The padding is now mostly gone from mine. If the scratches bother me enough, I can paint those.
Basket's Build
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The padding is now mostly gone from mine. If the scratches bother me enough, I can paint those.
I was catching up on this thread and while reading Apparition’s I was thinking of the photo of you on the Escalator with the giraffe hanging out the passenger side. I remembered your soft top got damaged there.
I’ve had good luck with the Spidershade I got from you in 2021? Only problem is a lot of dust can get in. If it rained that could be pretty bad! Never happened before.
Back half of my roll bar padding is gone. Torn up on Behind the Rocks.
Memories of that trip are a lot of what led to the concerted effort to further decrease the profile of the Jeep by adding highlines and eliminating the flares entirely. The corner armor and useable sliders also happened so I no longer need to be as careful with the body.
I wouldn't be too worried about that in Moab...... It'll dry right off with that dry desert air
Soft top equipped
I don't remember who's idea this was but it is genius and I actually remembered to do it. They drive me nuts on the drive out there every year hopefully 1 layer is enough to keep them quiet. Otherwise I'll have to go to string of some kind. Or zip ties cos I'm cheap
I don't remember who's idea this was but it is genius and I actually remembered to do it. They drive me nuts on the drive out there every year hopefully 1 layer is enough to keep them quiet. Otherwise I'll have to go to string of some kind. Or zip ties cos I'm cheap
Yep. Its on the list. I recall you made yours but not the material you used. Was it 1x2“ stainless of some type?
1x2" 6061-t6 ripped down to 1x1.625" on a table saw. Then a 3/8" round over bit.
Record search for the ol 2 came in. Last registered in 2000, had a lein on it that expired in 2008. Man it's sat for a looong time.
So the Jeep has been overheating at idle since last Moab. I thought it was a bad fan clutch, so I replaced it with a Hayden Heavy Duty fan clutch 2737. Now that it is warm enough again, the problem is back.
So the situation is...
Overheats when idling
Cools back down when revving stationary
Maintains temp when cruising around town
Maintains temp on the highway at like 3k rpm (it's like... 1mm hotter than it used to be before this started in this scenario)
I also noticed that when it's sitting there overheating at idle, the heat from my heater is really not warm. Gets back to nice and toasty when I am revving it to cool the engine down.
I'm thinking my water pump is going bad? I replaced it 14k miles/3.5y ago, but it is just a napa house brand one. Does that sound like it could be likely or maybe something else?
So the situation is...
Overheats when idling
Cools back down when revving stationary
Maintains temp when cruising around town
Maintains temp on the highway at like 3k rpm (it's like... 1mm hotter than it used to be before this started in this scenario)
I also noticed that when it's sitting there overheating at idle, the heat from my heater is really not warm. Gets back to nice and toasty when I am revving it to cool the engine down.
I'm thinking my water pump is going bad? I replaced it 14k miles/3.5y ago, but it is just a napa house brand one. Does that sound like it could be likely or maybe something else?
Vary well could be the pump not creating enough flow at idle.
Something is weak in your cooling system. Most likely the thermostat is sticking or water pump is going out.
Yeah I guess I can just do both at the same time, tstats are cheap. Probably do another flush while I'm at it and emptying the block
Start with the easier, the thermostat. If it's sticking, it could cause the symptoms you described. To confirm my thought, I asked my AI mechanic about the symptoms. Here's what it said:
Yes—if the thermostat is sticking closed (or only cracking open a little), it can absolutely give you the one-two punch of:
Because the Jeep TJ’s heater core is plumbed in parallel with the radiator circuit (both branches sit behind the thermostat), any restriction at the thermostat reduces flow to both the radiator and the heater core. At road speed you sometimes get enough ram-air through the radiator to mask the problem, but at idle that extra airflow disappears—so the temp needle creeps up while the cabin stays cold.
Yes—if the thermostat is sticking closed (or only cracking open a little), it can absolutely give you the one-two punch of:
- Overheating at idle or in stop-and-go traffic, and
- Little to no heat coming from the HVAC vents.
Why that happens
| Thermostat position | What the coolant does | Result at the gauge | Result at cabin heater |
|---|---|---|---|
| Normal (opens ~195 °F / 90 °C) | Hot coolant leaves the engine, circulates through radiator and heater core, returns cooled | Temperature stabilises in the 200–215 °F range | Hot coolant flows through heater core → warm air |
| Stuck closed or sticky | Coolant can’t leave engine block easily; flow through radiator and heater core is restricted | Heat soaks in the block, especially while idling (water pump spins slow) → temp climbs | Little or no coolant gets to heater core → “cold” vents |
Quick sanity checks
- Watch the upper radiator hose:
- Cold when you start → suddenly gets hot ≈ thermostat opened.
- Stays cool even as the gauge climbs ≈ thermostat stuck closed
- Feel the heater hoses (carefully): both should get hot once the Jeep is at operating temp. One cold hose usually points to low/no flow.
- Burp the system: trapped air can mimic a stuck thermostat, so top up coolant and bleed air first.
Other culprits that can look similar
| Symptom overlap | Possible cause | How to differentiate |
|---|---|---|
| Overheats at idle and no cabin heat | • Low coolant level / air pocket • Weak water pump • Severely clogged heater core | Coolant level check; squeeze test on lower hose; infrared temp gun across radiator/heater hoses |
| Overheats at idle but cabin heat is OK | fan clutch failure, clogged radiator fins | Heater output proves coolant is flowing; look at fan operation and radiator surface temps |
| Normal temp gauge but no cabin heat | Blend-door actuator or cable not moving, heater core clogged | Both heater hoses hot → blend door; one hose hot, one cold → core restriction |
Best fix path
- Replace the thermostat (use an OE-spec 195 °F unit and a fresh gasket). They’re under $20 and take <1 hour.
- Flush/burp the system and refill with 50/50 HOAT-compatible coolant.
- Check water-pump impeller if problem persists—high-mileage 4.0 L pumps can erode or loosen.
- Inspect fan clutch (for ’97-’99 mechanical fan) or electric fan relay (’00-’06).
- Back-flush heater core if you still lack cabin heat.
I think you’re right Trevor. Probably the water pump. Are you getting any leak at the weep hole? What coolant are you running? And when was the last time you changed it? If you pull the pump, post some pictures of what you find.
Edit: since it could be a sticky thermostat according to @Irun’s AI mechanic, maybe change that first, since it’s cheap and easy.
wow. that’s a comprehensive answer!
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