Overheating problem
- Thread starter Dvaniwaarden11
- Start date
And drill a small hole in your thermostat.
(Because you're going to replace that too, right?)
(Because you're going to replace that too, right?)
Did your Jeep overheat on the street or in traffic/idling? My Jeep only overheats at freeway speeds of 65+. It would be a relief to just have to change one part.
I will be when I replace the radiator. Probably going to do the pump as well, because fuck it, I’m already going to be pulling things apart and might as well work once instead of twice.
I read about drilling a hole in the stat. Where exactly do you drill a hole? And what is the purpose for that? I understand the mopar thermostats all came with a pre drilled hole.
I don't have an alternate yet but I'd never pay that for a Mopar when I can get a custom one done for the same price. We have used a Northern with great success. I don't like how much work it takes to install.
I hope that I don’t have that. Granted I have a new rebuilt engine with only 2,000 miles on it so if we did get to that point I’ve got a warranty on this motor.
When you used northern did you opt for a standard radiator or the high performance aluminum radiator?
No idea, post up links and I'll see if I can recognize what we used. It was around 500 at the time several years ago.
Everywhere but more so on highways, I think the culprit was the thermostat. If you install a new one, open a 1/8 hole just above it. I will attach a photo of when I made my change, where the hole was.
https://www.northernradiator.com/AUTOMOTIVE_-_LIGHT_TRUCK/JEEP/WRANGLER/1997?pageSize=200
They have a 4.0 standard one and then the aluminum one. No prices until you create an account I guess.
To allow trapped air out.
Not all thermostats need the hole drilled.
I'd recommend a Robert Shaw from Koolermaster. Already had a hole.
-Mac
I haven’t tested it yet but I’ll jack up the front end and take the radiator cap off to see if there’s any air trapped in the line. Because that could potentially be my problem as well.
The core support is the piece that is behind the grill, The headlights, radiator, and hood safety latch attach to it, Just make sure there are no gaps between it and the radiator, That way all the air going thru the grill is going thru the radiator and not around it.
Nope, in this case, the grill shell is the core support. It is a unitized structure in the TJ. Circled holes are where the radiator mounts.
If I let the Jeep warm up with the radiator cap off, would I be able to see the level going down to show me that the thermostat was opening?
If you start from cold, the coolant will not be moving very much in the radiator. When the thermostat opens, you can see that change.
Got it. I’ll let it run for a good 20 minutes when I get home to test it out. (I’ll wait till it’s cold first though to take the cap off)
Just took the Jeep on the freeway to try and replicate my issues. With AC full blast driving in 5th gear I got it to overheat. Top of the radiator was 245-50 degrees. Top hose was 260. Sat on the side of the highway for 10 minutes and it went back down to 215-220 from being at 240 when I stopped.
This give anyone some lightbulbs going off? Or is it just a bum radiator? Could my thermostat not be engaging? If my thermostat wasn’t engaging my top hose wouldn’t be that hot right?
The mechanic that did my engine swap keeps thinking it’s my winch blocking my radiator, but that still doesn’t seem right to me.
This give anyone some lightbulbs going off? Or is it just a bum radiator? Could my thermostat not be engaging? If my thermostat wasn’t engaging my top hose wouldn’t be that hot right?
The mechanic that did my engine swap keeps thinking it’s my winch blocking my radiator, but that still doesn’t seem right to me.
It only overheats on the hwy.
It's either the winch blocking the rad, or a combination of the winch blocking the rad and an aftermarket rad.
Maybe a different rad would bring it down some, but there's no way to know until you stab in another radiator.
Take a photo dead on from the front center of the grill and look at how much of the grill is blocked by the winch.
Or, remove the winch and do your test drive and compare temps.
It's either the winch blocking the rad, or a combination of the winch blocking the rad and an aftermarket rad.
Maybe a different rad would bring it down some, but there's no way to know until you stab in another radiator.
Take a photo dead on from the front center of the grill and look at how much of the grill is blocked by the winch.
Or, remove the winch and do your test drive and compare temps.
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