SKIM may not pair unless you can get the PIN code from the original vehicle. I can clarify that a bit better but if you don't know the PIN and VIN from the original vehicle, it may be a challenge.
 
On ours, they popped the t-case in neutral and pushed it down the block.

The PCM is not bricked if it will still start and die. When it is bricked, nothing happens when you turn the key. You'll figure that out if you start it enough times. Don't do that. The antenna is broken or most likely. That is the only thing that would explain what is going on after it bent unless the wires are cut or the module is unplugged.

The new SKIM may not pair unless you can get the PIN code from the original vehicle. I can clarify that a bit better but if you don't know the PIN and VIN from the original vehicle, it may be a challenge.
Thanks. I will see if it’s possible to get the VIN from the used parts supplier. I doubt I they know the PIN though. Is it true that a locksmith or dealer could retrieve the PIN based on the VIN, if I can convince them I legitimately have the SKIM?
 
Thanks. I will see if it’s possible to get the VIN from the used parts supplier. I doubt I they know the PIN though. Is it true that a locksmith or dealer could retrieve the PIN based on the VIN, if I can convince them I legitimately have the SKIM?

We only get the PIN from the dealer. I do not know how anyone else does it.
 
Is there an easy way to confirm whether or not I have SKIM in my TJ?

The PO only had one very worn original key. I went to the dealer to get a 2nd key cut from the VIN, they told me that it would need programmed and charged me 150 for the key and 285 (1hr of labor) to program.

So thinking now that I can program keys myself I bought another Mopar blank key off ebay and had it cut by my hardware store. Went to program it following the instructions in this thread this morning, and couldn't get it into customer program mode.

So I went for it and started the jeep with the new, unprogrammed key and it ran fine, did not die after 2 seconds as I expected from the original post here.

Thus I don't believe I have SKIM and the dealer lied to me and never actually programmed the new key.
 
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Is there an easy way to confirm whether or not I have SKIM in my TJ?

The PO only had one very worn original key. I went to the dealer to get a 2nd key cut from the VIN, they told me that it would need programmed and charged me 150 for the key and 285c(1hr of labor) to program.

So thinking now that I can program keys myself I bought another Mopar blank key off ebay and had it cut by my hardware store. Went to program it following the instructions in this thread this morning, and couldn't get it into customer program mode.

So I went for it and started the jeep with the new, unprogrammed key and it ran fine, did not die after 2 seconds as I expected from the original post here.

Thus I don't believe I have SKIM and the dealer lied to me and never actually programmed the new key.

Easiest way to to start it with a non programmed key and or pull the lower half of the steering column and see if there is a SKIM module installed and plugged in.
 
Easiest way to to start it with a non programmed key and or pull the lower half of the steering column and see if there is a SKIM module installed and plugged in.

Right. If I start it with an unprogrammed key and it runs for more than 2 seconds, there's no SKIM right? If there was I assume it would shut down and the idiot light in the dash would light?

I can see the place in my instrument cluster where that light is supposed to be. I have never, ever seen it light up. Even with my new, unprogrammed key.

I just want to have my ducks in a row when I go to fight the damn dealer.
 
Right. If I start it with an unprogrammed key and it runs for more than 2 seconds, there's no SKIM right?
If it stays running, then something is wrong with the SKIM system if there is actually one installed.
If there was I assume it would shut down and the idiot light in the dash would light?
The SKIM light would illuminate if it was a correctly operating SKIM system and it was started with a non SKIM key method.
I can see the place in my instrument cluster where that light is supposed to be. I have never, ever seen it light up. Even with my new, unprogrammed key.
It should illuminat at key on just like all the rest do to show they have functional lamps.
I just want to have my ducks in a row when I go to fight the damn dealer.
I'd start by removing the lower clamshell cover on the steering column and check to see if a SKIM module is even present. That is irrefutable evidence that they failed to do their job they were paid to do.

The rest is able to be proven, but far more difficult. We ALWAYS test the system with a non SKIM key method to make sure it works as designed and the engine shuts off when it is supposed to.

In case you are wondering why I use the term "non SKIM key" method is due to it being difficult to check the system with a programmed key. We swap in a blank key cylinder so we can use the ignition lock cylinder to start the rig and test the keys before we cut them. We also test the SKIM system by doing that with an unprogrammed key. It can also be done with a screwdriver.
 
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If it stays running, then something is wrong with the SKIM system if there is actually one installed.

The SKIM light would illuminate if it was a correctly operating SKIM system and it was started with a non SKIM key method.

It should illuminat at key on just like all the rest do to show they have functional lamps.

I'd start by removing the lower clamshell cover on the steering column and check to see if a SKIM module is even present. That is irrefutable evidence that they failed to do their job they were paid to do.

The rest is able to be proven, but far more difficult. We ALWAYS test the system with a non SKIM key method to make sure it works as designed and the engine shuts off when it is supposed to.

