How a cooling system works: an engineers perspective

freedom_in_4low

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Every summer we get tons of cooling system threads, which often get polluted with less-than-perfectly-correct information and advice so I took some time today to type up a bunch of stuff that goes through my head when I'm thinking about fixing or improving a cooling system.

I'm a mechanical engineer approaching 19 years of experience in the HVACR industry with time spent in heat exchanger design, controls, system (chiller) design, and more recently directing a sales and service/commissioning team where all the most troublesome and confusing performance issues bubble up to me.

The goal here is to share some of the equations behind how heat exchanger performance is modeled, in a way that someone who isn't an engineer or a calculus expert but has at least some exposure to basic algebra can apply to their thought process.

I don't want to talk down to people but at the same time I don't want to talk over people's heads and with such a wide range of backgrounds here of people most of which I've never met, both are bound to happen. I'm happy to answer any clarifying questions that come up.

Let’s start from the beginning.

The internal combustion engine is not a highly efficient device. They obviously vary and the manufacturers have found ways to make them better over the years, but it’s pretty safe to estimate that about 30% of the energy that comes out of the combustion of gasoline will end up available at the crankshaft. The other 70% will be converted to heat – some through friction, such as the rings sliding up and down in the cylinders and the lifters following the cam under valve spring pressure, and of course crank and camshaft journals rotating within their bearings. The biggest part of it however, goes out as heat that the engine can’t use mechanically and instead gets absorbed into the cylinder walls, piston crown, combustion chamber roof, and exhaust port before getting blown out to the catalyst and on.

The heat that gets absorbed by those components before it escapes is what we’re concerned with in a discussion of the cooling system. If it were absorbed and not carried away, the materials comprising the block and head would simply heat up until they melted, or more likely until stresses from uneven heating and thermal expansion caused them to fracture or expand to a size that is too large for the space they occupied and became mechanically joined with another component that they were intended to move against. Instead, engines are given means to rid themselves of that heat and maintain a temperature safe for their materials and components.

Equation 1

This expression quantifies the heat transfer rate in a heat exchanger.

1752533720772.png


U=overall heat transfer coefficient (subscript indicates radiator or engine). This is a quantifier of the capabilities of the heat exchanger and the fluid being used, on a per-unit-area basis and independent of temperature difference. It is unique to a given heat exchanger and a given set of fluid properties and within it is implied the convective or film coefficient h, an expression of the heat transfer through the boundary layer. The boundary layer is a layer of fluid which is not moving as quickly due to friction against the wall surface and ends up approaching the surface temperature, which adds a thermal resistance between the surface and the fluid stream, like a thin layer of insulation. The thickness of this boundary layer is a function of the viscosity of the fluid and the velocity at which it is moving, up to a point. Once the inertial forces (from velocity) are large enough that the viscous forces are negligible (thermal-fluids nerds will recognize this ratio as the Reynolds Number), the flow is considered fully turbulent and the boundary layer thickness hits an effective minimum where increasing velocity no longer meaningfully impacts heat transfer. Heat transfer in laminar flow sucks because the boundary layer is THICC, so no one designs for velocities that low in something they want to transfer heat, but it may occur in specific situations like in a radiator when the thermostat is closed.

A=surface area. This seems fairly self explanatory as the surface area of the heat exchanger. It’s pretty simple when you have a contained heat exchanger like a plate or shell-in-tube but gets complicated to calculate when you have enhanced surfaces like fins, let alone very deep ones like on an air cooled engine so for the purposes of this discussion it’s best thought of conceptually and in the context of the impacts of increasing or reducing it.

ΔTlm = logarithmic mean temperature difference. T1 and T2 represent the temperature difference between the hot and cold fluids at each end of the heat exchanger. Like Area, it’s pretty straightforward for heat exchangers that fit neatly into a counterflow or parallel flow box, but an engine isn’t exactly that, so again we can just think about this as the temperature difference between the combustion chamber temperature and the ambient air.
1752533771109.png


And importantly;

Qout = Qin for steady state conditions, meaning, if the heat input (proportional to engine load) is held constant, then the other variables will adjust themselves as needed to ensure that the heat rejected to the environment will equal the heat input.

The result of all this math is that for a given engine load, we have to reject a particular amount of heat to keep the engine happy, and that there are a small number of easily understood parameters that make that happen.
 
