Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Outboard rear shocks project

You are letting something other than the shock dictate travel. The shock travel will or should be the same.
Wouldn’t cycling the axle and setting bumpstops as high as possible without any other interference done first? Shock mounts would then be set to locate shock with desired travel ratios?
When you say no bumps is that because longer up travels will never hit them with any force anyway?
 
Wouldn’t cycling the axle and setting bumpstops as high as possible without any other interference done first? Shock mounts would then be set to locate shock with desired travel ratios?
When you say no bumps is that because longer up travels will never hit them with any force anyway?
I need to define hard bump when I do any suspension work. Hard bump for us is the point at which nothing can travel higher or damage will occur. That is the absolute limit parts can move upward without something bad happening. Since we use a squishable bump stop, I need to use something else to define that limit so I use the shock at full compression with the stipulation that the little bumper on the shaft may get blown apart and not be there. Hard bump is the shock at full compression at full stuff. That is what I build around and that limit is dictated by the moving parts that can run into non moving parts.
 
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Will the bump stop cups bend if you hit hard enough or does the shocks slow the movement down enough to keep from bending them?
 
Will the bump stop cups bend if you hit hard enough or does the shocks slow the movement down enough to keep from bending them?

If you’re jumping or riding your bumpstop over woops then maybe without the proper shock valving. In prerunning we use hydraulic bump stops to soften that. Not really a concern in most application with jeeps.
 
I notice most are using the same style outboatding mount. What about notching the frame, then boxing it back in of course and using shock hoop style mounting? Is it just an extra unneeded step with more welding?
 
I notice most are using the same style outboatding mount. What about notching the frame, then boxing it back in of course and using shock hoop style mounting? Is it just an extra unneeded step with more welding?
Not really more welding and it doesn't matter that much how you get the top of the shock where it needs to be. Lots of ways to do it. I need a way that is familiar, works every time and isn't painful to accomplish. I use what I have found that accomplishes that with minimal fuss. But, I use hoops for coil overs since I need the extra depth.
 
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As far as bump stops vs shock compressed length. Something like this? 2D8CD6D8-D500-466E-B5BB-FEA9402A2FC6.jpeg

Letting the bump do its job in a severe bottoming out instance. But letting the axle roll onto the shock while crawling over rocks?
 
As far as bump stops vs shock compressed length. Something like this? View attachment 85739

Letting the bump do its job in a severe bottoming out instance. But letting the axle roll onto the shock while crawling over rocks?
Yes, like that. Watch the relationship under full articulation and post up what happens. You shock is leaned back further than I typically wind up with and I leave the mount longer than the frame by about 1/2" so I can weld around where it hangs down below the frame. Not sure why you didn't flatten the spring perches though?
 
Could you install a coilover shock/spring on a stock LJ Dana 44 rear axle with this outboarding mod?
In searching the net I can't seem to find a difference between the two mods. If that's is the case why wouldn't you just install coilovers, where you can dial in your rear suspension so much more.
Is there a huge downside to coilovers on the rear and just outboarded shocks on the front?
 
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The job of cutting in the brackets is nearly the same. The problem is space. On mine, I simply don't have the room to have the shock body plus a coil wrapped around it. A wider axle to get the tires out of the way and make a bit more room for the CO would make things much easier.

Then if the goal is something longer than 12", the vertical space runs out pretty quickly and then you are cutting into the tub.
 
The job of cutting in the brackets is nearly the same. The problem is space. On mine, I simply don't have the room to have the shock body plus a coil wrapped around it. A wider axle to get the tires out of the way and make a bit more room for the CO would make things much easier.

Then if the goal is something longer than 12", the vertical space runs out pretty quickly and then you are cutting into the tub.
I understand a wider axle would make things easier, but in the rear is it mandatory? Could you not relocate the brake calipers to the front and if needed install 1" wheel spacers. Not looking for excessive travel, just adjustability & rebuildability.
 
I understand a wider axle would make things easier, but in the rear is it mandatory? Could you not relocate the brake calipers to the front and if needed install 1" wheel spacers. Not looking for excessive travel, just adjustability & rebuildability.

Mine is already what you describe. Coilovers aren't happening without a fight.
 
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The job of cutting in the brackets is nearly the same. The problem is space. On mine, I simply don't have the room to have the shock body plus a coil wrapped around it. A wider axle to get the tires out of the way and make a bit more room for the CO would make things much easier.

Then if the goal is something longer than 12", the vertical space runs out pretty quickly and then you are cutting into the tub.
You think you don't have room. I put 12" Fox 2.0 on a TJ Unlimited with stock Rubicon axles and not terrible offset wheels. He is a member on here if you want to verify how nicely it rides. @L J
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator