The Silver Fox LJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
I have to trim the fins on the Odyssey I run as well Jeremy. That Genright battery tray is designed around the Optima.
I run that tray and an Odyssey battery. I trimmed the top of the bracket down to where the fins start so if I need a new battery I don’t have to modify the battery on the road.
Odyssey, Optima, all the same thing when I can’t read! Thanks for the correction. Battery fins trimmed and battery tray trimmed, so all good! My biggest trouble now is finding a reasonable battery tie down mechanism. My first attempt was a fail. I’m still thinking it through because I haven’t found one you can buy off the shelf that works with the tray.
The passenger side lives and breathes. I’m unhappy with the + battery terminal location and the battery terminals. Going to have to do something. But, for now, just need to cut the hood on this side.
I’ll look at that! It will definitely get the terminals farther away from the aluminum. I may get new cables, so it might work better as an overall solution. Thanks!
It’s a Spectre 4” aluminum box with the 9833 filter. Got the idea for the inlet behind the headlight from @mrblaine. The pics I saw of his looks better, but I’m happy how it turned out.
I found a 2” SS tube with base and cut and trimmed the base till it fit the hole I drilled behind the light (2” OD). Then found a SS exhaust tube 2” OD-3” ID. They didn’t quite fit together so I put the exhaust tip in the freezer, then block of wood and hammered it right on. Silicone 3” ID intake turbo inter cooler tube fit over both the Spectre and the exhaust tip. It all worked out better than I thought. Was able to preserve the stock accordion and tube.
Building a new battery tray or building a new bracket for the factory tray is also an option. On my Krawltech fenders, I set the factory tray on top of the tiny Krawltech tray and added more bracing to the firewall. That was a reason to move the PCM higher. Most are little Wizard tricks for this type of project.
A tip for anyone else considering this. The intercooler stuff is designed for boosted pressure so it is a lot more difficult to deal with when it comes to stretching it over stuff that may not be an exact size. If you use silicone hose connectors and elbows with aluminum intake tubing, it is all a bunch easier to deal with. We get most of our stuff from the folks in Colorado.
https://www.siliconeintakes.com/?ga...OtVSoFIdJoC55PsYlgiUocY-6XIjNqNhoCAOsQAvD_BwE
I tend to focus on a less cobbled together look since that is what appeals to my sense of aesthetics and so far, the folks above have had the pieces to do that. Not that there is anything wrong with how the above should work, just not my cuppa. I'm also not a fan of oiled filters, just can't get there from here. I prefer a plain pleated paper equivalent to OEM.
I will be interested in hearing if the 2" port in the grill allows enough air flow. I think it should, but I don't know. I use 2.5" since 2" = 3.1 square inches and 2.5" = 4.9 square inches. My thought, incorrect or not was I want something close to the diameter of the throttle body or ID of the main intake tube. We'll pick up some bits of air flow restriction here and there due to the length of the air path, so I wanted to err on the side of larger if possible.
I just swapped to this filter housing set up. Had a THOR, it was terrible for many reasons but the specter solved all my issues except it’s still an oiled filter. I’m not super worried since I’m in the north east so I don’t see dust but I’d still like a paper if I can get it. Anyone know of a paper filter what would fit this housing?
I know the windstar housing and filters are preferred bc they’re paper but having to find a used housing makes things hard to find.
I know the windstar housing and filters are preferred bc they’re paper but having to find a used housing makes things hard to find.
After multiple looks at yours I thought it might be 2.5”, especially after I received the 2” tube. I went ahead because there is so little real estate there and it opens up to 3” within 1.125”. Both are larger than stock, so I hoped for the best. Nice job on yours and thanks for the idea. I could have done the Windstar out the cowl but really liked your solution. I can still use one in the current location if I decide this filter isn’t working out.
My understanding is you’d have to make a custom pre-filter, but I’d be happy to find out someone knows where to find one.
It is far too often overlooked by the sellers and designers of these type trays that setting 50 pounds on top of a tall pedestal and only using 2 or 4 of the firewall fasteners is a recipe for disaster. The below is the result of a Metal Cloak tray and I've done similar to the damage a Genright tray caused. My first 2 Crawltek trays didn't have any holes that lined up correctly so I had to do that from scratch and they've been fine. What they miss is the front of the OEM battery tray is bolted to the fender stamped wheel well and while it appears to just be thin sheetmetal, it supplies a shear panel to the front of the battery tray and prevents up and down movement that stops the fire wall from cracking.
The round fastener heads are the two studs you see on the engine bay side. They were completely cracked out of the firewall sheet metal. I built a 14 gauge repair panel and spot welded it back in.
If I can't pick up enough bracing to stop the tray from moving around at the fender somehow, I add a brace as high as possible.
There is plenty of real estate, you just have to be patient about your lay-out. You protected your grill harness grounding location. I know that metal is metal and where the grounds attach to the grill is of no consequence so I simply relocated them to one of the inlet base plate fasteners at final install.
I also know that the headlight bucket studs don't care if they go through 1 layer of sheetmetal or 2 to hold the headlight in, so the lower holes are clearance for the head light studs to go through.
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