Best practices for engine rebuild/clutch replacement

[Iron Squirrel]

Finally getting ready to tackle a more-or-less full rebuild on the engine (at minimum replacing a head gasket due to muddy oil and re-ringing as there is more gas in the oil than in the tank) and will be replacing my clutch while I've got the engine out. I'm trying to plan ahead the best way to go about what I need to do, and am looking for some suggestions or thoughts. I am mainly wondering if it is easier to unbolt the engine and leave the transmission in place vs. pulling both together (my assumption is yes, but I've only moved them around, never physically taken one out). For once I am lucky to have the 4cyl so I have plenty of room to play with, but will probably just pull out the radiator and front grill/support since it will only make things easier.

Will it be rather difficult to get everything lined back up with just the engine? I know it will be significantly lighter with just a drained engine vs. the engine and transmission, and that will be helpful as this will most likely be a one man job... Plus I'd rather avoid buying a transmission jack if I can. I want to also avoid draining the transmission - wasn't too many miles ago I put Red Line in it and that stuff was NOT cheap, but totally worth it.

 

[macleanflood]

Just Dex It has some great cheap 4.0 refresh videos.

I'd consider new pistons and rolling in new crank bearings and checking clearance with plastigauge.

Just did a neighbor's 4.0 head gasket...Felpro gasket set and I sprayed it with copper gasket maker (not in the FSM) to make up for any machine shop work.

-Mac

 

[Iron Squirrel]

Just Dex It has some great cheap 4.0 refresh videos.

I'd consider new pistons and rolling in new crank bearings and checking clearance with plastigauge.

Just did a neighbor's 4.0 head gasket...Felpro gasket set and I sprayed it with copper gasket maker (not in the FSM) to make up for any machine shop work.

-Mac

Thanks for the idea on the copper gasket stuff - used that once before on some exhaust gaskets, wow was it sticky! The kit I'm looking at has pistons and everything together - not looking for a race prepped engine, just something that will make it another 100k or so with minimal investment. At some point in the future I plan on moving the 350 in my other project into this one, and the 454 I have sitting in my garage into that, but I'm looking at years not months - and my wife is itching to take the Jeep on some trails this Summer as it's been sitting since last year when I discovered the forbidden milkshake. Before that you could physically see the blow-by if you took the cap off when the engine was running and I swear the oil smelled like straight 87 octane.

 

[macleanflood]

Might want to stick with your original rods...Dex was showing how a lot of the new rods were pure crap...he pulls, checks and reuses rods out of done and over 4.0s.

-Mac