Right. If you want a decent amount of backspacing then wheel choice is a pain with either kit it seemsNot if you get the 5x5.5 kit. It's more spendy though. And wheels are a pain.
Right. If you want a decent amount of backspacing then wheel choice is a pain with either kit it seemsNot if you get the 5x5.5 kit. It's more spendy though. And wheels are a pain.
Right. If you want a decent amount of backspacing then wheel choice is a pain with either kit it seems
I originally had vibes after doing a TT. I messed with the pinion until I gave up. Later I removed it when modifying the TCase and changing the clutch. Probably several times. However, there have been vibes since the first time when I originally did the TT. Is there a specific orientation?
No it shouldn’t matter the orientation of the driveshaft in the yokes. The yokes are neutral and the shaft is balanced independently of them. The orientation that matters for driveshaft phase is that bottom half and top half of the driveshaft are in the same orientation they were balanced in. As long as you didn’t separate the two halves and forget how they went then you are ok.I originally had vibes after doing a TT. I messed with the pinion until I gave up. Later I removed it when modifying the TCase and changing the clutch. Probably several times. However, there have been vibes since the first time when I originally did the TT. Is there a specific orientation?
I"m at 3.625 with this wheelset, but plan to move to another sometime later.I like my hubs a lot. Only downside is the hub decreases your backspacing by 7/8” on each side. I can’t remember what @mrblaine said is the minimum amount of backspace he will use with a small hub kit but it’s something to think about.
I don't think I did, and I agree with that assessment.No it shouldn’t matter the orientation of the driveshaft in the yokes. The yokes are neutral and the shaft is balanced independently of them. The orientation that matters for driveshaft phase is that bottom half and top half of the driveshaft are in the same orientation they were balanced in. As long as you didn’t separate the two halves and forget how they went then you are ok.
I think the U-Joints are original. The PO never made any modifications and just drove it around his ranch. It only had 46k miles when I got it. Now I'm at 92K and down the rabbit hole of mods.You are at a phase in this of pulling your air out and the brain is spinning to outer space.
Stop....take a breath....and back up.
I don't know if I missed this in your above posts but...
The front driveshaft and axle u-joints were last changed when? If you know and if recently what brand did you use?
If it's been a while since they've been changed or you don't know the change date...
Start right there!!
Put some new Spicer u-joints in and re-evaluate.
If you don't know the date you should! This gets you to ground zero on your u-joints (in the front anyways) and can confirm the problem went away or is elsewhere.
Im betting you'll see an improvement with new u-joints.
Good luck.
How is your front pinion angle? I too fought with my front causing vibrations. I eventually installed a hub kit. After resetting my caster, lowering my front pinion, I can now leave my hubs I and have barely any vibes. If you can experiment with the front. Try lowering the front pinion some. It seemed to have worked for mine after spending over $1k on a hub kit. LolI am dealing with the same (I think) situation. Droning vibration from about 50 to 65 mph. It largely goes away with the rear driveshaft removed. Drive shaft was rebuilt and balanced. No change. It goes away almost completely with the front drive shaft removed. I just had the front drive shaft straightened and balanced and it made no difference. Adjusting the rear pinion angle until it was “perfect” made it worse. At this point I am about to reduce the rear pinion angle slightly to where it is not ”perfect” but will reduce the vibs, albeit while also inducing vibs when the clutch is engaged. I am pretty much convinced nothing (short of hubs) will completely eliminate the problem.
It should not, but that is not always the case.No it shouldn’t matter the orientation of the driveshaft in the yokes. The yokes are neutral and the shaft is balanced independently of them. The orientation that matters for driveshaft phase is that bottom half and top half of the driveshaft are in the same orientation they were balanced in. As long as you didn’t separate the two halves and forget how they went then you are ok.
When we've done lifts for customers even if minor 2.5"...u-joints always get changed if age, condition are unknown.I think the U-Joints are original. The PO never made any modifications and just drove it around his ranch. It only had 46k miles when I got it. Now I'm at 92K and down the rabbit hole of mods.
I do have two other TJ's, so I'm thinking of moving one of those front drive shafts over and seeing how it drives. If it's vibe free I'll start by replacing the U-joints on mine.
That makes sense. Replace all 3 with these? I have a 2005X with OEM front driveshaftWhen we've done lifts for customers even if minor 2.5"...u-joints always get changed if age, condition are unknown.
A good behaving u-joint might start misbehaving when you apply more angular stress.
If it were me...I'd change the u-joints. It's the only way you'll be sure. Swapping a DS from another...if you've no idea the age and condition of those u-joints could have the same effect or worse.
Your u-joints need changed anyways....stick with that.
Don't turn the mess into a quagmire by adding more possibles instead of ruling them out.
YesThat makes sense. Replace all 3 with these? I have a 2005X with OEM front driveshaft
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3...non_greaseable_u_joint_fits_1997_to_2006.html
How are you going to do that, fool with the motor mount brackets?Another thing on my list is to center the tcase, from the factory it is slightly offset to the right, which im sure has effect seeing how sensitive everything is after the mods.
I noticed the same vibes when going up steeper hills a long time ago when I just had 2.5" of lift and a 1" MML. Once I got an SYE they rear vibes went away. But people should know that around that lift they will likely get vibes either all the time or when going uphill if they don't have an SYE. It must relate to the amount of rear lift, being under load and those angles as you go uphill.I managed to reduce severity of vibrations by leveling the Jeep out.
Before my rear was almost half an inch higher than front, there was something with those angles it did not like.
I came to this after noticing how it settles down while driving up the steep slope on the highway.
Cant think of any other explanation, i have been at this pinion angle before as well as everything + - 2*
Another thing on my list is to center the tcase, from the factory it is slightly offset to the right, which im sure has effect seeing how sensitive everything is after the mods.
Open up a channel for tcase mount bolts to slide towards driver side, it should not need much.How are you going to do that, fool with the motor mount brackets?
If you do the channel solution, how will the splined shaft out of the transmission fit into the TCase? Seems to me that the engine, tranny, and TCase all move together or don't move at all. Maybe I'm missing something.Open up a channel for tcase mount bolts to slide towards driver side, it should not need much.
But now that you mentioned, i wonder if motor mounts are offset a bit from the factory.
