Savvy slider (and corner armor) install tips

[Midnight LJR]

My sliders arrived today! Looks like corner armor will be in this week as well.

So my plan is to have the aluminum painted to match the Jeep and to paint the steel black with same paint as the bumper so they can be touched up.

Should I Install them first, then remove them for painting? Also what is the best rivnut tool to buy to make sure those go in well. I don’t have a lot of experience with them.

Any other tips from people who have installed these before is appreciated.

 

[bobthetj03]

I think @Alex01 helped install @tomtaylz sliders. He may have some tips.

 

[ImpactOrange]

Blaine has some good tips in this thread.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/post-327903

 

[ImpactOrange]

I used this tool when I installed my Savvy sliders and corner armor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If you wanna some some $$$, search the web for DIY rivnut tool.

 

[Alex01]

My sliders arrived today! Looks like corner armor will be in this week as well.
View attachment 113229

So my plan is to have the aluminum painted to match the Jeep and to paint the steel black with same paint as the bumper so they can be touched up.

Should I Install them first, then remove them for painting? Also what is the best rivnut tool to buy to make sure those go in well. I don’t have a lot of experience with them.

Any other tips from people who have installed these before is appreciated.

I would test fit/drill holes and install rivnuts before painting. When we installed Tom's we used the bolt / nut technique to installed the rivnuts but since then I bought a tool and it is much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/?tag=wranglerorg-20

@tomtaylz had a great writeup he found online. Hopefully, he can find it and link it here.

 

[JDS123]

I remember from a few years ago, Blaine mentioned something about preloading the rockers against the body to get a tight fit. IIRC, he said it was critical to making sure you’re getting the most protection out of them. I’m not sure about much more than that.

I’d also get a quality #4 impact bit. The few times I’ve messed with my rockers, that has made it 1000 times easier.

Also be sure to smooth out the holes after drilling. That way the serrated nuts have something to grab onto. My shop didn’t do this for my rockers and all the bolts ended up loose (poor work on their part).

For corner armor, I’m looking for the same tips as I plan to order soon.

 

[Plumber1]

I would agree mount them up and then have them painted or powder coated. Its much easier to correct a mistake before painting than afterwards.

 

[Midnight LJR]

Thanks for all the great info. I will read the thread for Blaine’s tips and watch the video. Also ordered a tool just to make it easier. Figure it will be worth having in the garage.

Going to get them install and fitted up then find somewhere to get the painted. Of corner arrives this week I will hopefully get it all done at once.


Really love this forum

 

[oldjeepman]

Hey bud. Could you measure the length of them them for me, the sliders and the steel steps also? Wondering if the steel will fit between my flares and the sliders between the wheel openings. Like to know before I buy them. And how your to paint them will look great, that's what I was thinking also. Thanks

 

[mrblaine]

Hey bud. Could you measure the length of them them for me, the sliders and the steel steps also? Wondering if the steel will fit between my flares and the sliders between the wheel openings. Like to know before I buy them. And how your to paint them will look great, that's what I was thinking also. Thanks

The aluminum backer runs wheel well to wheel well. The steel slider runs between OEM fender flares.

If the aluminum is to be painted, I strongly suggest one of two things. Deal with a shop that has experience painting aluminum that knows to use an aluminum primer or get them powder coat primed by a shop that knows to sandblast and then get them coated right away before the protective layer of aluminum oxide forms. I've seen many sets done by body shops that did not do it correctly and the paint peels over very easily. That isn't saying that any power coat is better if they are clueless as well.

 

[mrblaine]

Thanks for all the great info. I will read the thread for Blaine’s tips and watch the video. Also ordered a tool just to make it easier. Figure it will be worth having in the garage.

Going to get them install and fitted up then find somewhere to get the painted. Of corner arrives this week I will hopefully get it all done at once.


Really love this forum

Biggest mistake I see folks push them up too high which rolls the lower edge outward which makes the vertical side out of parallel with the side of the tub. Peek in the ends and make sure the backer is tight to the body and then as high as it should go.

Second mistake is not parallel to the door opening. Sometimes due to install error, sometimes due to bent tub. Don't drill a single hole until you know that the corner will fit nicely on top of the backer without a gap at either end. Don't get rid of the gap by raising the corner armor out of parallel with the top of the tub all the way around.

