Powered Sub Under Back Seat

[cpwolf]

I thought I would post up some pics of the Rockville 10” powered sub I attached to the back seat.

I looked at @JMT post a few pics of a different I think 8”.

I used wood I had, basically 1x2. 3/4” thick, pushed two in under the metal straps below the pads.

Then took two sections running front to back on the seat 3/4 which gives space for the metal straps to go under the sub.

I got a Skar wiring kit and it went in pretty well.

I have JBL’s in the sound bar pods, and put Polk DB 5252 Components with the tweeters in pods in the dash.

Game changing, absolutely thumps when I play something like Sober from Tool. Everything sounds alive with the sub.

Of course, now I need an Amp under the steering column for the speakers to clear up and get a touch louder.

Was not hard to do, at all.
I am a little annoyed when I zip, it rattles a little. I’ll need to get back out and find where, I think the zipper on the sub, but I’ll find and get that corrected. Just left it unzipped, my seat stays in mostly. So no biggie for me.

Just thought I’d share that a 10” fits

 

[CreepinDeth]

I like the tweeter pods, which ones are those??
I have the same front components
I put my Rockville 10” sub on the rear gate
Stained new red oak 1x2’s for mounting

I installed a 4ch amp in my center console where
The rinky dink oem sub used to be. This drives the front components and rear 6.5” SKAR audio speakers

 

[cpwolf]

I like the tweeter pods, which ones are those??
I have the same front components
I put my Rockville 10” sub on the rear gate
Stained new red oak 1x2’s for mounting
View attachment 619260
I installed a 4ch amp in my center console where
The rinky dink oem sub used to be. This drives the front components and rear 6.5” SKAR audio speakers
View attachment 619262

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...lgo_pvid=5c65a569-fec8-44e6-bd10-7b736041cf93

Took forever to get them.
I couldn’t find any that fit right, Valicar was an option but way expensive

I had to put 2 sided black tape around the tweeter, for en exact fit and it came out great

 

[Obi-Wan]

Forgive the crappy photo, I took it a loooooong time ago.

I was able to build a box into the bottom side of my seat while leaving enough foam so it was still usable as a rear seat. I used a shallow mount 10" Kenwood and an old Alpine amp. Power, ground and signal were wired into a standard 15A 120V plug so I could easily disconnect the amp when removing the back seat. The amplifier fits snug, but doesn't touch the tub when the seat is locked in the upright position. It's been working like this for 15 years.

 

[glowell222]

I thought I would post up some pics of the Rockville 10” powered sub I attached to the back seat.

I looked at @JMT post a few pics of a different I think 8”.

I used wood I had, basically 1x2. 3/4” thick, pushed two in under the metal straps below the pads.

Then took two sections running front to back on the seat 3/4 which gives space for the metal straps to go under the sub.

I got a Skar wiring kit and it went in pretty well.

I have JBL’s in the sound bar pods, and put Polk DB 5252 Components with the tweeters in pods in the dash.

Game changing, absolutely thumps when I play something like Sober from Tool. Everything sounds alive with the sub.

Of course, now I need an Amp under the steering column for the speakers to clear up and get a touch louder.

Was not hard to do, at all.
I am a little annoyed when I zip, it rattles a little. I’ll need to get back out and find where, I think the zipper on the sub, but I’ll find and get that corrected. Just left it unzipped, my seat stays in mostly. So no biggie for me.

Just thought I’d share that a 10” fits

View attachment 619214

View attachment 619215

View attachment 619216

View attachment 619217

View attachment 619218

I did this as well, and I made up a quick disconnect harness for easy removal of the rear seat.

 

[cpwolf]

I also wanted to ask, has anyone put in a resetting breaker? This is a car audio resettable breaker. I like the idea of this better than carrying any large fuses etc. Just curious.

Also, I have never taken out the back seat, probably will never, so didn't need to set up a disconnect. Seems cool though.

 

[lBasket]

I also wanted to ask, has anyone put in a resetting breaker? This is a car audio resettable breaker. I like the idea of this better than carrying any large fuses etc. Just curious.

Also, I have never taken out the back seat, probably will never, so didn't need to set up a disconnect. Seems cool though.


View attachment 619323

I put one of these in a car to replace a fusible link. Works fine, the housing is kinda ass and doesn't hold the cable in very well IME

 

[TheBoogieman]

I did this as well, and I made up a quick disconnect harness for easy removal of the rear seat.

Didn't like the ex-wife's kids? I put airbags under their seats. BOOM!

 

[glowell222]

Didn't like the ex-wife's kids? I put airbags under their seats. BOOM!

Talk to me Goose!

 

[CreepinDeth]

I also wanted to ask, has anyone put in a resetting breaker? This is a car audio resettable breaker. I like the idea of this better than carrying any large fuses etc. Just curious.

Also, I have never taken out the back seat, probably will never, so didn't need to set up a disconnect. Seems cool though.


View attachment 619323

Always wiser to use a circuit breaker in place of a fuse. I have used those cylinder fuses for many years in my custom stereo builds, glad to see a CB option now

 

[CreepinDeth]

I put one of these in a car to replace a fusible link. Works fine, the housing is kinda ass and doesn't hold the cable in very well IME

Tin the wires or put a crimp on it

I know its a small investment , but they sell inexpensive crimp ferrule kits specifically for this task. Crimp these on, will hold like a pro
https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-168pcs-Ferrule-Connectors-Gauge/dp/B0D7ZS8X8W?tag=wranglerorg-20