Rubicon Axle Swap

[Drizit]

Not a big fan of straps myself, I prefer a ubolt kit myself. (some yokes can be modified to accept them some can't) they are stronger to start with. Another bonus that I didn't think of until this summer was that if for some reason you over torque the faster all you have to do is hammer it out and replace it. A friend over torqued his strap bolt and snapped it off. That turned into a fun afternoon of drilling and tapping.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Hey guys. So swap is pretty much complete, however drivelines are indeed too long so no to get those modified and then we can have this project wrapped up.

That said...do any of you guys have the dimensions for the driveline mods? The front won’t even bolt up due to its length and the rear works but I would like to know what it should be just to be sure.

If anyone has the dimensions so I can verify it with my driveline shop it would be super appreciated.


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[Alex01]

Hey guys. So swap is pretty much complete, however drivelines are indeed too long so no to get those modified and then we can have this project wrapped up.

That said...do any of you guys have the dimensions for the driveline mods? The front won’t even bolt up due to its length and the rear works but I would like to know what it should be just to be sure.

If anyone has the dimensions so I can verify it with my driveline shop it would be super appreciated.


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Best thing you can do is measure yoke to yoke and provide the numbers to your shop since each jeep will be a bit different.

Thats what I did and it worked out perfectly. Congratulations on the swap.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

Best thing you can do is measure yoke to yoke and provide the numbers to your shop since each jeep will be a bit different.

Thats what I did and it worked out perfectly. Congratulations on the swap.

On the yoke to yoke I understand but is that sitting on the ground or at full extension...or both? obviously different lengths of lift would impact this correct?

 

[Alex01]

On the yoke to yoke I understand but is that sitting on the ground or at full extension...or both? obviously different lengths of list would impact this correct?

Jeep should be on the ground.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

So. I installed he 2-4-8091x yoke and the strap kit that was recommended won’t work so needing some help. The yoke has larger holes where the strap bolts would go through and the aren’t threaded. I double checked the box and those are correct. Sonia there another strap kit or u bolt kit that can be used with this yoke?


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[Jerry Bransford]

So. I installed he 2-4-8091x yoke and the strap kit that was recommended won’t work so needing some help. The yoke has larger holes where the strap bolts would go through and the aren’t threaded. I double checked the box and those are correct. Sonia there another strap kit or u bolt kit that can be used with this yoke?

An unthreaded yoke means someone replaced the OE yoke that comes with threaded holes for use with straps with a different style yoke style meant for a u-bolt instead of straps. Having used both types, I'd replace that yoke with one that has threaded holes meant for straps to hold the u-joint in. U-joints don't need a big u-bolt to hold them in, the yoke is what does that regardless of what holds the u-joint's bearing cap down inside the opening. Not to mention it's very easy to over-tighten the nuts on a u-bolt which will ruin the u-joint.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

An unthreaded yoke means someone replaced the OE yoke that comes with threaded holes for use with straps with a different style yoke style meant for a u-bolt instead of straps. Having used both types, I'd replace that yoke with one that has threaded holes meant for straps to hold the u-joint in. U-joints don't need a big u-bolt to hold them in, the yoke is what does that regardless of what holds the u-joint's bearing cap down inside the opening. Not to mention it's very easy to over-tighten the nuts on a u-bolt which will ruin the u-joint.

Hey Jerry. The issue is that I ordered the Spicer 1-2-4-8081X yokes and they don’t have any threads. They have a larger open hole so not sure if somehow the yoke were BOTH mispackaged or if the part number isn’t the correct one somehow. But for sure the part number is the one you said to use so it’s very odd.


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[Alex01]

From the part number you posted above looks like it is a ubolt style yoke. According to amazon you will need Spicer 2-94-28X U-Bolt Kit. (For 1310 ujoint)

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Hey Jerry. The issue is that I ordered the Spicer 1-2-4-8081X yokes and they don’t have any threads. They have a larger open hole so not sure if somehow the yoke were BOTH mispackaged or if the part number isn’t the correct one somehow. But for sure the part number is the one you said to use so it’s very odd.


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My apologies if my p/n was incorrect but I do remember specifically looking for the OE p/n so it should have been threaded. Sorry it was not.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

My apologies if my p/n was incorrect but I do remember specifically looking for the OE p/n so it should have been threaded. Sorry it was not.

Oh it’s all good, I just wanted to make sure so am using the correct yoke so if you can give me some direction it would be greatly appreciated. I have these yokes installed so if a u bolt kit it the best solution that’s fine but if I need to pull these yokes and order a different part number I would love to know what it is. Any help is greatly appreciated. And thanks for the quick responses.


