Would you say that would be better than FHA straps? Do they get installed with Tico type nails or screws?
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Kitchen / laundry remodel
- Thread starter B1Toad
- Start date
Would you say that would be better than FHA straps? Do they get installed with Tico type nails or screws?
You are correct- And you are smart to be attentive to the aligning of the framing because sheetrock only replicate that.
Older construction methods were basically corrective.
Very little of that is employed into days typical work.
Simpson will probably say you’re going to do best with the short nails that they sell-
I don’t have the education or the experience to tell you which one is better.
I do love the fact that you’re paying attention.
Indeed. You'll probably recall they downgraded the structural values on a lot of framing lumber some years back, and that's the reason why. The timber industry demand continues to increase and what's left of old-growth forests are being protected, which leads to harvesting of younger and younger trees.
Looks like the manufacturer specs 10d x1 1/2" minimum. Pretty common size for lumber hangers, hurricane clips and other hardware.
https://www.siouxchief.com/docs/def...533-series---stud-support-bracket---stud-shoe
Having been around construction I saw and learned a lot about the other trades and even though I have friends who are framers I never really did any framing but I know enough to know how it should look when done properly. I have another friend who draws and knows all the structural stuff just a phone call away. I really appreciate all the help and ideas I get here as well.
Here in the City of Tucson I've been told we didn't have a real building dept and code inspections till sometime in the 1960's. I spoke to one old timer a few years back who built his own house in the 60's, he said all he did was pay $7.50 for the permit then built it. He never saw or heard from anyone. When he told me "seven-fifty" I though he meant $750.00 but he meant $7.50!
The real winner is James Hardie building products.
New growth Lumber will not last more than a few years in an exterior climate. The older stuff would last upwards of a century.
Legendary framer Larry Haun and his brother and another person would buy the lumber directly off the trucks from Oregon back in the postwar boom and would build a little prewar tiny houses in the California desert in three days.
They would put parrafin in a bucket of gas and put the nails in that and then pour off the gas. This is how they made a coated nail. Awesome guys.
Ran around getting materials today then I set up 5 string lines to determine how much sag there was on my joists. I spaced the string down 1" at the end joists and measured sag at 5 points along each joist, the worst was a couple in the middle at 7/8" total sag in the middle. Then I realized if the first and last joist were sagged it would throw everything off so I got out the laser and found joist number 1 to be sagged a total of 1/4" in the middle. I found joist number 10 to be straight with no sag, however it is out of level by 5/8".
So I can adjust joist #10, and I'm guessing I should attach a 2x4 to #1 and bring it down to match my lowest joist then put 2x4s on all the rest to make it all equal?
I still have my cutting and heading off to do and won't try to level things out till that is finished, but I didn't want to start that late in the day so I decided to check the joists in preparation for what I'll have to do to make the drywall flat.
Note: An 11th Joist to be added to this edge then drywall will wrap around and up to meet window sill. The new joist will reach both bearing walls.
So I can adjust joist #10, and I'm guessing I should attach a 2x4 to #1 and bring it down to match my lowest joist then put 2x4s on all the rest to make it all equal?
I still have my cutting and heading off to do and won't try to level things out till that is finished, but I didn't want to start that late in the day so I decided to check the joists in preparation for what I'll have to do to make the drywall flat.
Note: An 11th Joist to be added to this edge then drywall will wrap around and up to meet window sill. The new joist will reach both bearing walls.
Found this on Fine Homebuilding, looks like the way to go although I'm not sold on steel studs and would rather go with 2x4s. I wonder how much of a challenge it would be to find straight 14 foot 2x4s? Of course a little crown could probably be straightened as they are fastened? I also wonder how much sag would be noticeable, there are no cabinets along either side of the room that will run the same direction as the joists but both walls perpendicular to the joists will have floor to ceiling or base and uppers to ceiling so those ends need to be flat. We're going to leave a small gap at the ceiling above the cabinets, no crown molding.
Oh well they were a little snug anyway.
Things are moving along although slow. Can"t get the cabinet guy to return my calls so the plumbing is being held up till he gets us final measurements. Framing is mostly finished and I spent a couple days getting the fire place wall as plumb as possible as we're having it tiled, it was pretty bad and also leans outward about 1/4" from bottom to top. I ground off all the joint compound and got to the original flat plaster.
Got the hood vent made and installed in the wall and the dryer box.
I also spent 3 days with a demolition hammer, shovel with the handle cut off, buckets and a wheelbarrow clearing out under the house to make the kitchen plumbing accessible, mainly the gas line which needs to be put inside the wall and go under the house to supply the fire place and to the kitchen and laundry for the dual fuel range and the clothes dryer. Will also add an electric dryer circuit.
Getting to some of the electrical, demoed all the existing for a fresh start. Installed a sub panel today at the East end of the house to take those circuits out of my over-crowded 100 amp sub panel in the laundry so now that one will have plenty of room. Also need to put the feeder in conduit as it was done with THWNs and no conduit from the 200 amp main, now is the time.
I also made a cardboard mock up so we could see how everything "fits".
It's starting to cool off here at night so next I'll insulate as right now it's open to the attic.
Got the hood vent made and installed in the wall and the dryer box.
I also spent 3 days with a demolition hammer, shovel with the handle cut off, buckets and a wheelbarrow clearing out under the house to make the kitchen plumbing accessible, mainly the gas line which needs to be put inside the wall and go under the house to supply the fire place and to the kitchen and laundry for the dual fuel range and the clothes dryer. Will also add an electric dryer circuit.
Getting to some of the electrical, demoed all the existing for a fresh start. Installed a sub panel today at the East end of the house to take those circuits out of my over-crowded 100 amp sub panel in the laundry so now that one will have plenty of room. Also need to put the feeder in conduit as it was done with THWNs and no conduit from the 200 amp main, now is the time.
