Picked up an 04 TJ today and need some help!
- Thread starter JaysonB
- Start date
Isn't that defeating the purpose of buying adjustable control arms?
There is adjustable control arms in it now, but they we not properly maintained, and the Johnny Joints have play in them.
This old Jeep has been pretty neglected! I pulled the skid plate down, pulled the drive shafts, and all 6 u joints are pretty rough, pulled the front hubs, and front axles, one of the front wheels bearings is bad, and the axle u joints are shot. All of the control arms bolts came loose, so those are ready to swap out, I got the muffler and tail pipe off, and the flange on the converter cleaned up, so that’s ready for the new parts. For some reason I didn’t order ball joints, and the right side feels pretty tight, so I will probably have to get those coming as well. Most of the new parts will come in tomorrow, and Saturday, but I think the hard part is done, only 1 broken bolt so far, one of the bumper bolts that go up into the bottom of the frame.
Make sure you antisieze any bolt you take off a tj,you will be back.
I did the rears on mine a few years ago. Lot easier as it’s an Arizona Jeep. I’d soak all of those rusty bolts before taking them off. Also, a 1/2” impact wrench and a hexagonal socket is your best next friend. I supported the Jeep under the frame, jacked the rear axle up, and removed the tires. Lowered the axle enough not to over extend the shocks. Jacks under axle, the coil spring might push the axle back. Also, good opportunity to wire brush the rust, and apply POR-15 to the rusty bits. Second coat can be rattle can black.
For me this is one of those "while you're in there" opportunities... I don't remember if you have adjustable track bars, that will be pretty important to having your suspension correct, and if all your other bushings are roached I can't imagine your trackbar bushings not being roached as well.
Who knows what the P/O did when they installed your current adjustable C/A's.
There are youtube videos out there that show how to "string" your alignment that can get you pretty dialed in. Just takes a little patience
Who knows what the P/O did when they installed your current adjustable C/A's.
- I would check to make sure your wheels are square to the jeep and the axles centered side to side, before taking anything off. (find out what you are working with!) Plumb bobs work great to help with this.
- I'd have a couple bolts long enough to go through the old and new control arms laying next to each other on your work bench and use that to set the length, making sure both lowers match, and both uppers match.
When you start installing the control arms, if the holes don't line up try raising and lowering the axle, you can also use ratchet straps as well but I'd try moving them up and down first. Remember your axles are swinging on two arcs not going straight up and down, the trackbar arc, and the control arm arc.
- I'd have a couple bolts long enough to go through the old and new control arms laying next to each other on your work bench and use that to set the length, making sure both lowers match, and both uppers match.
- After getting all that set, and back on it's tires I'd check everything again.
- While it's on it's tires I'd also check the caster front, and pinion angle rear.
(Maybe P/O did you a favor and everything is square and set but I wouldn't count on it). - I'd also check my ball joints while doing all this as well.
- This is also a good time to make sure your toe in is set correctly as well. (make those new tires last!)
There are youtube videos out there that show how to "string" your alignment that can get you pretty dialed in. Just takes a little patience
For me this is one of those "while you're in there" opportunities... I don't remember if you have adjustable track bars, that will be pretty important to having your suspension correct, and if all your other bushings are roached I can't imagine your trackbar bushings not being roached as well.
Who knows what the P/O did when they installed your current adjustable C/A's.
This is just what I would do if it was my Jeep.
- I would check to make sure your wheels are square to the jeep and the axles centered side to side, before taking anything off. (find out what you are working with!) Plumb bobs work great to help with this.
- I'd have a couple bolts long enough to go through the old and new control arms laying next to each other on your work bench and use that to set the length, making sure both lowers match, and both uppers match.
When you start installing the control arms, if the holes don't line up try raising and lowering the axle, you can also use ratchet straps as well but I'd try moving them up and down first. Remember your axles are swinging on two arcs not going straight up and down, the trackbar arc, and the control arm arc.- After getting all that set, and back on it's tires I'd check everything again.
- While it's on it's tires I'd also check the caster front, and pinion angle rear.
(Maybe P/O did you a favor and everything is square and set but I wouldn't count on it).- I'd also check my ball joints while doing all this as well.
- This is also a good time to make sure your toe in is set correctly as well. (make those new tires last!)
There are youtube videos out there that show how to "string" your alignment that can get you pretty dialed in. Just takes a little patience
Thanks, it does have adjustable track bars on it, I will have to take a look at the bushings tonight. I did end up ordering up some new ball joints, and shocks last night. I have a Quick Trick alignment system, so when I get it back on the ground I will try and get everything dialed in. It was an hour and a half drive home with it last weekend, it drove pretty good, I’m kinda surprised how clapped out it is.
Thanks, it does have adjustable track bars on it, I will have to take a look at the bushings tonight. I did end up ordering up some new ball joints, and shocks last night. I have a Quick Trick alignment system, so when I get it back on the ground I will try and get everything dialed in. It was an hour and a half drive home with it last weekend, it drove pretty good, I’m kinda surprised how clapped out it is.
Yep,no need to take tjs anywhere,aligning is easy with the bolt on brackets and two identical tape measures .
Still have to get things dialed in, but it doesn’t drive too bad. I ended up doing all of the control arms, ball joints, axle u joints, front wheel bearings, the brakes front and rear, new drive shafts, changed the oil in the axles, transmission, and transfer case, and a new radiator and fan shroud. Has a little driveline vibration, and the tires are loud. I am going to finish rebuilding the factory front drive shaft, I feel like the new one is where my vibration might be coming from, it seemed like I had to over extend it a little to get it to bolt up. I still have to get it back in the garage and double check everything, and do an alignment.
I am going to finish rebuilding the factory front drive shaft, I feel like the new one is where my vibration might be coming from, it seemed like I had to over extend it a little to get it to bolt up. I still have to get it back in the garage and double check everything, and do an alignment.
Still have to get things dialed in, but it doesn’t drive too bad. I ended up doing all of the control arms, ball joints, axle u joints, front wheel bearings, the brakes front and rear, new drive shafts, changed the oil in the axles, transmission, and transfer case, and a new radiator and fan shroud. Has a little driveline vibration, and the tires are loud.
Wow you did a lot! Lookin' good!
You might try removing the front drive shaft, drive it around to see if the vibration went away. If it does see if you have a local drive line shop that will check the balance of it for you... and even then It could still be something else causing the vibration to be transferred into your front drive.
I'd also check the caster.
So is a small amount of vibration to be expected with a lifted jeep? The rear pinion angle is 1.5% lower than the drive shaft, the front drive shaft is 1%, and the caster is 5.7. That is all kinda where everything is supposed to be, correct?
alittleoff
TJ Addict
Another thing is to straighten out the fog lights. Any deviations in the precise aerodynamics will result in adverse and poorer fuel mileage.
YMMV
The TJ is looking sharp.
YMMV
The TJ is looking sharp.
I actually straightened them out on my lunch break this afternoon, the right bracket is a little tweaked, but we are much less cross-eyed now.
This evening I got the blown out speakers swapped out for some kickers, and put a 10” kicker behind the back seat in this “pod”. It sounds pretty good. There was a small kicker amp already wired up under the driver seat.
I triple checked the pinion angles, changed the rear to zero, not much difference, so I ordered up a set of Tom Wood’s drive shafts, hopefully that will take care of the minor vibrations. I got the wiring kit installed for the rear lights, and made some brackets for the tow bar mounts. I think it will be plenty strong, they are 3/16” and bolt through all 6 bumper mounting locations.
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