Air Locker Dash Lights Flashing

[khowarte]

My 2006 LJ Rubicon Unlimited dash hub locking lights blink indicating that both axles are not locked even thought both actually lock. I put the jeep on 4 jack stands and opened both differentials, and rotated the tires to confirm the lock. I also checked both differential sensors and they go from an open circuit to 0 ohms when locked. I tried shoring the connector to simulate the sensor lock on both axles and they continued to flash.

I read a posting (don't remember where I saw this) that said something about a part on the left side of the steering column that is related to the key being in the ignition switch and fully inserted. I tried moving the key in and out in the ignition switch in the On position when testing and it didn't make any difference. I do not have the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). I do have an aftermarket security system that does not allow the jeep to start unless the key fob is pushed.

Where do I look to find the reason for this issue?

Thank you

 

[JKP]

Haven't seen this before, check the FSM under Resources.

How worn is the key? I had some weird things going on with a really worn key.

 

[khowarte]

Haven't seen this before, check the FSM under Resources.

How worn is the key? I had some weird things going on with a really worn key.

Thanks for responding. I have 3 keys, 2 Jeep keys and an aftermarket key. All show some wear, especially one of the Jeep keys. I tried all 3 and moved them around when in the ignition with it on and the lock light does not go on solid.

I believe it is flashing with the fast flash, not the slow flash. I have read several sections of the FSM that I downloaded but haven't found anything that seems to help so far.

The Jeep only has 45k miles on it but it was towed behind an RV and used for rock crawling before we bought it 1 year ago to tow behind our truck camper.

 

[RocknLJ]

I have the exact same issue and tried all that you mentioned as well. Thinking it may be related to the ignition switch which I have yet to check.

Saw this video which I am going to try what he mentions.

 

[RocknLJ]

Appears we are nearly neighbors and have LJR’s with the same problem.

 

[JKP]

KEY - IN IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The key-in ignition switch is integral to the ignition
switch, which is mounted on the left side of the
steering column, opposite the ignition cylinder. It
closes a path to ground for the instrument cluster
chime warning circuitry when the ignition key is
inserted in the ignition cylinder and the driver door
jamb switch is closed (driver door is open). The
key-in ignition switch opens the ground path when
the key is removed from the ignition cylinder.
The key-in ignition switch cannot be repaired and,
if faulty or damaged, the entire ignition switch must
be replaced. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN/IGNITION
SWITCH - REMOVAL).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - KEY - IN IGNITION

 

[khowarte]

Appears we are nearly neighbors and have LJR’s with the same problem.

That is an interesting video, thank you! I will check this out further. I notice I can push the key in about 1/8" when it is in the on position but that doesn't help. I did go to the link of the video and he replaced the ignition switch to fix the issue.

 

[khowarte]

KEY - IN IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The key-in ignition switch is integral to the ignition
switch, which is mounted on the left side of the
steering column, opposite the ignition cylinder. It
closes a path to ground for the instrument cluster
chime warning circuitry when the ignition key is
inserted in the ignition cylinder and the driver door
jamb switch is closed (driver door is open). The
key-in ignition switch opens the ground path when
the key is removed from the ignition cylinder.
The key-in ignition switch cannot be repaired and,
if faulty or damaged, the entire ignition switch must
be replaced. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN/IGNITION
SWITCH - REMOVAL).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - KEY - IN IGNITION

Got it, thank you for positing that info. I found this section in the service manual.

 

[RocknLJ]

Keep us posted on your progress and results. Very interested in seeing what your solution is.
Thx!

 

[khowarte]

Keep us posted on your progress and results. Very interested in seeing what your solution is.
Thx!

Yes, I will keep you posted on my progress and results. Currently I have the front axles apart waiting on parts to repair the inner bearing failure on the left front and I found the right front outer bearing race was spinning in the hub. Since these are special for the warn manual hub lock I had to order parts from Ranysworldwide.com. I also have to get an emissions test done before the end of the month so I don't want to disconnect the battery to work on the ignition yet. So once I get the front wheels back together and emission tested, I can work further on the ignition.

Again, my thanks to everyone for their input.

 

[inkedrose]

My 2006 LJ Rubicon Unlimited dash hub locking lights blink indicating that both axles are not locked even thought both actually lock. I put the jeep on 4 jack stands and opened both differentials, and rotated the tires to confirm the lock. I also checked both differential sensors and they go from an open circuit to 0 ohms when locked. I tried shoring the connector to simulate the sensor lock on both axles and they continued to flash.

