Savvy slider (and corner armor) install tips

[Alex01]

Going off the idea that the savvy corner armor provides enough to support to dump the MORryde bracket, would the savvy aluminum tailgate armor be enough to get rid of the MORryde support behind the spare?

Thoughts?

@mrblaine

 

[Mike_H]

My rear fenders were cut by the PO so I can't center the sliders per the instructions. I used the front wheel well as a guide and noticed that in @Vasq pictures 2 of the factory nutserts were inside 2 holes on the sliders. I'm using that as a guide to try and be as centered as possible. Here are front and rear holes in question with slider jacked and clamped. Does this look right? And do I end up just drilling out the factory nutserts or do they get ignored?

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Edit: I think I found the answer in another thread in case anyone else comes looking. Based on this picture from @Jerry Bransford install in this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/page-8#post-327903 it looks like those nutserts get ignored, and they should roughly line up with those holes in the sliders.

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If this is incorrect, someone please correct me in case anyone else finds this thread.

If there is a clearance hole in the armor for the factory nutsert, then leave it. Pretty sure that is where the fender flares mount anyway. If you're going to keep them (the flares), you'll need some sort of thread there.

 

[Kevin Q]

How's this look? I feel like I need to go out and get another clamp(s) to pull the front tighter to the body.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Looks like a good to setup me. The bolts will draw the front and rear in tightly.

 

[flyinfish]

How's this look? I feel like I need to go out and get another clamp(s) to pull the front tighter to the body.


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There's about a 1" area on each end that I cut a block to fit. I was then able to clamp each end.
Two floor jacks made a big difference as well as taking the wheels off so I could sight down the body.

 

[mrblaine]

Looks like a good to setup me. The bolts will draw the front and rear in tightly.

If he drills it there, when he sets the lower nutserts and then tightens up the ones through the side, the lowers will no longer line up. If he installs the lowers first, the side fasteners will pull the sheet metal out to the rock rail. It needs to be tight both places for it all to work.

 

[Kevin Q]

Update...Before I drilled I put a jack towards the front and used another clamp. Pulled the front in nice and tight.

 

[Mike_H]

Been kinda working this through in my mind, before I mount sliders on my new tub. What do I bias first? If I push up, the sliders want to fall away from the tub. If I pull them into the tub, I'm concerned there will be too much friction and they won't go "up" as far as they need to. Am I overthinking it? Maybe draw them into the tub a little, lift up, then draw them in again?

 

[mrblaine]

Benn kinda working this through in my mind, before I mount sliders on my new tub. What do I bias first? If I push up, the sliders want to fall away from the tub. If I pull them into the tub, I'm concerned there will be too much friction and they won't go "up" as far as they need to. Am I overthinking it? Maybe draw them into the tub a little, lift up, then draw them in again?

You aren't overthinking it. We set clamps loosely but snug to hold them in tight to the sides at each end. Then we use jack or jacks to move the outer corner up so it preloads the bend and opens it up slightly without pulling away from the tub any where. One thing that helps is a Bessey clamp and clamp the outside lower edge in the middle-ish using the back side of the torque box to pull against.
I have a 4 x 4 I stand on end that has a bevel on it that matches the lower angle out where the corner is. The jack will want to roll so lay some pieces of 1/4" bar stock in front of and behind the solid wheels at the vehicle end of the jack.

Then go back to the end clamps and tighten them up.

Another thing we do is take a nice file and ease the inner edge of the top to slow down the paint damage if you get the edge too high and need to pull it back down.

If you aren't lifting the side of the rig up about 6-8", you don't have enough preload.

 

[Kevin Q]

Ok, made some progress. Had a nutsert come loose so I'll cut it out tomorrow and do the final fit up and move to the passenger side.

Dumb question...where are the washers used?

 

[flyinfish]

Ok, made some progress. Had a nutsert come loose so I'll cut it out tomorrow and do the final fit up and move to the passenger side.

Dumb question...where are the washers used?

Behind the holes in the front fender.

 

[mrblaine]

Ok, made some progress. Had a nutsert come loose so I'll cut it out tomorrow and do the final fit up and move to the passenger side.

Dumb question...where are the washers used?

Washers are used on the bolts that go up into the torque box. Fender washers should be used inside the front fenders and at the last hole in the torque box if the hole in the back hits the hole in the torque box. Put a fender washer on top with a flange nut.