Rubicon Axle Swap

[01TJ-Blues]

So, I purchased a set of Rubicon Dana 44s for a comparable 2004 TJ and am planning to install them on my 2001 TJ but have a couple of questions before I begin the swap.

Do the driveshafts from the Dana 30 and Dana 35 matchup/direct bolt up to the Dana 44?

The axles came with the brake lines, calipers, rotors and E Brake cables and junction plate and pumps with wiring. Do these swap over from the Dana 35?

Basically just looking to make sure I have everything lined when I begin so I’m not on jack stands waiting for parts.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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[tomtaylz]

@Alex01 did this same switch on an 01, I believe he has said the driveshaft had to be shortened but he can probably give more details

 

[Chris]

@Kevin E also did the same swap, so he may chime in on this as well. I want to say the front driveshaft is the same, but it's the rear that had to be shortened.

 

[Boinked]

From a nameless forum.

After reading several write-ups it seemed swapping out my stock 97 TJ Dana 30/35 axles with 2005 Rubi Dana 44's was mostly bolt in. I was able to get a set of Rubi axles at a decent price so pulled the trigger. From researching I knew I had to get new e-brake cables, the spicer 1330/1310 conversion u-joints, and that the driveshafts may have to be shortened somewhat.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Rubicons use a couple different larger size driveshaft u-joints. The Dana 44's front axle u-joint yoke is a 5-1330, the rear is close to that sjze but I'd have to consult my chart on that one since it changes between years. Your existing driveshafts use the smaller 1310 size u-joints. You can install replacement 1310 size yokes onto the Dana 44 axles to simplify the job. Driveshaft lengths will likely have to be slightly shortened a tad by a driveshaft shop.

 

[Alex01]

As tom said I did this swap. First, you will need to get the correct ujoints for the dana 44. In my case I needed to have a local shop shorten my front driveshaft a bit and send my rear back to tom woods and had them shorten it. Each one costs me less then $100 each.

Other than that the swap was one of the easier things I have done. It literally plug and play. If you can get the ebrake cable and ideally the locker pumps.

 

[Drizit]

The rubi rear drive shaft won't do you any good as the transfer case doest have a slip yoke. I helped a friend do the swap and as he already had a 44 rear his rear shaft was fine, for the 35 it won't be. The front had to be shortened. In his case brake cables were fine but you will probably need to do something there. Fresh cables arn't that expensive though. As Jerry said, I'd be tempted to get new yokes for the axles, or if you go the conversion joint route, keep 2 spares in the jeep at all times. You won't be able to find them in the middle of nowhere when they unexpectedly fail.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

As tom said I did this swap. First, you will need to get the correct ujoints for the dana 44. In my case I needed to have a local shop shorten my front driveshaft a bit and send my rear back to tom woods and had them shorten it. Each one costs me less then $100 each. If you can grab the rubicons shafts it would be simpler.

Other than that the swap was one of the easier things I have done. It literally plug and play. If you can get the ebrake cable and ideally the locker pumps.

It sounds like I am close. I have the pumps and the rear came with the entire e brake cable setup so that should help. @jerrybransford says I may need to swap yokes but you are saying just the u joints? Just u joints would be obviously cheaper and drive shafts I can send off. I may reach out to Tom Woods to find out compressed and extended lengths to see where I am first however.

Question. Does the TJ Sport have the wiring plug ins to accommodate the Rubicon pumps or will I be adding this? Just curious how plug and play it really is for others that may be doing this.

Thanks for all of the tips!!!


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[01TJ-Blues]

The rubi rear drive shaft won't do you any good as the transfer case doest have a slip yoke. I helped a friend do the swap and as he already had a 44 rear his rear shaft was fine, for the 35 it won't be. The front had to be shortened. In his case brake cables were fine but you will probably need to do something there. Fresh cables arn't that expensive though. As Jerry said, I'd be tempted to get new yokes for the axles, or if you go the conversion joint route, keep 2 spares in the jeep at all times. You won't be able to find them in the middle of nowhere when they unexpectedly fail.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

As for the conversion yokes. Is this a specific item or simply a yoke from another model that makes it work? Also this rig has a SYE installed and the goonie goohoo that did it didn’t put a longer driveshaft in it so it’s too short now and my be ok. I’ll have to get the proper dimensions and check it out.

Thanks again!


