TerryD's 2006 LJ Rubicon

[FarFire70]

Yesterday we finished up the RockJock 4" lift. I used the RS5000X shocks and for now, I'm using the JKS disconnects for now. They work well enough for the time being.

View attachment 623841

I also need a new steering stabilizer as well.

View attachment 623840

I need new rear brake lines now as well. Are the Dana 35 disc brake lines on the axle the same as the Dana 44?

I'm wanting to find some stainless lines for it and since the Dana 44 lines are made together with the caliper hoses I was curious if they would interchange.

I'm also torn on tire size. Considering 285/75/16s or possibly stepping up to 295/75/16s if I can find a set I like. We'll have to see how that works out cause the truck is about ready for a new set of 285s as well and I usually swap the used tires to the 4x4 to wear out.

I hate metric dimension on tires - so I can't tell you an opinion on that...

Given you went to 4" of lift - toss on a 1.25 BL from BMB and go with whatever European measurements equal to 35s...

[You're just catching my disdain of the metric tire - don't take it personally...]

Jeep look great!

SS looks SJ - years back they had some really poor bushings that just fell apart. Yours looks like that. Get a good/decent one and you'll be amazed at the difference.

 

[DirtDawg]

My 2005 Rubicon purchased 3+ weeks ago was highly modded by the former owner (see my intro post), which did include 35" tires. Although its RE 5.5" long arm kit with corresponding springs and 1" BL suits 35" well, IMO those are poorly suited to the 5.13 diff gearing installed years ago (TBD by one full wheel rotation vs DS count). I'd much rather lose 1" ground clearance to achieve better shifting function - especially in the higher elevation mountains where I live. I have a fresh set of (5) BFG M/T KM3 ready to be installed Tuesday morning. Since the OP likewise has the 42RLE overdrive trans, a consideration factor of "looks right" vs "drives right"...

 

[TerryD]

I hate metric dimension on tires - so I can't tell you an opinion on that...

Given you went to 4" of lift - toss on a 1.25 BL from BMB and go with whatever European measurements equal to 35s...

[You're just catching my disdain of the metric tire - don't take it personally...]

Jeep look great!

SS looks SJ - years back they had some really poor bushings that just fell apart. Yours looks like that. Get a good/decent one and you'll be amazed at the difference.

The tire size is an easy formula to do, especially with a smart phone handy but 285/75/16 is a 32.8"ish tire depending on brand and carcass. The 295/75/16 is about 33.4"ish. The Metric "35" is actually a 34.6" tire (315/75/16).

But the first number is tread width so don't be confused.

For a 285/75/16
A=285= tread width (convert mm to in)
B=75= aspect ratio so 75%
C=16= rim

2(A*B)+C
2(285*0.75)+16
2(11.22*0.75)+16
2(8.415)+16
16.83+16=32.8" diameter

Hope that helps clear it up some.

 

[TerryD]

Found some short brake hoses listed for a 2003 Rubicon so I ordered them to try and make rear axle brake lines.

I think I can modify the factory brackets to take the short hoses and bend up my own hard lines.

 

[FarFire70]

The tire size is an easy formula to do, especially with a smart phone handy but 285/75/16 is a 32.8"ish tire depending on brand and carcass. The 295/75/16 is about 33.4"ish. The Metric "35" is actually a 34.6" tire (315/75/16).

But the first number is tread width so don't be confused.

For a 285/75/16
A=285= tread width (convert mm to in)
B=75= aspect ratio so 75%
C=16= rim

2(A*B)+C
2(285*0.75)+16
2(11.22*0.75)+16
2(8.415)+16
16.83+16=32.8" diameter

Hope that helps clear it up some.

I appreciate the explanation and I'm aware of how it works — I just can't believe how much blackboard you had to do to tell me the size of the tires when I can just say - 'I have 35x12.5R15 ' - and you have all that math already worked out in that simple sentence...

This is why I hate the metric tire sizing...

 

[TerryD]

I appreciate the explanation and I'm aware of how it works — I just can't believe how much blackboard you had to do to tell me the size of the tires when I can just say - 'I have 35x12.5R15 ' - and you have all that math already worked out in that simple sentence...

This is why I hate the metric tire sizing...

Well, for a 16" wheel, I just know a 285/75/16 is a "33", a 265/75/16 is a "32" and a 315/75/16 is a "35". I can extrapolate other sizes like a 34 or 31 from those numbers.

The imperial sizes are fading fast and 15" wheels are almost dead. 17s are the new 15 and we're quickly headed into the 18-20" realm.

 

[FarFire70]

Well, for a 16" wheel, I just know a 285/75/16 is a "33", a 265/75/16 is a "32" and a 315/75/16 is a "35". I can extrapolate other sizes like a 34 or 31 from those numbers.

The imperial sizes are fading fast and 15" wheels are almost dead. 17s are the new 15 and we're quickly headed into the 18-20" realm.

I respect that and I've befriended many like you who know it - But I just don't have the care to memorize the conversions....

I don't mean to be a dick - just sharing my seat on the silliness of how metric tires are described. When you step back - it doesn't make more sense than the inch model. —> I'd respect it more if it followed a cmXcmRcm model.... That way I'm not doing % math in my head...

BTW - Let's all ignore that the metric model still includes an imperial inch wheel diameter.....

 

[TerryD]

I respect that and I've befriended many like you who know it - But I just don't have the care to memorize the conversions....