The first heat exchanger in the chain of an engine cooling system is the engine itself – transferring the waste heat from the Otto cycle process to the outside of the engine. For an air cooled engine that’s basically where the story ends – since the heat transfer properties of air are what they are, they stack a ton of fin surface onto it and tell you to keep moving. It’s effective, but as power levels increase, the heat that needs to be rejected increases accordingly, so something else needs to increase. U is not going to change much once you’re moving unless you have some way to change the properties of air. The heat transfer from a fin is proportional to the hyperbolic tangent of its length which is the nerdiest possible way of saying that there’s a point where its long enough and adding length doesn’t do anything for you. That just leaves increasing the operating temperature until the loss in life expectancy and reliability becomes intolerable.

For water cooled engine, less area is needed because a cubic inch of water can hold over 4,000 times as much heat as air for the same rise in temperature. The area gets put into a water jacket and water pumped through it – usually in a loop with a water-to-air heat exchanger unfortunately known as a radiator but if water is available in large amounts, it can be drawn for one pass through and returned to the reservoir from whence it came (see: boats).

The radiator can be modeled by the same equation used before, with some tweaks.

1752533843383.png


Now the ΔT isn’t based on the combustion chamber vs the fluid, it’s the fluid vs the ambient air. The radiator is considered a cross-flow arrangement so we can simply use the average of the entering (ambient) and leaving air temperatures to get close enough for the purposes of the illustration.
1752533860815.png

1752533882030.png


Qout = Qin still applies, so if something changes on the water side of the equation, something changes on the air side to even it out.
 
Now, to pull it all together. Qout = Qin doesn’t just apply to the heat exchangers individually, it applies to the whole system…which means we can take the individual models above and put them together!

1752533967590.png


Now it’s apparent how both sides work together. For example if you come upon a hill or decide you want to go faster:

  1. Engine load increased
  2. Engine ΔTlm increases by increasing the iron getting hotter
  3. Coolant picks up more heat from the iron and ECT increases
  4. Radiator ΔTlm increases due to increase ECT vs ambient
Or, maybe you’re cruising along and a VERY(!) sudden cold front strikes
  1. Air temperature hitting radiator decreases, increasing radiator ΔTlm
  2. Radiator outlet coolant temperature falls and enters engine
  3. Engine load has not increased, so ECT falls but not as much as the radiator outlet temp (maintains same ΔTlm)
  4. Radiator ΔTlm is currently greater than engine ΔTlm , so the temperature declione will continue until ECT starts closing thermostat.
You may have noticed by this point that FLOW rate has not been represented in ANY of the equations offered so far. Partly that’s because once you have enough of it to get that boundary layer nice and thin, it doesn’t impact the overall rate of heat transfer, however…it IS represented in the temperature differences.

Below is an expression of the heat transferred into or out of a flowing fluid.
1752534016273.png


Q = heat transfer rate (yes, the same Q we’ve covered this entire time)
V = volumetric flow rate
Ρ = density
C = specific heat capacity of the fluid. This is how much energy (BTU) it takes to change the temperature of one pound of the fluid by 1 degree.
Tout - Tin = the temperature difference across the heat exchanger for one of the two streams – often referred to as “range”.

What this one tells us is that for a given rate of heat transfer, increasing or decreasing the flow must also decrease or increase the temperature range. So, if you decrease the flow through the cooling system such as with a collapsed lower radiator hose, the radiator inlet and outlet coolant temperatures will get farther apart and if you increase the flow by removing that restriction, they will become closer to one another.
 
Using Heat Exchanger Design Principles to Troubleshoot Cooling System Performance

Now it’s time to go back through some of these parameters and tie them to real world situations so that one can think through a cooling system issue in an educated and methodical way.

