LJ - 4" lift necessities

[roverhi]

You need a body lift to do a tummy tuck in the future. Reducing the dirt scoop depth is at the top of my improvement list. You would add 4" or more ground clearance and most importantly raise the break over hang up issues which the additional wheel base adds to the LJ. Might want to remove the lowering pucks on the shovel as a test to see if there is any vibration and done in less than an hour on a non rust belt truck. 2" of drop sounds like a TJ specific part that the TJ's short/high angle drive shaft often needs in lieu of an SYE. With the longer/lower angle drive shaft may get by without the lowering pucks or an SYE. Adding a 1" motor mount with a body lift also might cure any vibrations as it reduces the angle of the drive shaft by a little.

search. Link to Rock Jock Steering drag link and Tie rod, the gold standard for steering improvement.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Good ideas! Both solid choices.

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View attachment 435530

OP - before you take advice from this guy, ask him what happenned about 30 seconds after I took this picture…



Just kidding Jeremy…

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I plan to go to the heavy duty Rubicon Express Y steering upgrade. I'll also go to chromoly axles at some point too. If like to stay away from a body lift if possible. It barely rubbed with 3" of lift, I was hoping to get away with adding another inch to the springs. I'm not opposed to a SYE and drive shafts if needed

I'd go with almost any inverted-Y design steering kit that was stronger but having personal experience with RE I would take them off my short-list. You would never regret going with the Currectlync Heavy Duty Steering Kit from https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701 which can be found cheaper at other online sources including Amazon.

And there's not a thing wrong with a small body lift of 1" to 1.25" which adds more tire clearance without also raising the COG as much as a 1" taller suspension lift does.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

I'd go with almost any inverted-Y design steering kit that was stronger but having personal experience with RE I would take them off my short-list. You would never regret going with the Currectlync Heavy Duty Steering Kit from https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701 which can be found cheaper at other online sources including Amazon.

And there's not a thing wrong with a small body lift of 1" to 1.25" which adds more tire clearance without also raising the COG as much as a 1" taller suspension lift does.

To start off I'm going to go with the currectlync steering, savvy 1.25" body lift, and the MORE motor mounts that are extended by 1". Since I barely rubbed the plastic with what I do, I'm going to start there. It's likely that in the long run I'll change the springs, shocks, install a SYE and driveshafts, but for now I'll try this for the summer. Is it likely that I will be able to remove the tcase drop by increasing the motor mount height?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Is it likely that I will be able to remove the tcase drop by increasing the motor mount height?

Yes, they do the same thing, decreasing the angle between the transfer case output shaft and rear driveshaft, but in different ways. The MML just does it in a way that both increases the ground clearance by not needing the tcase drop and increasing the engine oil pan's ground clearance... a win-win situation.

 

[jjvw]

To start off I'm going to go with the currectlync steering, savvy 1.25" body lift, and the MORE motor mounts that are extended by 1". Since I barely rubbed the plastic with what I do, I'm going to start there. It's likely that in the long run I'll change the springs, shocks, install a SYE and driveshafts, but for now I'll try this for the summer. Is it likely that I will be able to remove the tcase drop by increasing the motor mount height?

Keep the factory rubber motor mounts and use a lift block. The isolation from vibration is better.

If you buy the Black Magic Brake body lift, it will ship and you will receive it in a reasonable amount of time. The function is identical to Savvy. And you will support the guy who designed both.

 

[mousehunter]

My LJ came with 35's and a failing 4" lift. I replaced them with 33's - and a fully adjustable 4" lift. They way I looked at it, it takes 4" to get full articulation with 33's. If I want more tire, I will lift the body then. That said, If (big if) I go all in, will probably put the body lifts in anyway to get a tummy tuck. Then who knows - maybe someday I will use those 35's again. No, cause if I go all in - I am doing it to get better than stock articulation (bigger tires still will not fit - I will just have more throw with the 33's).

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Yes, they do the same thing, decreasing the angle between the transfer case output shaft and rear driveshaft, but in different ways. The MML just does it in a way that both increases the ground clearance by not needing the tcase drop and increasing the engine oil pan's ground clearance... a win-win situation.

That's great! I ordered the 1.25" Black Magic Brake body lift and some motor mount blocks. Do I need anything for the fuel filler or steering shaft?

 

[gatertamer]

I run a bigger lift and I didn’t. I think that’s why most say here go no bigger than 1 1/4 body lift

 

[JMT]

That's great! I ordered the 1.25" Black Magic Brake body lift and some motor mount blocks. Do I need anything for the fuel filler or steering shaft?

Just loosen the gas tank filler tube on the tank and work it till you get it long enough to reach the new location.

Steering shaft will probably be fine. I only rarely see someone buy the bracket.

 

[jjvw]

... Do I need anything for the fuel filler or steering shaft?

No

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Thank you everyone who gave me info on getting this straightened out. I truly appreciate it.

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

I added the black magic brake body lift and jks motor mount lift. That allowed me to get rid of the transfer case drop. I drove it above 55 mph with no unusual vibrations. My currectlync steering is coming today, and my teraflex belly up skid should be here Monday. My plan is to install those on Wednesday. I'm going to use the alignment info from this forum to do the toe in using square tubing and clamps. I did have some issue getting 4 low adjusted so it wouldn't pop out or grind when being engaged, but I think I may have got it (I'll have to do it again with the belly up pan anyways). I don't hate the aesthetics of the body lift as much as I thought I would. Before and after photos included (before no doors).

 

[Thomas-2005-LJ]

Final update on the changes. I added the belly up skid plate and the currectlync steering. The PO had cut the exhaust at the transfer case, so right after I bought it I had an exhaust built for it. The shop had tucked it up close to the body for clearance (good at the time). With the belly up, the exhaust was extremely close to the body. The Jeep also got a bit of a vibration right around 2000 rpm's (I'm sure it's the pinion angle). I added the tcase drop back on it (still about 2" more clearance than stock) until I can cut the exhaust mount and reweld it, as well as get a SYE and new drive shafts. I'll likely rebuild the tcase then too and install chromoly axles. It'll give me some things to look forward to this winter. As for tire clearance, the body lift and adjusting the bump stops seems to have given me the room to not rub with what I do.
Thank you all again.