Where is everyone that has installed an Auxbeam 6/8 gang switch setup installed the distribution block under the hood. I'm not keen on mounting it to the top of the airbox or the fuse box. Not many other options...
AUXBEAM Installation
- Thread starter JKLNHYD
- Start date
Not a lot of room on the right side, Don’t what what you have under the hood but the abs tray under the brake booster if you don’t have abs. I installed my compressor in front of the cruise control servo. I may have moved a solenoid to make room.
Older thread I know, but I am just now starting the install on mine. Mike you still liking the location of the fuse box? for some reason your grill support rods look thicker than mine. Maybe just an illusion? So how did you route the control wires and how did you mount the controller?
And then the very next thread I find.. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ng-switch-vs-diy-dual-switch-panel-mod.61236/ Thanks for that ;-)
Super happy with the kit and install. The controller/fuse panel is still mounted on the radiator support, though I made one subtle change to the orientation of the clamps I used, shown in the post you linked to. After driving for a bit, the weight of the fuse panel and given it was cantilevered out on the support was causing the panel to swing to about 30 degree tilt. It didn't impact performance at all, just annoyed my anal retentiveness. So I flipped the clamps 180 degrees so the panel was mounted closer to the support rod and less cantilevered. everything is the same other than the orientation of the clamps... You'll have to look close to see it. The control panel now stays right vertical.
Control wire loom runs along radiator support, zip tied nice and neat, to the firewall and to the drivers side and enters through the grommet in the drivers footwell. After doing that I discovered I could have routed it under the cowel and into the cabin in the middle of the dash, but no harm no foul. All wires to devices I control with the switch panel run along the support rod and then disperse to wherever they are needed.. some go left some right.
I did change from the early Auxbeam model that had manual dimming to the auto-dim model. I regret that. The panel backlight dims so much when the cabin goes dark that seeing the buttons is really difficult. I still have the old one, but the switch panel and controller aren't interchangeable so I am kind of stuck because...
..the last change was the location of the switch panel. I removed it from the lower console and had a custom switch panel 3D printed. The Auxbeam panel is inset into the switch panel with a few other items. Since older Auxbeam and new auto-dim panel have a slightly different shape I am stuck with the new one.
Other than the dimming issue I am 100% happy with the kit and the install.
Control wire loom runs along radiator support, zip tied nice and neat, to the firewall and to the drivers side and enters through the grommet in the drivers footwell. After doing that I discovered I could have routed it under the cowel and into the cabin in the middle of the dash, but no harm no foul. All wires to devices I control with the switch panel run along the support rod and then disperse to wherever they are needed.. some go left some right.
I did change from the early Auxbeam model that had manual dimming to the auto-dim model. I regret that. The panel backlight dims so much when the cabin goes dark that seeing the buttons is really difficult. I still have the old one, but the switch panel and controller aren't interchangeable so I am kind of stuck because...
..the last change was the location of the switch panel. I removed it from the lower console and had a custom switch panel 3D printed. The Auxbeam panel is inset into the switch panel with a few other items. Since older Auxbeam and new auto-dim panel have a slightly different shape I am stuck with the new one.
Other than the dimming issue I am 100% happy with the kit and the install.
I'll dig up the name of the vendor. It was a long process that took a while. I chose the items I wanted and they designed a custom face for all the pieces.
I have a duel USB-A/USB-C charge port with voltage display, RJ45 to plug in the GMRS handset, a standard 12v Cig and the on/off switch which was more of a place-holder for flexibility should I want to change anything in the future.
It is almost exactly what I want. I also need a spot for the stock locker switch.
LOL of course the second time, I ask a question, do a little searching and immediately find this thread. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-way-to-get-wires-through-the-firewall.44348/
A few spots that I know of. I use two of them so far...
The rubber grommet below and right of the master cylinder. I've get a hand full of stuff coming through there and it's pretty accommodating.
The spot you found in the thread you linked to. Haven't used it yet.
I hear there is one under the cowel. Haven't used it yet.
There is another pass through behind the fuse block in the dash. It's not one you readily see from in the cabin, but you can see it from the engine bay. Where the heater and AC hoses pass through right of the battery, there is a foam insulation block. I had one wire coming through there installed by the PO and I have passed a few more gently through. The trick is that if you snake a wire through it typically coils up behind the fuse block out of reach. I have a piece of wire tether about three feet long that passes through and it is terminated permanently on both ends with zip ties to the tub so it can't be pulled through, yet is long enough to pull back and forth through the hole. It stays coiled behind the glove box. I tape the new wire that needs to go through and gently pull the tether through pulling the taped on wire with it. Remove the tape and the new wire is now in place. I have no idea how the PO successfully navigate through the first time. That said, the PO was a master Jeep mechanic so.. knowledge is potential power.
It is pretty amazing what you can do with 3d printers. Super clean install and setup.
Bottom left above the volt meter is that a clock? My Question is does it have 2 power wire one to keep the memory and one to turn it on like an aftermarket radio? Can it only do 24 hour time? Thanks
Yes.. a clock.
12 or 24 hour available from the merchant as well as your choice of color.
Both it and the voltage gauge stay on all the time.
Right on. I was wondering about the foam block. That is a perfect spot to pass the control wires. As far as the wire goes, network guys call that a "pull wire" we leave it in the conduits if we have to add a few lines later. Same concept.
Which merchant?
Do you have a link?
I was able to find this on Amazon but reviews only state 24hr:
Display-Clock-MoreChioce-Digital-Motorcycle
Everything I find for these type of 12v gadgets always seem to be in just 24hr.
Learn something new every day... didn't know that it actually had a name
I'll check my old Amazon orders. Bought that in 2020 or 2021.. stay tuned
Yes, that's it...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X4BL7MP/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Maybe I was wrong about the time format. To be candid, I wanted the military time so might not have been too attentive to it.
I can't find that grill support mounting bracket anywhere, do you have any specifics? Thanks!
I can't find that grill support mounting bracket anywhere, do you have any specifics? Thanks!
Do you have any specifics on this grill support bracket. Having trouble locating it. Thanks!
So.. since you asked the same question three times... I am guessing it is important.
The Auxbeam kit includes two mounting brackets. I assume you mean the one that I used to mount on the radiator support. It is in the Auxbeam kit. Under the foam in the box.
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