Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Rubicon Axle Swap

There is definitely something to be said for that.

As a side note, when I did them I used one of those toggle switches with an led in the tip, I then ran the ground connector on the switch through the sensor on the axle, this let me see if the locker was engaged just like factory.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

I am using an LED for this so when the circuit closes it is lit and open it’s off. Simple. Thanks for the info too!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Drizit
I am using an LED for this so when the circuit closes it is lit and open it’s off. Simple. Thanks for the info too!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's just the ticket. Welcome to the wonderful world of lockers.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Hello i have made the same axle swap but i have the front driveshaft of the rubi axles. At the begineing i shorthened the sport front driveshaft and installed 1310/1330 U JOINTS at the end of both driveshafts but now i want to upgrade the front driveshaft to the rubi driveshaft, and i dont really know how may be the best way to do it.

I dont know if i can change the output yoke from the 231J transfer case, installing another yoke with a 1330 configuration. I have made a little of google research but all information is a little confusing about what yoke i may use. 26splines 1330 configuration but i can figure out which i may use...

Somebody have some info about to help? thankss
 
You can get replacement yokes for just about any joint you like. I went with custom shafts and 1350 joints all around. I then replaced the yokes on the tcase and axles so now I only need one type of spare joint.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
I absolutely cannot recommend driveshafts with 1350 size u-joints for a TJ. That big of a u-joint won't allow enough flex inside the CV to allow full axle droop without interference. I had a 1350 rear shaft that Tom Wood reluctantly built for me, advising against that size joint, and it made a racket when the axle would go to full droop. I now carry it solely as a spare. I run 1330's front and rear and even those are pretty much overkill.
 
Last edited:
There is definitely something to be said for that.

As a side note, when I did them I used one of those toggle switches with an led in the tip, I then ran the ground connector on the switch through the sensor on the axle, this let me see if the locker was engaged just like factory.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
How did you wire in your toggle switch to the sensor? I have the same type of toggle switches with the led lights and would like to do the same.
 
Message me I’ve done the swap and wired up the pumps, it’s not hard, I mounted my front locker pump under the ABS tray, but there are other locations that work well too.

I know this is an old post but I bought a set of rubi axles for my non rubi sahara. I have the pumps and everything I just have questions about the drive shafts.
 
I know this is an old post but I bought a set of rubi axles for my non rubi sahara. I have the pumps and everything I just have questions about the drive shafts.

You'll likely need conversation joints or change out the yokes on the 44 to match what the 30/35 had. I'd look it up but I have minimal internet.

If I recall correctly the 44 needs slightly smaller shafts than the 30/35 but don't quote me it's been awhile.
 
You'll likely need conversation joints or change out the yokes on the 44 to match what the 30/35 had. I'd look it up but I have minimal internet.

If I recall correctly the 44 needs slightly smaller shafts than the 30/35 but don't quote me it's been awhile.

I cannot figure out how to private message you. Please shoot me one
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts