What’s the inner diameter of your Spectre filter housing?
I run their 6” and I was able to find a good paper filter which works in that housing. If you are running the 6” I’ll go back and find the filter I use.
The Silver Fox LJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
What’s the inner diameter of your Spectre filter housing?
I run their 6” and I was able to find a good paper filter which works in that housing. If you are running the 6” I’ll go back and find the filter I use.
I believe mine is just under 5in for the filter and 4inch at the ends. I’m at work so I can’t pull it off to get an exact but that’s what I remember when ordering it. I havnt been able to find a replacement paper nor a pre filter that would work but posted to see if their were. I’ll still be looking till I can find a pre filter or a paper filter.
This is the post showing the filter I used over in my thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nashville-tjs-build-continued.42035/post-1490288
That post also has a link to the AFE filter I used. You may be able to find a version which works for you there - they have quite a collection.
Edit: Be sitting down when you check the price…
This is the post showing the filter I used over in my thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nashville-tjs-build-continued.42035/post-1490288
That post also has a link to the AFE filter I used. You may be able to find a version which works for you there - they have quite a collection.
Edit: Be sitting down when you check the price…
I really wish they didn't discontinue the 9831 air filter box, I looked all over for one when I did my swap. Ended up with the 9332. If I was able to find the 9831 I wanted to see if I could fit the Volant 61509 filter in it. Even more of a sticker shock than the AFE you have posted.
they're a good sized outfit like a Summit Racing or Jeg's and show a local pickup available so I would think they have live inventory capability
Last edited:
Well, hour and a half from order entry to shipping notification, I’d say they have it! Thanks!
I’d say the passenger side is 90% done. The slider is on, the battery is tied down in a way I’m not happy with, but it’s tied down. Everything works. The hood is cut. That went pretty easy. Cut it while it was on the rig and then worked with the flap disk for awhile. Got the turn signal and side marker mounted and working. Not so happy with the side marker, but I don’t care that much. I had all these LED’s from years ago just sitting in the attic, so I’m using them. Still have to decide on hood pins. I can think on that. If I want to move the side marker I can do that too because that section of aluminum can completely be cut off and not affect anything. NO idea why it’s so wide. The earlier GR non-Hiline is not that wide. Oops, just noticed I didn’t take any pics of the turn signals and side marker lamps. Tomorrow. Very happy with the slider. It looks phenomenal to me. This is a big project but very rewarding. I just hope I can get the overall battery system better. Tomorrow I’ll put the cowl on, turn it around, and get started on the drivers side. I need to do the Cats too, so this may take a bit.
For the battery hold down, what about making some plates that go up the side of the battery that bolt on to the bottom tray’s sides with countersunk bolts from inside to out, then a 90 break at the top to bolt to your top hold down plate? Could also start with some wider material for the top plate and trim it around the terminals so there is more support in the middle of the battery.
Looking great!
Looking great!
I think that tape is still there!!! I’m so tired. I just put it there as a safety precaution. Didn’t want the aluminum strap to slide down and touch the - and + ! It is bolted in with some J hooks, but the more I think of it the more I don’t like a conductive strap over the battery. I know many never have an issue, but I might look at doing something like what @Abendage mentioned.
I think conductive hold downs are fine, but I agree, with J-hooks it seems dicey. I’d want a plate on each side with 2 fasteners at the bottom so there is no chance of it pivoting like a j-hook potentially could.
Nice job on the sliders, they really did turn out amazing!
Looking great!
I agree with Abendage, the bolt-on battery uprights that he an I both used are solid. I can post a picture of the pieces in that kit if you want me to. It would be simple to make something similar to adapt to the GR tray.
I was also wondering why GR made the fender so wide at that location. I was originally going to trim it out, and then figured it was a waste of time. The cut line I was pondering is marked in this picture.
My Antirock did hit the fender on up travel and required a 45 on the lower inside edge of the grille to fender attachment. You may have to do the same unless the SwayLOC clears this location better.
I agree with Abendage, the bolt-on battery uprights that he an I both used are solid. I can post a picture of the pieces in that kit if you want me to. It would be simple to make something similar to adapt to the GR tray.
I was also wondering why GR made the fender so wide at that location. I was originally going to trim it out, and then figured it was a waste of time. The cut line I was pondering is marked in this picture.
My Antirock did hit the fender on up travel and required a 45 on the lower inside edge of the grille to fender attachment. You may have to do the same unless the SwayLOC clears this location better.
I think I see what you’re saying, but ‘bring it’! It would help to see. Thank you!
I have the older design that only takes the Optima battery unfortunately. But when my Optima craps out I’ll either buy the new setup they have, or more likely I’ll make a tray similarly shaped that bolts to the old style lower support. The new design the support and tray are one piece. Old design they are 2. All depends how much time I have when the need arises.
Similar threads