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[01TJ-Blues]

Rubicons use a couple different larger size driveshaft u-joints. The Dana 44's front axle u-joint yoke is a 5-1330, the rear is close to that sjze but I'd have to consult my chart on that one since it changes between years. Your existing driveshafts use the smaller 1310 size u-joints. You can install replacement 1310 size yokes onto the Dana 44 axles to simplify the job. Driveshaft lengths will likely have to be slightly shortened a tad by a driveshaft shop.

@Jerry Bransford. Is this the yoke you speak of? Same for the front and read I assume?

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[Alex01]

On the bottom is a link to the u-joint I bought. You will need 2x one for each axle. At the time of my install this was actually the way Jerry recommended I do it.

As far as wiring goes for the locker pumps there is no plug and play feature on our models and you will need to do it yourself.
I started by mounting the pumps on the abs tray. Next, I cut off the ends of the oem wiring of the stock rubi pumps. I don't recall the wire colors but I believe there was a ground and 2 other wires. The 2 other wires are the ones that you will need to bring into the cab to turn on the locker. I highly suggest using a safety switch with a cover since it is your only protection against bumping the switch while cruising at 75 and destroying your axle.

Next I bought LED lights which I also linked in the bottom of this post.
I cut off the end of the harness that is attached to the sensor on the axle. This sensor tells you when the locker is engaged.
I ran those wires into the cab as well so when I hit the locker switch the LED will light up and tell me my locker is engaged.

Here is a photo of my current switch panel. Lockers are on the right and you can see the 2 LED lights that tell you the lockers are on.
I got this panel from 12voltguy. I asked for a panel for 3 oem size holes and 2 cigarette lighters. I then drilled out the holes for the safety switches on my own. I believe it was around $70. 12voltguy is very helpful and if you send him an email he will respond quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CKP1PW/?tag=wranglerorg-20 (a sealed unit would be better)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FO3B232/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Alex01]

I will also add that in order to shorten your driveshafts the shop WILL pull your current ujoints out in order to balance the shaft and they will need to be replaced. So getting a new yoke may make life easier for the install but down the line would have been an unnecessary expense.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

I will also add that in order to shorten your driveshafts the shop WILL pull your current ujoints out in order to balance the shaft and they will need to be replaced. So getting a new yoke may make life easier for the install but down the line would have been an unnecessary expense.

Sounds like the special u joints is the way to go then. I want to replace them anyway so this sounds like a prime time to do it.


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[Jerry Bransford]

No need for special u-joints, just install a normal easily replaced yoke like below. It will allow you to use your present driveshaft 1310 size u-joints which are fine. Your post shows the centering ball inside a CV joint, that's not a yoke.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPJDT8/?tag=wranglerorg-20 plus a new strap kit like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKR6HS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You just remove the pinion nut, pull the yoke off, slide this on, and tighten the pinion nut back to 170-180 ft-lbs.

 

[LeeH]

Message me I’ve done the swap and wired up the pumps, it’s not hard, I mounted my front locker pump under the ABS tray, but there are other locations that work well too.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Message me I’ve done the swap and wired up the pumps, it’s not hard, I mounted my front locker pump under the ABS tray, but there are other locations that work well too.

Mush appreciated. Not worried about the wiring, just wasn’t sure if there was a factory plug and play option.


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[01TJ-Blues]

No need for special u-joints, just install a normal easily replaced yoke like below. It will allow you to use your present driveshaft 1310 size u-joints which are fine. Your post shows the centering ball inside a CV joint, that's not a yoke.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPJDT8/?tag=wranglerorg-20 plus a new strap kit like at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKR6HS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You just remove the pinion nut, pull the yoke off, slide this on, and tighten the pinion nut back to 170-180 ft-lbs.

Not sure what CV joint you are speaking of, I didn’t post anything on that u less someone else did. I’ll round up the yokes and 1310 u joints. Thanks Jerry!


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[Jerry Bransford]

Not sure what CV joint you are speaking of, I didn’t post anything on that u less someone else did.

In your post #10 above is where I saw the CV centering yokes you asked about.

 

[derekmac]

Not sure what CV joint you are speaking of, I didn’t post anything on that u less someone else did. I’ll round up the yokes and 1310 u joints. Thanks Jerry!


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@Jerry Bransford. Is this the yoke you speak of? Same for the front and read I assume?
View attachment 56052


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Those are CV centering yokes.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Those are CV centering yokes.

Ahhh. Gotcha. Just ordered the recommended ones. Thanks!


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