Recommended D-rings?

I wouldn't want to be that guy on the trail that has to go get all their gear out when they get stuck. I think it's courteous to other people to have your recovery gear ready to go. There are about a million ways to keep a shackle from making noise, just pick one, even zip ties work.
If you put a pair of gloves, a shackle, winch remote, and a soft shackle in the space between the seat and the rocker, you don't get to look silly showing off your bumper jewelry. You can reach it from the seat, it is very accessible, and works perfectly.
 
It takes about 1 minute for me to grab my d-ring from my recovery backpack and install it. I keep it in the most accessible spot in the backpack, and that backpack is right against my tailgate. I usually don't worry too much about spending small amounts of time to do things the right way, especially on the trail. Having them slap around all day, get covered in mud, and bounce off rocks could end up costing time if they get damaged.
When one plays a bit more on the trails, one will discover that the driver does not always have the luxury of being able to release the foot brake, get out of the driver's seat, or do much other that pray we get him hooked up quickly to prevent him from rolling. That is very common where we play so the winch control, shackles, and a strap with some way to use it as an anchor needs to be instantly accessible and useable. It is so common that I spend a few minutes at the start of the trails explaining it and getting everyone set up to be as safe as possible.
 
When one plays a bit more on the trails, one will discover that the driver does not always have the luxury of being able to release the foot brake, get out of the driver's seat, or do much other that pray we get him hooked up quickly to prevent him from rolling. That is very common where we play so the winch control, shackles, and a strap with some way to use it as an anchor needs to be instantly accessible and useable. It is so common that I spend a few minutes at the start of the trails explaining it and getting everyone set up to be as safe as possible.

If I’m running trails that hard, I sure hope to be with people such as yourself who I trust to hook me up. At that point recovery seems to be more of a team effort.

In actuality, I’m probably unqualified to talk about running hard shackles on the bumper. I exclusively use soft shackles for my recoveries unless there is a forced reason not to. I’m actually planning on smoothing out my recovery points to accept soft shackles tonight (new bumper, haven’t used the mounts yet). I wouldn’t want to run soft shackles on the outside of my bumper. Maybe I’ll start putting them near me once I get to the trail.
 
If I’m running trails that hard, I sure hope to be with people such as yourself who I trust to hook me up. At that point recovery seems to be more of a team effort.

In actuality, I’m probably unqualified to talk about running hard shackles on the bumper. I exclusively use soft shackles for my recoveries unless there is a forced reason not to. I’m actually planning on smoothing out my recovery points to accept soft shackles tonight (new bumper, haven’t used the mounts yet). I wouldn’t want to run soft shackles on the outside of my bumper. Maybe I’ll start putting them near me once I get to the trail.
We've had more than a few times where the driver was on the brake hard, two guys were holding the rig up, and a couple were scrambling for an anchor point, gear, and the remote for the winch.

I haven't used a metal shackle since I got my first soft shackle other than to do stupid hook ups to civilian vehicles with no recovery points.
 
When one plays a bit more on the trails, one will discover that the driver does not always have the luxury of being able to release the foot brake, get out of the driver's seat, or do much other that pray we get him hooked up quickly to prevent him from rolling. That is very common where we play so the winch control, shackles, and a strap with some way to use it as an anchor needs to be instantly accessible and useable. It is so common that I spend a few minutes at the start of the trails explaining it and getting everyone set up to be as safe as possible.

That's a good point. I've been in a spot where I couldn't back up any and couldn't make forward progress up a rock either. My passenger grabbed my winch control, tree/ rock strap out of my recovery bag and hooked me up. I'll probably look into a smaller bag to keep a single shackle, gloves, and winch controller in next to the drivers seat. If nothing else I could hand it to someone else on the trail and let them hook it up if need be.

When I bought my jeep it had shackles hanging everywhere, one in the receiver hitch and two on the bumper. As I started taking it into the mountains I thought I had a lot of noisy suspension components. I took them all off one day and couldn't believe how much quieter it was. It made such a difference that if I didn't know what the change was I would have told you it rode better too. Every bump was previously followed by a clang or bang. Now if there is a bang I've likely just dropped the back bumper on a rock.

I currently leave one shackle on the front bumper with the winch line snugged up to it. Just taught enough to not let it rattle around.

As an aside there is definitely something to be said about NVH and its affect on perceived ride quality.
 
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We've had more than a few times where the driver was on the brake hard, two guys were holding the rig up, and a couple were scrambling for an anchor point, gear, and the remote for the winch.

I haven't used a metal shackle since I got my first soft shackle other than to do stupid hook ups to civilian vehicles with no recovery points.


Would a soft shackle be a bad idea on a recovery point such as this (holes aren't rounded off much more than deburred):

_a20JKV9P8-mhau-OWg388oTmDFOeUZuru8=w1859-h1046-no.jpg


Edit: I suppose I could just wrap it between the two tubes on the main bar. It couldn't slip in any direction that way.
 
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OK, on the topic of soft shackles, you would still need to connect it to a hard shackle on someone's bumper, for instance, if you were winching them out. I guess it comes down to if you have a thimble or a hook. A hook would just clip on their hard shackle and a thimble would need the soft shackle to connect.
Which brings up an interesting point. I know there is a thread on this forum that poo poos thimbles because (like in the case above) there is an extra connection (extra possible break point) that needs to occur.
 
OK, on the topic of soft shackles, you would still need to connect it to a hard shackle on someone's bumper, for instance, if you were winching them out. I guess it comes down to if you have a thimble or a hook. A hook would just clip on their hard shackle and a thimble would need the soft shackle to connect.
Which brings up an interesting point. I know there is a thread on this forum that poo poos thimbles because (like in the case above) there is an extra connection (extra possible break point) that needs to occur.

Technically the thimble has omitted the hook on the end of the winch cable so you are only adding in the connection that would already be there with another cable design such as a steel cable and hook.
 
Not really. Since the thimble eliminates the hook it requires another connection point. Hook to bow shackle is...
winch rope/hook/bow shackle/bumper

Thimble is:
winch rope/thimble/soft shackle/bow shackle/bumper.

So there is an extra connection involved unless you can connect the soft shackle directly to the bumper.

Disclaimer: I'm not trying to have a debate with anyone on this topic. I am simply trying to learn best practices regarding these items. I'm still a noob with only 1.5 years under my belt.
 
Not really. Since the thimble eliminates the hook it requires another connection point. Hook to bow shackle is...
winch rope/hook/bow shackle/bumper

Thimble is:
winch rope/thimble/soft shackle/bow shackle/bumper.

So there is an extra connection involved unless you can connect the soft shackle directly to the bumper.

Disclaimer: I'm not trying to have a debate with anyone on this topic. I am simply trying to learn best practices regarding these items. I'm still a noob with only 1.5 years under my belt.

I’m modifying my bumper to take a soft shackle tonight. Just going to smooth off the sharp edges. Should be able to go directly through the hole then with no problems.

Technically, a thimble to hook to shackle to bumper has the same amount of connections as a thimble to soft shackle to a hard shackle to the bumper. The hook needs to connect to a thimble anyways. Either way, eliminating as many connections as possible is good practice. I’m modifying my bumper so I can take the hard shackle out of the equation.
 
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Safety thimble replaces this though which is part of your winch cable (though you haven't omitted a splice of some sort at the end of the cable, you've just changed its type)

super_zoom.jpg


So really you are replacing the hook with a soft shackle and not adding another point of connection.

These don't omit a point of connection and merely replace the hook.
ProLink-with-tube-thimble-and-fairlead.jpg




ch-Rope-with-Safety-Thimble-e1431469738391-500x338.jpg


Safety thimble goes into the rope. Factor 55 attaches to the rope.
 
Looking at the radius on the inside of the safety thimble and seeing how small it is makes me curious about the soft shackles and the need to radius their mounting points.

I guess if you aren't pulling a rope across a square edge it doesn't need as large of a radius as say a hawse fairlead.
 
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Safety thimble replaces this though which is part of your winch cable (though you haven't omitted a splice of some sort at the end of the cable, you've just changed its type)

View attachment 106561

So really you are replacing the hook with a soft shackle and not adding another point of connection.

These don't omit a point of connection and merely replace the hook. View attachment 106564



View attachment 106565

Safety thimble goes into the rope. Factor 55 attaches to the rope.

OK, it just clicked. I forgot about that portion of the hook, the pin, where it connects to the metal sleeve you showed in the first picture. So the hook and soft shackle serve the same purpose and equate for the same amount of connection points. I get it now.
It would appear then that the thimble and soft shackle are the best/safest option.
 
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I use soft shackles whenever possible. They are amazing and safer(when used properly). I do have 1 shackle on my rear receiver, I leave that one on in the snow when we are single track breaking trail. Since most guys I wheel with run hooks on the winch line it makes it easy for a light pull backwards when high centered in the snow. Think about how you are rigging and use as few connections as possible and only items that are in good condition. If I’m tugging on a rig I use only my rope products.
 
Logging chains are heavy crappy steel. The best buy is Grade 70 transport chain from any commercial truck supply store. Or even Harbour Fright, High Tensile Strength = Light Weight. Coated = Clean. One slip hook, one grab hook.

View attachment 106567
Not a fan of chain. Way too many better options out there these days with much lower danger factor.