I also made a cardboard mock up so we could see how everything "fits".
It's starting to cool off here at night so next I'll insulate as right now it's open to the attic.
Like the dishwasher. Beats stainless!
thats the range! I made the oven door openable so we could see how the island spacing works
Finally got the location of the sink so I spent today with a grinder and a chipping hammer removing the inner layer of brick from the double brick wall to make a cavity in which to recess the plumbing. I had planned on going 2 courses higher but after removing the plaster I saw a rowlock course at 16" so not wanting to mess with that I stopped at 16" and put in a lintel then added 2 sides of pressure treated for attaching stub out boards to and the outlet box for the dishwasher.
The height will still work for the trap adapter but fitting in a cleanout will be tight. (The vent stack is in the adjacent wall since this wall is all window.)
The sink is a single bowl with a standard offset drain so my trap adapter will be centered on the 4th pencil line from the left (where it says switch) and the 3 pencil lines left of that will be hot, cold and ice maker. I will have an ice maker box behind the fridge supplied with PEX but I need a way to turn it off easily so I will have it stubbed out next to the cold then I can put an angle stop on it and feed it from a double outlet angle stop on the cold stub out and a supply line. This also leaves the option of an under sink filter instead of depending on the one internal to the fridge which will be a special one and likely pretty expensive and who knows what the quality is, and for how long it will be available?
Tomorrow I'm cutting the masonry wall for the receptacle boxes and wire, then I'll be finished with the really dusty work and back to my electric. (Fortunately the other walls are framed.)
The height will still work for the trap adapter but fitting in a cleanout will be tight. (The vent stack is in the adjacent wall since this wall is all window.)
The sink is a single bowl with a standard offset drain so my trap adapter will be centered on the 4th pencil line from the left (where it says switch) and the 3 pencil lines left of that will be hot, cold and ice maker. I will have an ice maker box behind the fridge supplied with PEX but I need a way to turn it off easily so I will have it stubbed out next to the cold then I can put an angle stop on it and feed it from a double outlet angle stop on the cold stub out and a supply line. This also leaves the option of an under sink filter instead of depending on the one internal to the fridge which will be a special one and likely pretty expensive and who knows what the quality is, and for how long it will be available?
Tomorrow I'm cutting the masonry wall for the receptacle boxes and wire, then I'll be finished with the really dusty work and back to my electric. (Fortunately the other walls are framed.)
I need to level out this 9 feet of concrete sill so the countertop guy can put his quartz up there. I was thinking I'd screw some wood to the front edge (along the wall) wall to act as both a dam and a level then fill it in with Pour Stone or a similar product unless anyone has a better idea or knows of a better self leveling product for concrete. Maybe just a floor leveling product, I don't know why it would have to be a concrete product. The quartz will cover the entire area from the counter top to the sill with another piece on top of the sill. @AndyG ?
This looks promising
https://www.ctscement.com/product/concrete-leveler
This looks promising
https://www.ctscement.com/product/concrete-leveler
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First seal the window connection at the concrete and let it cure- a good latex caulk is ok or use polyurethane if you need a faster cure- air loss is a reality.
Then vacuum it
Prime it if required
Dam it with tapcons and a 1x, dead level
Caulk the dam to the wall if needed to prevent flow out
Fill er up
Or set the top and the splash then use spray foam misted with water to make it kick and trim it even and set the sill.
Elevation is key on that set up- watch the crank handle rotation clearance.
You can also set the splash and then use mortar then the sill-
Your house is non typical but your attentive mindset and thorough work is showing through.
Phones on in am tomorrow if ya need me.
Your pal,
Andy G
Thanks Andy, I knew you'd come through! I'll take the 1X to my friend who has a huge 3 phase table saw so we can make sure one edge is perfectly straight.
I'm attaching a few pics of the finished wet wall, compare it to the pics in posts #18 and 48. The stud shoes were a great idea. Since that wall was getting furred out anyway what I ended up doing was buying 2X6's and ripping them into 2X5's giving me more meat on each side of the plumbing. I also drilled the DWV holes and assembled the pipe as I went instead of notching so now there is solid wood on both sides of the holes in addition to doubling up on all the studs.
It comes in handy when you're the same person doing 3 trades at once, you can accommodate each trade as you go.
I'm attaching a few pics of the finished wet wall, compare it to the pics in posts #18 and 48. The stud shoes were a great idea. Since that wall was getting furred out anyway what I ended up doing was buying 2X6's and ripping them into 2X5's giving me more meat on each side of the plumbing. I also drilled the DWV holes and assembled the pipe as I went instead of notching so now there is solid wood on both sides of the holes in addition to doubling up on all the studs.
It comes in handy when you're the same person doing 3 trades at once, you can accommodate each trade as you go.
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I also did the gas line. One of my plumber friends stopped by and did all the PEX as I didn't want to learn that and invest in PEX tools at this time. I also built a second floor in the attic above where the 2x4 floor was for added insulation above the laundry. Instead of 4" for insulation I now have 9". I got rid of the pull down ladder and made a 22 x 32 access giving me more ceiling area for lighting and a much better seal, that ladder was junk.
Have you had one of these before? I installed one when I redid my kitchen many moons ago, completely useless piece of overpriced shit, turned out to be a really expensive microwave oven only. It lasted 20 years so I'll give it that, but damn I thought the technology sucked ass
Well I told the wife that the convection part would probably not be very good based on the one in the RV which is useless. The microwave part works good though. This may push me to look for a 240 volt model. GE used to make one but now they are all 120V. I think the only 240 options are Miele and maybe Bosch.
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