  • A (area)
    • ECT has to rise to maintain ΔTlm, but the range doesn't have to grow so the radiator outlet temp rises with it.
    • Mud, cottonwood, and other debris block air through your radiator and decrease the effective surface area.
    • A thermostat stuck closed means you're trying to put your Qin out through your heater core. Because of the dramatically smaller Area, you'd have to have a massive ΔTlm to balance Qin and Qout. Conversely, if your thermostat is stuck open and it's cold outside, your Qin will be way too small for what the radiator is capable of and the engine won't be able to warm up because it balances with a ΔTlm that dictates a much lower ECT.
    • Regions of the water jacket or radiator that are filled with air or steam are not effective for heat transfer, so air pockets from a poorly burped cooling system present as reductions in area, and if you've got a radiator cap that isn't holding pressure, steam pockets can quickly compound the issue and leave you with blown head gaskets or cracked heads or blocks. Even a perfectly healthy engine can get close to boiling if unpressurized. Air and steam can rapidly increase in temperature so if you see surprisingly rapid changes in your ECT, your ECT sensor could be coming in and out of air or steam pockets.
    • Cheap (most) aftermarket radiators skimp on tube count, reducing the primary surface area of the heat exchanger and requiring a larger ΔTlm, presenting as an increased ECT. Fin density is secondary surface area but it is also frequently reduced below OE specifications. Fin thickness isn’t directly measured as surface area but it does play a role in the performance of the fin.
    • Many aftermarket radiators claim increased performance over stock – Area is the only truly effective way of doing this, but it takes more than just depth! If they skimp on the fin density or pitch (usually expressed in fins per inch), fin thickness, or tube count then there may not be any actual net increase in surface area.
  • U (overall heat transfer coefficient)
    • Looks very similar to reduced Area in terms of range and ΔTlm
    • Corroded coolant passages present a thin layer of poor conductivity, basically insulation. In the radiator it will be obvious because the ECT will have to climb to achieve the ΔTlm necessary to reject the heat. In the water jacket it may not be apparent initially as the iron will need to pull to a higher temperature to reject the heat to the coolant, but I'll come back to this in the flow rate section.
    • There’s not much to be done to improve this meaningfully. Alternative materials like copper would seem to help, but the tube wall thickness is already so small that the extra conductivity doesn’t make a sizeable impact, and the construction methods common for copper end up trading off some surface area and turbulence in the tubes. Reducing the antifreeze percentage seems like a logical option, but at the tradeoff of partially losing the impact of the corrosion inhibitor package and freeze protection. Its specific heat is a bit lower than water but it’s more dense, so that mostly washes out and the viscosity change is small and only likely to be a factor at idle.
  • V (flow rate)
    • This shows up as a high ECT because the range is spreading out to maintain ΔTlm but if you had a radiator outlet coolant temp sensor, you would actually see that go DOWN instead of UP like it does for reduced A and U.
    • Obvious one would be a collapsed or kinked lower radiator hose. Buy quality hoses and if you see a high ECT, check the hose right after you make sure the thermostat is opening.
    • As corrosion begins to shrink the cross section of the smaller passages and roughens the surfaces of all of them, it will present a larger frictional loss to the water pump, reducing flow and widening the range. A corroded water jacket can present as much as 60% higher frictional losses than a clean one, and frictional losses are proportional to the square of flow, so it will be most apparent on the highway when you're running 3000+rpm.
    • Steel water pump impellers are less effective when they corrode and lose material. Not much of a concern with plastic, but the clearance between the impeller blades and the water pump housing is important, and gets big as material is lost.
    • At low speeds, you depend on the cooling fan to get V on the air side. If very little air is moving, the average of the inlet and outlet air that I described before will be higher, and the ECT will have to get higher to get the ΔTlm. Fan clutch needs to be in good working order.
    • Grill inserts may not kill a perfectly well running TJ in Vermont, but it's not doing you any favors by reducing your margin. I wouldn't touch these if you're in a climate that sees 90F or higher.
    • Fan swaps - there are some mechanical fan swaps out there but nothing that provides enough airflow to meaningfully impact the ΔTlm. I've considered some just to make less noise.
    • On the other end, you can definitely find aftermarket fans that provide enough less air to impact it...basically any off-the-shelf electric fan is not going to keep up with the stock fan. The stock fan is belt driven so it can pull a few horsepower without the driver ever noticing...electric fans require heavy wiring and are a drain on the charging system at over 60A per horsepower. Some have had positive experiences with OE fans from high horsepower applications like V8 Camaros. They move more air, pull more amps, and are much more costly than what you'll get from a retailer. There can be advantages to an electric fan setup but don't do it thinking you'll improve cooling performance.
    • There is a segment of the aftermarket that pushes the idea that cooling system performance can be improved by increasing flow. While it is true if you don’t have enough (such as due to corroded passages or water pump impeller), once you have enough, it’s enough. Complicating this argument is the fact that installing such a water pump may actually result in measurably reduced ECT, leading the purchaser to believe things have improved. However what is actually happening is that the range is shrinking – the upper and lower temperatures are pulling closer together, but maintaining the same ΔTlm while the upper temperature decreases requires that the temperature at the radiator outlet actually increased. Again, it may be that the ECT looks better, but what’s actually happened is an increase in the gap between the indicator (the ECT) and what we actually care about (the temperature of the engine).
  • T (temperature)
    • The refrigerant coming off the AC condenser is HOT, 140F is not at all extraordinary. If you live in a humid climate it's even worse because the evaporator is taking on double or more the heat load to condense the humidity out of the air. If you happen (like me) to live in the central US that seems to get the worst combo of heat over 100F and humidity, do your Jeep a favor and put the windows on if you're going to use the AC, and put it on Max/Recirc so it gets the benefit of cooling air that's already in the cabin. I admit being guilty of having run the AC in 106F with no windows just to get that occasional wisp of cool air on my wrists, but the ECT would get into the 220s when I did it. Also don't overcharge your AC, because that will drive the refrigerant temp in the condenser even higher, as will noncondensibles in the system (purge the manifold/lines with refrigerant before you charge) or clogged orifice, etc.
 