In case you are wondering why I use the term "non SKIM key" method is due to it being difficult to check the system with a programmed key. We swap in a blank key cylinder so we can use the ignition lock cylinder to start the rig and test the keys before we cut them. We also test the SKIM system by doing that with an unprogrammed key. It can also be done with a screwdriver.

Just to cover the bases, I assume if a SKIM module was ever installed and paired with the PCM, if you pull the SKIM module it's not starting, correct?

I assume it's not there (I will of course, check). But I want to make sure if I roll in there with my lower dashboard pulled to show them it's not there, they can't come back at me with "well how do we know you didn't remove it?"
 
Just to cover the bases, I assume if a SKIM module was ever installed and paired with the PCM, if you pull the SKIM module it's not starting, correct?
No, it does not have to be paired which implies that if you installed one and then didn't do something to pair it, then it would be non functional. If you install a SKIM model, plug the connector to it and then turn the ignition key to the ON or Run position which powers up the vehicle, that automatically enables the SKIM function.
I assume it's not there (I will of course, check). But I want to make sure if I roll in there with my lower dashboard pulled to show them it's not there, they can't come back at me with "well how do we know you didn't remove it?"
You are not pulling the lower part of the dash, just the lower half of the steering column bezel. That exposes the ignition lock cylinder and the SKIM module which has an antenna ring that fits around the lock cylinder key entry to pick up the signal.
 
No, it does not have to be paired which implies that if you installed one and then didn't do something to pair it, then it would be non functional. If you install a SKIM model, plug the connector to it and then turn the ignition key to the ON or Run position which powers up the vehicle, that automatically enables the SKIM function.
Ok, I think I get it. So if a SKIM module was ever plugged in at any time into the harness and the ignition turned to Run/ON, that enables SKIM in the PCM, and means that from that point forward, you can only start the vehicle with the SKIM module installed and a programmed key, correct? Thus making it impossible from there on out to ever start the vehicle without a working SKIM module and programmed key (and thus impossible for the dealer to claim that I removed the SKIM module before I showed up to complain about them charging me to program a key that didn't need it).

You are not pulling the lower part of the dash, just the lower half of the steering column bezel. That exposes the ignition lock cylinder and the SKIM module which has an antenna ring that fits around the lock cylinder key entry to pick up the signal.
Ahh got it. Yeah found the other thread that talks about retrofitting SKIM into a model that didn't come with it, I see what to look for now.
 
Ok, I think I get it. So if a SKIM module was ever plugged in at any time into the harness and the ignition turned to Run/ON, that enables SKIM in the PCM, and means that from that point forward, you can only start the vehicle with the SKIM module installed and a programmed key, correct? Thus making it impossible from there on out to ever start the vehicle without a working SKIM module and programmed key (and thus impossible for the dealer to claim that I removed the SKIM module before I showed up to complain about them charging me to program a key that didn't need it).
I'd just ask them to show me how they tested it.
Ahh got it. Yeah found the other thread that talks about retrofitting SKIM into a model that didn't come with it, I see what to look for now.
 
Another back from the dead post!
I just found a SKIM enabled TJ where the owner lost all the chip keys but still has a non-skim cut key. Obviously the jeep runs for a couple seconds and then dies. He's selling it reasonably cheap.

So, if I buy it what are my options?
1) send the PCM to @Wranglerfix and have skim removed, and pull the antnna from around the ignition cylinder?
2) See if the locksmith who programmed my Sahara keys with just one SKIS key can do it with none?
3) Anything else? @mrblaine?
 
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Another back from the dead post!
I just found a SKIM enabled TJ where the owner lost all the chip keys but still has a non-skim cut key. Obviously the jeep runs for a couple seconds and then dies. He's selling it reasonably cheap.

So, if I buy it what are my options?
1) send the PCM to @Wranglerfix and have skim removed, and pull the antnna from around the ignition cylinder?
You can do that but you don't need to pull the SKIM module at the steering column, just unplug it.
2) See if the locksmith who programmed my Sahara keys with just one SKIS key can do it with none?
Doubtful unless he has a way to scan the module and pair the new keys to it and then the PCM.
3) Anything else? @mrblaine?
Wranglerfix is the easy answer.
 
Another back from the dead post!
I just found a SKIM enabled TJ where the owner lost all the chip keys but still has a non-skim cut key. Obviously the jeep runs for a couple seconds and then dies. He's selling it reasonably cheap.
If you wanted to be a dick, get the part number from the PCM and snag one from Mark without the SKIM enabled. Install it in the rig, unplug the SKIM module and drive it home.
 
If you wanted to be a dick, get the part number from the PCM and snag one from Mark without the SKIM enabled. Install it in the rig, unplug the SKIM module and drive it home.

Thank you @mrblaine and @Wranglerfix. I have a trailer so if the guy ever gets back to me I'd grab it that way. Haven't heard back yet, however.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts