I’m looking to do the locker bypass mod on my 05 Rubi. I want to install two stock looking independent switches in place of the original switch and the empty slot next to it. I have seen a post where someone did that but I was just wondering what I need to jump to achieve that and what I need to do with the old switch. Any advice is appreciated
Rubicon locker bypass question
- Thread starter DipStick45
- Start date
I moved the pumps to under the hood, ran new wiring thru 2 switches. It deleted the single switch that came in my Rubicon.
I ordered 5 amp fuse taps and ran new wire to the switches then to the pumps.
Grounded the pump on the ABS tray since my 06 didn't come with ABS.
I ordered 5 amp fuse taps and ran new wire to the switches then to the pumps.
Grounded the pump on the ABS tray since my 06 didn't come with ABS.
If you are replacing the original switch, then you would remove it.
Keep in mind if you remove the original switch, you also remove the safety features.
IMO, the mod should really be used as an override more than a bypass.
@John Cooper what are the two wires from one wire? How did you know to tie those together? At the toggle switch I assume you pulled the power wire from the OEM switch and connected to one side of the toggle and then these wires ran to the pumps?
Were the rest of wires eliminated? The pump has two wires into one section and then three wires into another section.
Were the rest of wires eliminated? The pump has two wires into one section and then three wires into another section.
Pulled power from the red wires, eliminating the green wires, black wires are ground.
Look at the link Chris posted. I went by what Jerry Bransford posted and it has worked perfectly.
If you are replacing the original switch, then you would remove it.
Keep in mind if you remove the original switch, you also remove the safety features.
IMO, the mod should really be used as an override more than a bypass.
Yes it removes the safety features of the original switch.
Easy job. Tape off the pink/green wire. It doesn't get used. All you need is the red for power and black for ground. No relays are needed either.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wiring-factory-rubicon-air-lockers.2760/post-926510
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wiring-factory-rubicon-air-lockers.2760/post-926510
Is 7pm tonight too late to drop mine off at your house for you to do this to mine.
p.s. Everything you do to your Jeeps looks perfect.
Is 7pm tonight too late to drop mine off at your house for you to do this to mine.
p.s. Everything you do to your Jeeps looks perfect.
Bring it down to me, i can't guarantee the switches will line up, but they will work.......
Bring it down to me, i can't guarantee the switches will line up, but they will work.......
Looks great to me. I have one eye lower than the other anyway.
Did you put a level on those switches
He did but the right side tires were up on the
Street curb !
I bypassed the safety features with wiring mods done right behind the factory switch. I can activate either locker at any time and the factory switch still works as long as safety requirements are met (speed 4lo etc). The dash indicators also work as they did from the factory, flashing if the locker position does not match the switch position and solid if they are locked, with factory switch or bypass switches. Yes I have a level.
If you're planning to run power directly to the pumps, then you don't need the factory switch wiring.
It uses a ground signal which is fed to the cluster to control the pumps.
I came to this conclusion today. Basically run a hot lead to the toggle, then to the pumps. Then provide a ground for the pumps. Not sure if I want to do this way as I like the dash indicator lights on. So have to decide between the two methods.
Thanks I did read it. I think that is the second option listed in the post Chris made on how to re-wire the switches. Which is what I may end up going with. The toggle switches I bought have a little light on the end. Not sure how bright it will be.
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