    • Grill inserts may not kill a perfectly well running TJ in Vermont, but it's not doing you any favors by reducing your margin. I wouldn't touch these if you're in a climate that sees 90F or higher.

Thank You!! This is the perfect time for me to bring up my experience with grill inserts which I only removed this month. I didn't expect it to make a difference after I read a lot of threads about it but I was floored by the difference it made! I can now use my AC all the time without going into the high teens! I was reluctant to bring it up due to a lot of naysayers but as they say the proof is in the pudding. Here is the story:



I was thinking about my grill inserts and wondering if they might be restricting air flow. I did some research and although I found a couple people saying that they did restrict air flow, the overwhelming majority said they didn't. I read through one long thread where everyone was coming up with theory as why they don't matter and most people were saying they have inserts but no problems.

Anyway I removed my center one just to see how much work it would be and they are held in with double stick tape a real mess to clean up, plus they do offer some protection from bigger flying critters and rocks. So I ordered some 1/4" double stick tape planning to re-install that center insert when it arrived.

Meanwhile, I noticed right away it seemed to be running cooler with just one insert removed! So the next day I removed them all and I've now been testing for 2 days, here are my results (measured with Torque Pro) Temps over 100F.

Before the inserts were removed:
In city driving with AC on my temps would gradually get higher as I kept stopping at red lights, sometimes going into the high teens like 217F. I would shut my compressor off to help and I also tried to raise my RPMs at the lights to cool it down, but it was very little help and when I started moving the temps would stay hot unless I could get a good couple miles in, only to repeat the heat cycle at the next red light. My driving temps seemed to be fluctuating between 200-214 depending on movement.

At a drive up window or just idling in the driveway with AC on I could easily see 224F. High idling didn't seem to help much, if at all, shutting the AC off would help a little but not much. Once moving temps would slowly drop as long as I could get in a couple good miles before having to stop again.

After inserts were removed:
Driving in city traffic with AC on I noticed right away the temps were staying between 195 and 204. I also noticed when sitting still the temps didn't rise as fast, and at long red lights only went to 214 once and more like 208-210 the rest of the time. I also never shut the compressor off, I let it run the entire time which I wasn't doing before, I was shutting it off until I was up to speed again. With all the compressor off time it wasn't always very comfortable in the cabin either.

I went to Sonic where they take a long time and left the AC on the whole time. The temp went to 217 at which time I brought the idle to 1200 and within 30-45 seconds the temp started to drop, and after about 2 min it was down to 204 with the AC still running! This never, ever happened before.

Finally just now I let it idle in the driveway, AC on and outside temp 105, full sun. It went to 224 after about 10 min then I backed it out of the drive and started down the street and in just a few hundred feet it was down to 217 and by the time I went 1/2 mile and got onto a major street I was already down to 204, and that includes a 25 MPH road and 3 stop signs first!

So it can still heat soak when idling but the big difference is in the recovery time, it was nowhere near that fast before and it would not go as cold. I firmly believe the inserts were restricting the ram air effect while driving and reducing flow at idle, since I can now see a huge cooling effect by raising the idle to 1200 which didn't happen before. I can honestly say I have no more cooling issues. I think a lot of guys who claim no restriction with the inserts just don't have to put up with the temps we do. A lot of them said if the inserts made a difference you have another problem that makes your cooling system borderline. I am confident my cooling system is as good as it can get for factory.