I read a posting (don't remember where I saw this) that said something about a part on the left side of the steering column that is related to the key being in the ignition switch and fully inserted. I tried moving the key in and out in the ignition switch in the On position when testing and it didn't make any difference. I do not have the Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS). I do have an aftermarket security system that does not allow the jeep to start unless the key fob is pushed.

Where do I look to find the reason for this issue?

Thank you

My buddy just went through same thing and it was his ignition. Lockers work but something about needing to jiggle keys for the lights to work proper. Doesn't seem to effect locker function

 

[khowarte]

Yes, I will keep you posted on my progress and results. Currently I have the front axles apart waiting on parts to repair the inner bearing failure on the left front and I found the right front outer bearing race was spinning in the hub. Since these are special for the warn manual hub lock I had to order parts from Ranysworldwide.com. I also have to get an emissions test done before the end of the month so I don't want to disconnect the battery to work on the ignition yet. So once I get the front wheels back together and emission tested, I can work further on the ignition.

Again, my thanks to everyone for their input.

My buddy just went through same thing and it was his ignition. Lockers work but something about needing to jiggle keys for the lights to work proper. Doesn't seem to effect locker function

Do you know which of the 3 part (ignition key lock, ignition actuator pin, or ignition switch) he replaced on his ignition?

 

[RocknLJ]

Was just going to ask the same question.
Probably will throw the parts cannon at it when I get a chance and replace all 3.

With my luck if I just replace one component the other two will break shortly thereafter.

 

[inkedrose]

Do you know which of the 3 part (ignition key lock, ignition actuator pin, or ignition switch) he replaced on his ignition?

Texted and asked him, he said he's still just jiggling & ignoring the lights. Last time I wheeled with him we tested his lockers and they were engaged even with the light flickering. That would drive me crazy but not my Jeep. He said he found a bunch about it on one of the other forums, apperently a common ish problem for older TJR's. I didn't read all the way through these but heres a couple threads might help

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rubicon-locker-lights-flashing-when-lockers-are-engaged.5646/

https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/flashing-rubicon-locker-lights.398378/

 

[RocknLJ]

Thx!
I’m leaning towards the ignition components as everything else so far has checked out ok. Will troubleshoot that area but will be a while before I can get to it as I’m buried with other more pressing projects.

 

[J.Cain]

I’ve been down this road with my Rubi as well. What worked for my jeep was a combination of multiple things and I wish I could say exactly which solved the blinking locker lights. Here is where I would start:

1. Spray your ignition switch with electrical & contact cleaner and follow up with some WD-40.

2. Run the gauge and light test. (Ignition off, press & hold the odometer reset for a seconds while turning the ignition to the on position and it cluster should complete the test).

3. Check for codes (turn the ignition to on 3 times leaving it in the on position I believe the third time and the odometer should display any code numbers if found).

If this does not solve the issue, it’s time to verify wiring connections & ignition.

4. Disconnect both of the locker switches on the axle and verify you have power (if I recall correctly it should be 5v) if you power source is good short the connector out (I used a paper clip, heck could have been a piece of wire I do not recall off hand). Test the system while shorted. If still flashing push the key in, apply pressure in, up, down. If this resolves the issue, great ( I doubt it is the key based on your 45K).

5. Lastly, if this has not solved it. Time to remove the cluster and clean the terminal pins from the two connectors that plug in the back. I used a brass wire brush (lightly across the pins and the connectors, followed up by some electric @ contact cleaner followed by a small amount of dielectric grease). Complete the cluster/gauge test again. Fingers crossed this corrects your flashing locker lights. If so remove the shorted connector ends, plug them back into the locker switch and have fun.

6. Hopefully not your issue but cracking the grounds loose behind the dash on the firewall and the retightening them might not be bad idea since you’re in there. *I doubt this will be needed as you have no other gauge issues.

After I verified I had 5v DC at the connector ends I preformed the cluster/gauge test one last time and the lights worked as expected. I removed the shorted connector ends, reconnected the locker sensors and everything as they should, except the rear locker due to the over tightening of the fill plug preventing the locker from fully locking. Backing out the fill plug and reinstalling to just snug solved the rear locker blinking light.

Please report back and best of luck.

 

[RocknLJ]

Thanks!
Good run down on things to check.

Original poster had the low mileage I chimed in as I have the same exact issue.

Did almost all what you outlined above except checking/cleaning the cluster connections and refreshing the grounds.

Will give that a try as well.

Thanks again and have a great weekend!

 

[Rut Row]

did you get it fixed? what worked?

 

[khowarte]

did you get it fixed? what worked?

No, I haven't worked on it any more. We have an apartment building rehab going on that is taking my time. I will post a response when I get back working on it. Thanks for the reminder!