Did you fully wrap your catalytic converter? Everything I've read on the subject said that you shouldn't wrap more than 660% of it.
https://heatshieldproducts.com/product/automotive/heatshield-armor/catalytic-converter-heat-shield/
It just happened!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
Did you fully wrap your catalytic converter? Everything I've read on the subject said that you shouldn't wrap more than 660% of it.
https://heatshieldproducts.com/product/automotive/heatshield-armor/catalytic-converter-heat-shield/
Test drove the Jeep today, after pinion angle adjustments and heat shield installation. Driveline vibrations are gone and the transmission ran 20 degrees cooler.
Driving yesterday, there was a noticeable increase in vibrations. When doing an inspection, I found that the exhaust had dropped onto the rear Savvy skid brace. Also found that one of the bolts for that brace was hitting hard on a corner of the 241. The brace was pulled and clearanced for the exhaust, and the offending bolt was cut down to clear the transfer case.
I find it remarkable how we become in "tune" with our Jeeps in that the slightest change in pitch, noise, vibration sends us into a mad fury to find the source. New noises raise the hair on the back of my neck, especially coming off the trail!
nice work...
nice work...
Soft top is back on the Jeep for the first time in several years. Hard Top is stored up safely and will likely reside there for a while. Removing the hard top on the TJ was easy by myself but not so much on the LJ. 
Also did some cleaning and removed the stock rear seat. In its place is a hybrid JK upper and TJ lower seat. This gives anyone sitting in the back a higher backrest and headrests. While this hybrid seat does fold down, it sacrifices the "tumble" forward function. Given I don't use that in the LJ, it's no loss for me.
I need to make one of these for the kids. Looks great!
I bought a used Yukon small hub kit several years ago that was being kept in reserve for the set that went on the TJ. Since the TJ is now under my son's care, and I'm not happy with the driveline vibrations, I've pulled the used set out, disassembled and checked it, and will be installing it on the LJ. Before doing so, I'll need to order a set of longer wheel studs to press in. The set that's in there now is about a 1/2" short for the thicker mounting surface for the wheels.
The auto radiator works for both. It just has ports on the bottom to cool a transmission.your jeep won't care if they aren't hooked up
Thanks…. Are the ports potential points to leak in the future. Are you doing anything special to plug them up?
Saw someone post info about Champion Radiators. I’ll try to find that post, but I’m not doing a very good job at navigating here yet…. LOL!
I’m not familiar with Champion, but think they are all metal, 2 row and possible designed with manuals in mind???, since they are geared to the racing community???
I’m not familiar with Champion, but think they are all metal, 2 row and possible designed with manuals in mind???, since they are geared to the racing community???
Don’t get that! The Koyorad for auto will work fine. The auto ports will come plugged.
@Irun - Thank you for all this wonderful information.
I’m new to the forum and have jumped into your thread towards its current end because I was searching through the forum for a radiator that was considered high quality to replace my existing radiator in a 2005 4.0L manual. You list both the A2798 and the A2102 as solid. Both are quite different in geometry and outlet size. According to the Koyorad website, the A2798 is not designed for Jeep, but the A2102 is….
To say your builds are on another level and insane, would be an understatement. And to retrofit anything would be a minor undertaking for you. I am curious why you choose A2798 as an option for one of your rebuilds. Did you need the room? Did you have to supplement an A2798 with additional cooling because of the smaller/thinner design?
IOW, if you were just replacing an existing radiator for a Jeep that would see mostly daily driving and only minor dirty playtime and wanted the better or best Koyorad for the vehicle for your money, would you choose the A2798 over the A2102, or vice versa?
If @Irun is not available for an answer, I’d be appreciative of any members’ responses and ideas.
I’m new to the forum and have jumped into your thread towards its current end because I was searching through the forum for a radiator that was considered high quality to replace my existing radiator in a 2005 4.0L manual. You list both the A2798 and the A2102 as solid. Both are quite different in geometry and outlet size. According to the Koyorad website, the A2798 is not designed for Jeep, but the A2102 is….
To say your builds are on another level and insane, would be an understatement. And to retrofit anything would be a minor undertaking for you. I am curious why you choose A2798 as an option for one of your rebuilds. Did you need the room? Did you have to supplement an A2798 with additional cooling because of the smaller/thinner design?
IOW, if you were just replacing an existing radiator for a Jeep that would see mostly daily driving and only minor dirty playtime and wanted the better or best Koyorad for the vehicle for your money, would you choose the A2798 over the A2102, or vice versa?
If @Irun is not available for an answer, I’d be appreciative of any members’ responses and ideas.
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