Ha yeah. Which combined with radio working with key in, I was thinking it was back fed on the line side of ignition not the load side.
Electrical issues
- Thread starter johndl58
- Start date
Ha yeah. Which combined with radio working with key in, I was thinking it was back fed on the line side of ignition not the load side.
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
I recently purchased a replacement ignition cylinder that 'learned' my key.
Found this Dorman unit on Bezo-zon.
Easy to install and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8BKR5M?tag=wranglerorg-20
If your key is worn, start by getting a replacement cut based on the VIN and key code.
Or if you happen to have a spare that is clean & crisp, use it to 'program' the replacement cylinder and make it your new key.
Just don't use a worn key to 'program' the new cylinder and you'll be fine.
Do a little homework and you'll see that there are a few parts worth replacing while you have this all torn apart.
A plastic "pin" that wears and breaks comes to mind, along with the actual switch assembly.
Also, the switch assembly is held onto the column with a small T-10 screw, so you'll need a T-10 TORX bit/driver.
If you already handled the re-pinning and replacing of the harness connector, this part of the project will be easy compared to that and it will likely address the last of the parasitic drain issue.
Found this Dorman unit on Bezo-zon.
Easy to install and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8BKR5M?tag=wranglerorg-20
If your key is worn, start by getting a replacement cut based on the VIN and key code.
Or if you happen to have a spare that is clean & crisp, use it to 'program' the replacement cylinder and make it your new key.
Just don't use a worn key to 'program' the new cylinder and you'll be fine.
Do a little homework and you'll see that there are a few parts worth replacing while you have this all torn apart.
A plastic "pin" that wears and breaks comes to mind, along with the actual switch assembly.
Also, the switch assembly is held onto the column with a small T-10 screw, so you'll need a T-10 TORX bit/driver.
If you already handled the re-pinning and replacing of the harness connector, this part of the project will be easy compared to that and it will likely address the last of the parasitic drain issue.
I recently purchased a replacement ignition cylinder that 'learned' my key.
Found this Dorman unit on Bezo-zon.
Easy to install and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8BKR5M?tag=wranglerorg-20
If your key is worn, start by getting a replacement cut based on the VIN and key code.
Or if you happen to have a spare that is clean & crisp, use it to 'program' the replacement cylinder and make it your new key.
Just don't use a worn key to 'program' the new cylinder and you'll be fine.
Do a little homework and you'll see that there are a few parts worth replacing while you have this all torn apart.
A plastic "pin" that wears and breaks comes to mind, along with the actual switch assembly.
Also, the switch assembly is held onto the column with a small T-10 screw, so you'll need a T-10 TORX bit/driver.
If you already handled the re-pinning and replacing of the harness connector, this part of the project will be easy compared to that and it will likely address the last of the parasitic drain issue.
Wow. That's pretty interesting. Thank you for this info. I just purchased a remote battery disconnect that Im going to install but I will definitely check this out next.
Installed this today, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJNZTRP3?tag=wranglerorg-20. It's a stop gap for now but seems to work pretty well initially. Next will be the key cylinder replacement.
I recently purchased a replacement ignition cylinder that 'learned' my key.
Found this Dorman unit on Bezo-zon.
Easy to install and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8BKR5M?tag=wranglerorg-20
If your key is worn, start by getting a replacement cut based on the VIN and key code.
Or if you happen to have a spare that is clean & crisp, use it to 'program' the replacement cylinder and make it your new key.
Just don't use a worn key to 'program' the new cylinder and you'll be fine.
Do a little homework and you'll see that there are a few parts worth replacing while you have this all torn apart.
A plastic "pin" that wears and breaks comes to mind, along with the actual switch assembly.
Also, the switch assembly is held onto the column with a small T-10 screw, so you'll need a T-10 TORX bit/driver.
If you already handled the re-pinning and replacing of the harness connector, this part of the project will be easy compared to that and it will likely address the last of the parasitic drain issue.
Did you replace the actuator as well?
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
Yes.
The one I bought looked like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2747175280...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
...No affiliation...
I am dealing with the same no blinker/hazard issue so I am interested in your problem/resolution.
TL
R lost blinkers hazards suddenly, checked both fuses, replaced MFS (old one looks like it was already replaced with AM part), replaced relay, replaced MFS connector (which was crumbling away) and still no dice. Occasionally when I switch the hazards on the right blinker indicator comes on briefly solid.
Noobie question: How do you check for power drain?
TL
R lost blinkers hazards suddenly, checked both fuses, replaced MFS (old one looks like it was already replaced with AM part), replaced relay, replaced MFS connector (which was crumbling away) and still no dice. Occasionally when I switch the hazards on the right blinker indicator comes on briefly solid.Noobie question: How do you check for power drain?
Make sure both fuses are good. The one under the dash on mine popped at some point. I also replaced the mfsw and connector. Neither fixed my high amp draw. Check for power drain by putting amp meter between negative Battery post and negative cable.
I am dealing with the same no blinker/hazard issue so I am interested in your problem/resolution.
TL
Noobie question: How do you check for power drain?
Forgot to mention that my main brake lights dont work either. The 3rd brake light does.
So I fixed my no blinker issue. Long story short after, in addition to missing turn signals, my interior lighting went out and odometer started flashing NO FUSE. Fuses were fine but I found corroded and broken pins B2 and B3 in dash footwear connector C107. B2 is BK/WT wire from MFSW fuse and B3 is a PK/WT wire for interior lighting.
I started with testing voltage on the MFS connector pin 11 (constant power) which was low. From there I followed the wiring diagram to find the problem spot.
Thanks
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