I don't mean to be a dick - just sharing my seat on the silliness of how metric tires are described. When you step back - it doesn't make more sense than the inch model. —> I'd respect it more if it followed a cmXcmRcm model.... That way I'm not doing % math in my head...

BTW - Let's all ignore that the metric model still includes an imperial inch wheel diameter.....

I'm not a fan of it either but it is the world we live in so I've just adapted.

Anyways, I am no closer to a decision about tires ATM. Got some family issues I need to deal with and some other obligations I'm trying to get finished so I can get back to my stuff.

I'm probably done trying to volunteer to make things better outside of my household for a long long time.

 

[FarFire70]

I'm not a fan of it either but it is the world we live in so I've just adapted.

Anyways, I am no closer to a decision about tires ATM. Got some family issues I need to deal with and some other obligations I'm trying to get finished so I can get back to my stuff.

I'm probably done trying to volunteer to make things better outside of my household for a long long time.

Sorry to have derailed your thread, wasn't my intention.

Hope all works with the family issues!

Be sure to get that SS fixed up at least before you're rolling around, for safety.

I get you're still in decision space so I'll go back to my original recommendation for a BMB BL and 35s.

Do note (having done this 'recently' myself from 33s to 35s) - it is a literal jump to get into the Jeep on 35s vs 33s on ~3" of lift, at least for me. Food for thought.

 

[TerryD]

So I nicked the rear brake hose hard lines cutting the spring buckets for the lift. I found some hoses listed for a 2002 TJ with rear discs.

I popped the clips off the original single piece hoses and used the factory brackets with the older hoses. It worked great!

I also replaced the center hose and used the Dorman 4" extension hoses on the front.

 

[TerryD]

Prepping for paint.

View attachment 605531

I realized I never posted a finished shot of the cover installed.

Wrapped the fuel rail and new injectors in the DEI insulation kit.

Yesterday with it being 100° F outside, my IATs were over 140° F all day. While changing the transmission fluid last night, I wrapped the intake tube in some reflective adhesive-backed engine insulation I had laying around. I don't know that it'll make a lot of difference but it can't really hurt.

I'm seriously considering a snorkel kit just to try and lower my IATs.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

Looks good!

I haven’t had any more vapor lock from the third injector after that dei kit and the mopar injector heat loom.

 

[Irun]

Looks good!

I haven’t had any more vapor lock from the third injector after that dei kit and the mopar injector heat loom.

If anyone else is looking at this, don't go the cheap "Chinese" made route. As a test, I installed the DEI kit on my TJ and the cheap chinese kit on my LJ. The cheap kit material was noticeably inferior and after the install the LJ heat soak stumble persisted. The TJ heat soak problem was solved.

 

[TerryD]

"small emissions leak"

 

[TerryD]

New fuel pump installed. RockJock rear track bar relocation bracket installed. Jeep back together. Can fill it without getting puked on now. Doesn't appear to leak. Now to take it apart again tomorrow.

 

[TerryD]

Having to pull the bumper to change the PS hoses is a bit of aggravation.

 

[TerryD]

So two weeks with the new pump in and no CEL for the Evap leak.

Going to pull the DS this weekend and check the t-case fluid level but I'm 99% sure it's a bad bearing in the case. 189k on the clock, about $300 for new bearings and a chain.

I ordered the 2-low kit from Summit. I know it's supposed to be discontinued but I'm gonna see what happens. Maybe I'll luck into an old-stock setup or something. I dunno. It's worth a shot I think.

 

[Longwhitejeep]

If you get it fixed in time, me and tj buddy are headed to Potts Mountain on black Friday if you want to join.

 

[TerryD]

If you get it fixed in time, me and tj buddy are headed to Potts Mountain on black Friday if you want to join.

I think we're having our Thanksgiving that Friday since my wife is working the two days before. I'll have to verify. Doubt it's ready by then though.

Tentative ship date on the probably non-existent 2-low kit is Dec 5th. But I need to diag it either way. It's mobile ATM so I don't want to cripple it till I've got my parts here.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

Yesterday with it being 100° F outside, my IATs were over 140° F all day. While changing the transmission fluid last night, I wrapped the intake tube in some reflective adhesive-backed engine insulation I had laying around. I don't know that it'll make a lot of difference but it can't really hurt.

I'm seriously considering a snorkel kit just to try and lower my IATs.

View attachment 632926

I have an '04 with the IAT sensor in the intake manifold. I feel like I might have shared this, but I fit a piece of 1/4" insulation made by DEI to the underside of the horseshoe intake. I cutout the section where the 3-4 exhaust come up together but just removed the glass from the back to mold it over the 2 and 5 runners. Test fitment photos below. I used stainless zip ties to attach it, so far so good after several thousand miles.

I built it in the April-May period while I was doing a bunch of other things (including installing the shorty headers) and didn't get like for like temps in CO for quite a while, but finally have had some cold days around 40°F to compare with logs pre-install.

The results...
If you just go staight out for a drive, IAT temps are down a solid 15-20 degrees. If you're out running errands and park for a few here and there, the underhood temps will heat soak the intake and in that situation I think it might be a wash or slight negative by keeping airflow from passing under the intake to help cool it. You will still see the IATs drop on wide open throttle.

I think an electric fan setup with a cool down cycle would help more as would some hood louvers following the Oman4x4 position as a guide.