My cooling system facts:
Engine is fresh and block is clean, running the Chrysler coolant.
Water pump is fresh, Motorcraft
Radiator 2 years old, Mopar
Robert Shaw 195 thermostat 2 years old
Recent Hayden fan clutch which I tested with a hand held tachometer and verified full lockup
Factory fan



grill.jpg
No grill inserts.jpg
 
forgot to add emissivity for allowing heat to transfer from the radiator...

Trying not to dump too much on you guys too quickly (too late) but in a situation with forced convection and relatively small differences in (absolute) temperature the radiation portion is often neglected. I would definitely consider it when choosing materials with line of sight to exhaust components.
 
I have a B.S. in physics, and I only ever dropped one class in college: Thermo

Thankfully I got a real job before I had to take graduate thermo.
 
I have a B.S. in physics, and I only ever dropped one class in college: Thermo

Thankfully I got a real job before I had to take graduate thermo.

If I remember the story of your username correctly, you have seen some of what goes into determining the film coefficient, h. There are PhDs that basically spend their entire postgraduate education just on that.

It's all a bunch of dimensionless quantities like Reynolds, Nusselt, Grashof, Prandtl and Rayleigh numbers multiplied together with constants and noninteger exponents experimentally derived based on each specific situation and solved using numerical methods because some of the inputs are functions of the outputs. It tells me we (as a species) don't really have convection figured out yet and are just waiting for a really big brain to piece it all together in a way that can be done analytically. And he'll end up with a fundamental constant or a unit of measure named after him.
 
:)

yeah, hbar is the pre-auto-corrected username, which is why I "can't type." the h in question is Planck's constant over 2 pi, not the film coefficient. It is interesting how thermo is really statistical mechanics which quickly gives way to quantum.
 
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:)

yeah, hbar is the pre-auto-corrected username, which is why I "can't type." the h in question is Planck's constant over 2 pi, not the film coefficient. It is interesting how thermo is really statistical mechanics which quickly gives way to quantum.

Ah, we use hbar for average film coefficient. I knew it was hbar, just not the right one. 🤣
 
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So how about using a surfactant to increase cooling the engine?

I'll say this...surface tension doesn't appear to be a factor in any of the standard equations or correlations I've ever come across for heat transfer. The difference between those correlations and reality is that those are based on a pure fluid medium, and if there's a phase change (boiling), it's on purpose.

A surfactant should help gas bubbles move along in the flow and break into smaller bubbles rather than sticking on a surface, which may be where some of their benefit would appear. I think a cooling system after running for a while (days to weeks) shouldn't have any air bubbles left, and if running correctly shouldn't have any steam bubbles. On an engine that tends to run hot, it could buy you some margin between overheating and boiling over because once you start getting steam bubbles covering the heat transfer surface, the engine can thermally "run away". 50% glycol with an 18psi cap doesn't boil until about 267F and that needs to be about halfway between the coolant temperature and the surface temperature to actually produce boiling (like 250 coolant and 284 iron, or 227 coolant and 307 iron :oops: ).

There could be some benefit in a water jacket that has experienced oil contamination because it acts as an emulsifier which could help the oil mix with the coolant and be removed from the surface.

Ethylene and propylene glycol also act as a surfactant and emulsifier, so I would be skeptical of the benefits of adding another one unless someone could explain to me the mechanism of how it works, or there are other mechanisms at play in products like Water Wetter beyond just the surface tension. I think I would definitely use it on a race vehicle that ran straight water in the cooling system.
 
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I worked with a guy who's doctorate degree was in developing heat transfer equations for super critical fluid flow in boilers. It's possible to put enough heat and pressure into water to make it go well past it's critical point where it doesn't act like a liquid or a gas. It's been a long time since I've had to do tube or fin fan heat exchanger calculations. I probably have some hand written versions somewhere in a filing cabinet or box around here.
 
I worked with a guy who's doctorate degree was in developing heat transfer equations for super critical fluid flow in boilers. It's possible to put enough heat and pressure into water to make it go well past it's critical point where it doesn't act like a liquid or a gas. It's been a long time since I've had to do tube or fin fan heat exchanger calculations. I probably have some hand written versions somewhere in a filing cabinet or box around here.

I get into the supercritical stuff with CO2 as the industry tries to figure out natural refrigerants. Doesn't take that much heat for CO2...it'll get there at 86F. My undergrad degree didn't cover supercritical at all, so it's a learning process.
 
I worked on coal boilers. Water supercritical is above 3200psi and 705 F.

I'm accustomed to 1050 F for most outlet temps.

The fin fan cooling systems on some equipment work just like car radiators.
 
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