Kitchen / laundry remodel
- Thread starter B1Toad
- Start date
It involved all of about an extra 15 feet of 4" in leu of 2" pipe - the cost difference in materials is negligible.
It is, If I was single I'd fix the ceiling and call it a day....but I'm not
We're getting our house paid off next year. When I told my wife she said, "great, we'll have extra money to remodel."
Can anyone recommend an air nailer for door casings/base and small, thin cabinet trims? Also some 1/4" and 1/2" fur out strips to make my drywall even with the old, thick plaster. I'd prefer pneumatic since I already have air and since I'll probably never use it again after this remodel is finished I don't need anything expensive. How's the Harbor Freight stuff?
Is there one that could nail door casings/baseboards etc yet still do small, delicate trims without splitting them or am I looking at a brad nailer and a finish nailer both?
Is there one that could nail door casings/baseboards etc yet still do small, delicate trims without splitting them or am I looking at a brad nailer and a finish nailer both?
Get a 16 gauge straight finish nailer for the bigger moldings and an 18 gauge Brad nailer for the small
If they are really small get 23 gauge pin nailer too
The best I’ve ever used is the Dewalt- As far as accuracy. They have a different safety design that allows you to be insanely accurate with the nail placement.
Remember anything that goes more than a half inch into the wood is just hard on the gun as far as fastener length.
For strips I would get quarter inch luaun and get a table saw and ripped out a bunch of inch and a half- Then just double as necessary
The tricky part is the studs are not out of plane the entire distance up and down so you really have to have multiple strings. You can shoot them with the trim gun- They really end up fastened ultimately by the drywall.
If they are really small get 23 gauge pin nailer too
The best I’ve ever used is the Dewalt- As far as accuracy. They have a different safety design that allows you to be insanely accurate with the nail placement.
Remember anything that goes more than a half inch into the wood is just hard on the gun as far as fastener length.
For strips I would get quarter inch luaun and get a table saw and ripped out a bunch of inch and a half- Then just double as necessary
The tricky part is the studs are not out of plane the entire distance up and down so you really have to have multiple strings. You can shoot them with the trim gun- They really end up fastened ultimately by the drywall.
Thanks, the luan is a good idea. one side needs 1/2" and another side needs 1/4". Then I have 3 studs (2x4) in a row that got hacked pretty bad for a 2" laundry sink drain pipe and that's a bearing wall holding up the kitchen ceiling. 1 stud is totally trashed and 2 more are notched about 2/3rds thru. I'll get some FHA straps to put over the notches plus I have room to add 2x4s or 2x6s perpendicular (turned so the wide dimension faces out to the drywall) from the bottom plate to the top plate and nail thru the damaged ones into the new ones all the way up.
Originally it was only 2 notched from the original construction but I had a plumber move the laundry sink farther to the right and they notched a third one, plus they moved the washer box over and cut into that first one that was already notched for the old 2" steel drain pipe. They replaced everything with ABS and PEX at that time and I foamed to keep mice and bugs from coming into the bays from the crawl space. I'm thinking about moving the washer box back where it will be accessible so we can shut off the valves when traveling. There will be a 12" base cabinet between the pedestal washer and dryer and it would be right above that. I know most people would want to hide that but I don't see the point, it's a utility room.
If I move the washer box back to the left that would give me the opportunity to cut the pipe and drill a new stud to slide over the pipe, but with a 2" pipe there just isn't going to be much left even then.
If I move the washer box back to the left that would give me the opportunity to cut the pipe and drill a new stud to slide over the pipe, but with a 2" pipe there just isn't going to be much left even then.
For your sake, I do hope that's a non-bearing partition.
nope. load bearing w/double top plate and two of the cuts have been there since the house was built in 1952. Have some options for repair and will wait to see what Andy says. A 6" wall would have been nice but I don't see any good way to do that now.
Safe to assume you don't have the space to fur out a 2x4 non-bearing "wet wall" of sorts to shift the bulk (not all) of the plumbing to in your planned renovations? That would allow you to shore up that bearing wall a bit.
These add a lot of strength.
shown in the wrong orientation in the picture- They mount to the face of the stud.
shown in the wrong orientation in the picture- They mount to the face of the stud.
It’s hard to say- But you could take a little bit off the stud and still make it stronger
I want to give you guys a real picture of what it’s like being a contractor-
I have a top that somebody put finish on that was not ready for it
I have a customer with an outlet tripping the breaker and trying to catch fire- Right this minute
We have some vicious dogs keeping us out of the garage
A worker trying to figure out what material to load
Two young men that needs supervision on something as simple as cleaning up a job
You can’t train them because everything cost of the changes and they don’t know what to keep and throw away and they’ll do something stupid like get grit down a downdraft vent
We have a large format shower that the material has been broken for times either before or during installation- Uncollectible job
Honestly looking on this thread is a welcome distraction..
I have a top that somebody put finish on that was not ready for it
I have a customer with an outlet tripping the breaker and trying to catch fire- Right this minute
We have some vicious dogs keeping us out of the garage
A worker trying to figure out what material to load
Two young men that needs supervision on something as simple as cleaning up a job
You can’t train them because everything cost of the changes and they don’t know what to keep and throw away and they’ll do something stupid like get grit down a downdraft vent
We have a large format shower that the material has been broken for times either before or during installation- Uncollectible job
Honestly looking on this thread is a welcome distraction..
Mine appear to be slightly larger than new 2x4s but not as big as true rough cut? 1-11/16" X 3-1/2 to 3-5/8"
That's about correct for the era your house was built (believe you mentioned 1952).
Rather unfortunately, the dimensioned lumber available today can still be a bit off the mark, depending on the mill. I'm having issues on a current job at work due to this very thing.
Last edited:
Notice the amount of growth rings in the old ones vs. the newer. That tells you a lot.
Similar threads
