Looking for input on why upper and lower control arms aren’t lining up with brackets

[mrproff97]

Hi sorry if this post is out of place. I’m looking for input on why my upper and lower control arms aren’t lining up to their brackets.(They are lacking roughly an inch)

I’ve got the replacement trail arm mounted and have measured from trail arm to trail arm as well as to the body mount nearest the trail arm (pictures included)

I haven’t welded anything yet but I am thinking it’s axel sag perhaps? It’s sat for about a year with the control arms and sway bar linkage disconnected with driver side axel supported on a jack stand. My solution if this is the case is to pull the axel closer to the trail arm via ratchet strap lol.

All advice welcome just want to cover all my bases before I make a semi permanent mistake

 

[XCRN]

Having to ratchet strap an axle into place is pretty typical when doing control arms.

 

[lBasket]

Rost

 

[macleanflood]

Or lift the pinion to rotate the axle with a jack.

-Mac

 

[OldBuzzard]

Your rear springs should give you a clue. The axle is a couple inches back from where it should sit. And apparently, the rear of the Jeep is only supported by that disconnected axle and springy springs. I wouldn't crawl under that thing for a million bucks.

Support the frame. Lower the axle to reduce spring pressure so you can push it forward.

 

[mrproff97]

Your rear springs should give you a clue. The axle is a couple inches back from where it should sit. And apparently, the rear of the Jeep is only supported by that disconnected axle and springy springs. I wouldn't crawl under that thing for a million bucks.

Support the frame. Lower the axle to reduce spring pressure so you can push it forward.

Will do thanks for the input

 

[mrproff97]

Rost

Having to ratchet strap an axle into place is pretty typical when doing control arms.

I thought I was just clever. Will do, thanks for the response.

 

[mrproff97]

Or lift the pinion to rotate the axle with a jack.

-Mac

Given my access to tools and the gravel this might be the harder route, but I’ll keep it in mind. Thanks for the response.

 

[sab]

And please get rid of the cinder blocks. We don't want to lose a forum member. They are very sketchy to use for holding a vehicle up.

 

[jjvw]

And please get rid of the cinder blocks. We don't want to lose a forum member. They are very sketchy to use for holding a vehicle up.

That orientation is specifically the most dangerous way to put a jack stand on a cinder block. Concrete easily breaks under tension and the entire thing collapses.

 

[sab]

That orientation is specifically the most dangerous way to put a jack stand on a cinder block. Concrete easily breaks under tension and the entire thing collapses.

I don't ever bring that up because there's no safe way to use cinder blocks. They are an accident waiting to happen...

 

[XCRN]

I thought I was just clever. Will do, thanks for the response.

I think you were, you figured out the solution on your own intuition, sounds clever to me!

 

[macleanflood]

I've done plenty of rolling around in gravel. I've done transmissions, engines and a tub and frame swap. Recently built a shop.

A 4x8 sheet of OSB makes things a lot more comfortable. I prefer dimensional lumber for cribbing. An off-road jack like Harbor Freight makes or 911 Racing's conversion kit for the HF 2 ton.

I have a collection of scissor jacks I've stripped off cars over the years...a simple scissor jack on a couple of 2x4s or 2x6s will easily lift the axle under the pinion.

You could even lift it by tapping in chainsaw wedges.

-Mac

 

[CMBD]

Cant point you to it, but I am certain that there is a section in a manual somewhere that gives relationship dimensions between what you are looking at and other locations on the frame. Good body shops have it for sure.

You are going to have to get within .0something" to those location dimensions before you burn anything in.

If you cant, just stop now.

 

[jonny jeep]

If you add up the dimensions along the frame, the distance between the centers of the upper control arm bolt holes (5) and (10) should be 1453mm.
In inches that's 57.204" or 57 + 13/64" in fractional inches.

The diagram below is from an 03-06 FSM. On early models the position of the center skid bolt (7) may be different. So, the measurement from 6-7 and 7-8 may change but the totals from 5-10 will be the same.