There are only a few TJ Unlimited tubs that are not bent. We typically have to trim the lower edge of the corner so they fit correctly now. The gap is typically 1/8" at one end to zero at the other. No, it isn't a manufacturing defect in the corner or the slider.

Don't underestimate the value of a few tools. A good sharp 3/8" and 17/32" drill bit. A good nut sert setting tool. More clamps than you thought you needed.

 

[Goatman]

I have the same Astro tool as post #3. It can go up to 1/2" rivnut. I would suggest using stainless rivnuts and put a bit of locktite on the outer clamping edge. Be sure to paint any hole you drill before you install the rivnut.

 

[mrblaine]

I have the same Astro tool as post #3. It can go up to 1/2" rivnut. I would suggest using stainless rivnuts and put a bit of locktite on the outer clamping edge. Be sure to paint any hole you drill before you install the rivnut.

Have you used stainless nutserts with stainless hardware successfully?

 

[Midnight LJR]

Thought I would add this here since I asked about it in the original thread as well. It just came in. Only 29lbs for everything in the photo that’s nuts. Should only add approx 25 to rig. because I believe I can remove the body side of the Moryde reinforcement now.

 

[Midnight LJR]

Biggest mistake I see folks push them up too high which rolls the lower edge outward which makes the vertical side out of parallel with the side of the tub. Peek in the ends and make sure the backer is tight to the body and then as high as it should go.

Second mistake is not parallel to the door opening. Sometimes due to install error, sometimes due to bent tub. Don't drill a single hole until you know that the corner will fit nicely on top of the backer without a gap at either end. Don't get rid of the gap by raising the corner armor out of parallel with the top of the tub all the way around.

There are only a few TJ Unlimited tubs that are not bent. We typically have to trim the lower edge of the corner so they fit correctly now. The gap is typically 1/8" at one end to zero at the other. No, it isn't a manufacturing defect in the corner or the slider.

Don't underestimate the value of a few tools. A good sharp 3/8" and 17/32" drill bit. A good nut sert setting tool. More clamps than you thought you needed.

As usual Blaine than you for sharing your knowledge. If I could ask for a little more since this has been the Savvy armor tip thread

In the below photos it doesn’t seem like the reinforcements are going to fit well. Once I tighten the bolts down will it suck the corner down snug? Or would I potentially need to grind down the bumper to make figment good before installing?

 

[Alex01]

Thought I would add this here since I asked about it in the original thread as well. It just came in. Only 29lbs for everything in the photo that’s nuts. Should only add approx 25 to rig. because I believe I can remove the body side of the Moryde reinforcement now.

View attachment 113379

I see lots of rivnuts in your future.

 

[mrblaine]

As usual Blaine than you for sharing your knowledge. If I could ask for a little more since this has been the Savvy armor tip thread

In the below photos it doesn’t seem like the reinforcements are going to fit well. Once I tighten the bolts down will it suck the corner down snug? Or would I potentially need to grind down the bumper to make figment good before installing?

View attachment 113380

View attachment 113381

Yes, you have to knock the sharp corner down.

 

[Midnight LJR]

Yes, you have to knock the sharp corner down.

Thank you, kind of obvious but didn’t want to grind pretty new bumper without confirmation.

 

[L J]

Thank you, kind of obvious but didn’t want to grind pretty new bumper without confirmation.

mrblaine did a great job on fitting them up to my bumper

 

[oldjeepman]

The aluminum backer runs wheel well to wheel well. The steel slider runs between OEM fender flares.

If the aluminum is to be painted, I strongly suggest one of two things. Deal with a shop that has experience painting aluminum that knows to use an aluminum primer or get them powder coat primed by a shop that knows to sandblast and then get them coated right away before the protective layer of aluminum oxide forms. I've seen many sets done by body shops that did not do it correctly and the paint peels over very easily. That isn't saying that any power coat is better if they are clueless as well.

I understand about the length of the sliders and how they fit. But with the hi-line kit I have. The stock rubi rockers are trimmed to 53" and wheel opening is 61 3/4".So the length of these pieces would be helpful to determine how much will need trimming or will TJ length one work better.