We can't see the bottom end that was heated with a torch and reshaped to fit it's new home.
Highline fenders
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We can't see the bottom end that was heated with a torch and reshaped to fit it's new home.
I have 3 buddys that have the nicest bamboo printers and even sell a lot of prints. Almost always do I ask for the same print with a quantity of 3 or 4 bc it always breaks. Rc car stuff, gun stuff, car stuff, around the house stuff.
The only thing that hasn’t broken is an insert for my center console tha was intended to put a sub in the main compartment and have storage from the insert. It’s about 1/4inch thick tpu. So far tpu is the only thing I’ve seen last.
The only thing that hasn’t broken is an insert for my center console tha was intended to put a sub in the main compartment and have storage from the insert. It’s about 1/4inch thick tpu. So far tpu is the only thing I’ve seen last.
I have the Nemesis fenders and have generally been pretty happy with them.
They come with brackets to re-locate everything under the hood with the exception of the earlier charcoal canister. Mine is back in the rear wheel well so I’m not sure what their solution is for the under the hood unit on the earlier models.
It comes with brackets to mount everything else though, vacuum canister, cruise servo, evap solenoid, factory washer reservoir, horn, etc. The early style required the use of an Optima battery but they have since redesigned the battery box to fit any group 34 battery. I’d recommend calling or emailing them first though if you are buying to make sure you’re getting the new battery box.
They offer a more complete solution than others I’ve seen.
They come with brackets to re-locate everything under the hood with the exception of the earlier charcoal canister. Mine is back in the rear wheel well so I’m not sure what their solution is for the under the hood unit on the earlier models.
It comes with brackets to mount everything else though, vacuum canister, cruise servo, evap solenoid, factory washer reservoir, horn, etc. The early style required the use of an Optima battery but they have since redesigned the battery box to fit any group 34 battery. I’d recommend calling or emailing them first though if you are buying to make sure you’re getting the new battery box.
They offer a more complete solution than others I’ve seen.
Yeah, it’s drawing from just above the headlight. Link below. I drilled a 2” hole but learned a 2.5” hole can fit there, but I haven’t had any trouble getting enough air to the engine, so not sure it matters much one way or the other. After this post I did end up shortening the silicone tube so the stock air tube wouldn’t cover the oil cap on top of the engine and so now it’s a bit better, but this is the original post.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/the-silver-fox-lj-build.86713/post-1808365
I think the hardest things about that battery tray are 1) getting the + terminal away from the fender. That can be fixed by turning the battery around, but then you really need to get new battery cables so everything reaches the terminal it needs to and is clean and organized. 2) bracing the upper portion of the battery tray since it’s only being held on by the two nuts and two bolts down below to the firewall. There’s nothing on the fender side, so you can either do like Blaine has shown and use a strap from the tray to the firewall up high or you can attach the battery tray to the inner fender. I bolted mine to the inner fender through a block of aluminum that fit perfectly in that space. Otherwise, the stress down below on the firewall can cause it to tear out the bolts.
Is Nemesis still in business?i e never heard of the (aluminum overlay)looks pretty cool.
They were as of a couple of weeks ago when I talked to Rob about the new battery tray.
Working for me, weird. Either way, the TJ stuff on their website is horribly out of date and descriptions non-existent. I’d suggest emailing them to get the current drawings of their products you’re interested in. They’ve had some design updates on their highlines and flares that aren’t on the website. Notably on the break in the fender near where it mounts to the firewall and also the mounting to the grill.
One nice thing about them though, they’ll make a custom length corner or flare for you at a pretty reasonable price. I had my flares made in a different length than their offerings and it was only $100 extra for the customization.
What filaments are you seeing breakage from? I would be interested if its ABS, NYLON, PLA, ETC.
All of them. Placf too. Anything that you would initially think of being a metal thing I wouldn’t even try to print something for it. If you’re thinking of an injection molded plastic for something you might get away with a printed part given a little more reinforcement and the proper printed material and process.
ButtersJeep
New Member
Hi fam, long time lurker, short time member. It’s also time for me to update my fenders, and while I’m considering just buying some repop or style, I also really like the concept of the flat front fenders. I looked at a couple different ones, but seems like I would need to do some cutting to install them, and I’m trying to avoid that. This isn’t a wheeling jeep, it will eventually belong to my son in a couple years as his first jeep.
Any recommendations for fenders that wouldn’t require cutting?
Any recommendations for fenders that wouldn’t require cutting?
This thread is about highline fenders. My recommendation is to stay away from any fender that is a highline.
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ButtersJeep
New Member
I can's speak for highlines since I run the std. ones from Genright. But I can say that the Alum. Genright ones that I have are top quality, I have had them on for several years and not one single issue.
PS go Alum not matter what the steel ones are HEAVEY
PS go Alum not matter what the steel ones are HEAVEY
X2. My steel highlines are 32 lbs each. Stock fenders weigh 18 lbs. I want to say genrights hover around 9-10 lbs
Crawltechs are very close to factory despite the outers being steel. There isn't much to them. They are likely a bit less than factory after you deduct the weight of the factory fender mounts.
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