Help with the SwayLOC
- Thread starter Plumber1
- Start date
Bought the housing. Haven't decided how I want to do signals. I can add them to the display itself or I can drill the housing and mount some like below
i think having some of the indicators as actual bulbs in the blank space would look pretty slick.
It's easier too since I'd have to add more inputs for the can system.
I have to do the programming to have them show on the screen and I'd need to feed in the signal so that it all works.
Aesthetics. It's entirely my personal taste, but I'd rather spread out the information that comes from a simple electrical circuit and save the display for stuff that comes from a data bus.
Also, cramming everything on the cluster into a 5" screen makes it a lot harder to interpret at a glance.
Same concept as adjusting the factory radio v. trying to find and adjust the radio function in a modern touchscreen head unit.
One benefit is that you can make different screens for what you want to see. Out on the trail you don't need to see turn signals.
On the road, I don't need to see diff lock status or GPS info.
Here's some examples I pulled from the software.
I have mine roughly in line with the frame rails. Keep tire clearance at steering lock in mind.
EDIT: Added pic
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Same as always, you want them slightly above parallel provided they don't invert the links at full droop. And, if you run them slighly above parallel and they run into the grill and fender bits at full stuff, you'll have to lower them some.
Thank you sir. Recommendation on which hole? Some say 2nd to the rear but there are others that say just run them on the very front. Mine has been OEM up until now.
We use the rear hole but we almost always have it combined with well tuned shocks and a rear Anti-rock. Try it and see, if you don't like it, change it.
Thank you all for the thread and advice. The SwayLoc went on easy. Paved roads are smoother and so are the dirt roads. Only tip I can leave for anyone looking for an easy (er) way to drive the big bar through the bushings. I used a woodworking pole clamp I had in the corner. You can grab one at Home Depot for like $20. It only pushes the bar 3" or so and then reset, but a lot less struggle than trying to brute force it.
I started with second to rear, conventional that way I guess
there were a lot of recommendations for it and @mrblaine said he used the rear most with a very tuned setup. I don't have a very tuned setup so I opted for a little more stiffness (wow just so much innuendo), I have only done minor service roads so far, but I like it. This weekend should give me more information as we are hitting some moderately difficult trails.Similar threads