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[Jerry Bransford]

You can get the matching 1310 u-bolts at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKN6YA/?tag=wranglerorg-20. If you decide to go with u-bolts, just make sure to take it easy when tightening the nuts. It doesn't take much to hold the u-joint into the yoke so just barely snug is right. Too tight and it can easily crush the bearing cap and the needle bearings underneath.

Or to get the OE style yoke with the threaded holes for the strap bolt kit you have you can get it at Rock Auto at https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1416451,drivetrain,universal+joint+yoke,2408 second one down from the top.

The p/n on that page is the USA STANDARD GEAR USA 41017

 

[01TJ-Blues]

You can get the matching 1310 u-bolts at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CKN6YA/?tag=wranglerorg-20. If you decide to go with u-bolts, just make sure to take it easy when tightening the nuts. It doesn't take much to hold the u-joint into the yoke so just barely snug is right. Too tight and it can easily crush the bearing cap and the needle bearings underneath.

Or to get the OE style yoke with the threaded holes for the strap bolt kit you have you can get it at Rock Auto at https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1416451,drivetrain,universal+joint+yoke,2408 second one down from the top.

The p/n on that page is the USA STANDARD GEAR USA 41017

Thanks a ton Jerry!


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[01TJ-Blues]

Ok. So now the wiring...the stock Rubicon must run the wiring through and ECU to control the only 4 low engagement and possibly a safety feature of speed (not sure on this, guessing). The stock pumps will power with the red/black AND the pink/red. It doesn’t seem as though they will shut off when up to pressure either. Anyone have any wiring guidance as it seems the constant “on” would eventually burn up the compressors. Oh. And how does it bleed pressure off when you shut off the compressors? Sorry for my ignorance but confused on how these are wired.


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[Jerry Bransford]

The OE Rubicon compressor has its own built in pressure switch that automatically shuts it off when the pressure reaches 5 psi. A simple switched source of 12v connected to the compressor is all that is needed.

 

[01TJ-Blues]

The OE Rubicon compressor has its own built in pressure switch that automatically shuts it off when the pressure reaches 5 psi. A simple switched source of 12v connected to the compressor is all that is needed.

Think I figured it out. Black is hot, red is ground and pink is unused although it may be an override of some sort. Does this sound correct?


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[Jerry Bransford]

That rings a bell and sounds correct but it has been 10+ years since I wired mine. I can review the Mopar schematic in a day or so if you run into a glitch but it's hard to screw up. The circuit definitely only needs 2 of the compressor's 3 wires.

 

[Drizit]

That rings a bell and sounds correct but it has been 10+ years since I wired mine. I can review the Mopar schematic in a day or so if you run into a glitch but it's hard to screw up. The circuit definitely only needs 2 of the compressor's 3 wires.

It's been about 4 or 5 years for me so it's "much" fresher in my mind

The pink is, unused, it's probably for some other application the pump manufacturer also sells these for. I wired em red+ black-

They bleed the air as soon as you switch em off, the second hose barb on the pump is the exhaust, (and may or may not also be intake, I don't remember) try to keep it above water if you can. You don't really need a relay to run em as they are low amperage and don't run for long so it's up to you how to set em up. However personally I run a relay for everything just in case as cheap insurance.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

It's been about 4 or 5 years for me so it's "much" fresher in my mind

The pink is, unused, it's probably for some other application the pump manufacturer also sells these for. I wired em red+ black-

They bleed the air as soon as you switch em off, the second hose barb on the pump is the exhaust, (and may or may not also be intake, I don't remember) try to keep it above water if you can. You don't really need a relay to run em as they are low amperage and don't run for long so it's up to you how to set em up. However personally I run a relay for everything just in case as cheap insurance.

Thanks for the refresher. In the interest of increased reliability for the lockers I made a conscious decision to not use any relays in my compressor circuit. The compressor only draws an amp or two at the most so a relay is really unnecessary and adds complexity where it'd be of no benefit. I want my lockers to be as reliable as possible so for me at least, the simpler the circuit the better in things like this.

 

[Drizit]

Thanks for the refresher. In the interest of increased reliability for the lockers I made a conscious decision to not use any relays in my compressor circuit. The compressor only draws an amp or two at the most so a relay is really unnecessary and adds complexity where it'd be of no benefit. I want my lockers to be as reliable as possible so for me at least, the simpler the circuit the better in things like this.

There is definitely something to be said for that.

As a side note, when I did them I used one of those toggle switches with an led in the tip, I then ran the ground connector on the switch through the sensor on the axle, this let me see if the locker was engaged just like factory.

—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.