All things welding

[Jamesval035]

First time posting in the welding thread. I have a Hobart 190 that I’ve been trying to get dialed in, it just never sounded right. So….decided to “read” the directions, turns out I had the polarity set up to flux core rather than gas. Fml .
Anyway, got everything set up correctly. I’m messing with the settings practicing with 1/8” coupons. Ran a couple of beads and wanted to get some feedback on both setting adjustments and technique. 1st pic is a straight bead, 2nd and 3rd bead is an e pattern along and the last is a > pattern. I’ve been playing with the wire settings based wire speed and amperage. The panel on the machine states 50/5 for .035. These beads are between 40/5 and 50/5. Gas was set to 20 and bumped it up to 25 on the last two beads.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

@Jamesval035

Overall, not bad. My suggestion is to keep the settings the same until your technique is more consistent. Also increasing the gas flow will make the puddle wider & harder to manage. Too high & it creates turbulence which is bad.

This weld is really cold at the start then gets really hot. Hard to say because it could be a couple of reasons why.

This pattern is a tell tale sign of inconsistent travel speed. Most likely because the puddle is getting harder to control.

On this one you're more consistent but the excessive spatter indicates a bad gun angle.

This is your best one so stick with those settings & focus on consistency. It might help you keep track by writing whatever you changed (travel speed, pattern, machine settings, etc ) on the coupon with chalk then compare to see what works best for you.

 

[Jamesval035]

@Jamesval035

Overall, not bad. My suggestion is to keep the settings the same until your technique is more consistent. Also increasing the gas flow will make the puddle wider & harder to manage. Too high & it creates turbulence which is bad.
View attachment 570823
This weld is really cold at the start then gets really hot. Hard to say because it could be a couple of reasons why.

View attachment 570827
This pattern is a tell tale sign of inconsistent travel speed. Most likely because the puddle is getting harder to control.
View attachment 570828
On this one you're more consistent but the excessive spatter indicates a bad gun angle.

View attachment 570831This is your best one so stick with those settings & focus on consistency. It might help you keep track by writing whatever you changed (travel speed, pattern, machine settings, etc ) on the coupon with chalk then compare to see what works best for you.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. Btw, what are those darkspots on the weld? I noticed it on one of the others as well.
For the one you talked about gun angle, when mig welding, does the gun stay angled the same and the hand is moving in a direction, or is it almost like a walk the cup type motion as seen with TIG?
Hard to explain what I mean…

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. Btw, what are those darkspots on the weld? I noticed it on one of the others as well.
For the one you talked about gun angle, when mig welding, does the gun stay angled the same and the hand is moving in a direction, or is it almost like a walk the cup type motion as seen with TIG?
Hard to explain what I mean…

Those dark spots are silica that is added to the filler metal as a deoxidizer. It's less dense than the metal so it floats to the top of the puddle.

For GTAW, the gun angle mostly stays the same & you move your hand. Maybe a slight change in angle but very little & definitely not like walking the cup.

 

[Jezza]

I just bought a new ESAB invertor machine and I've been doing some practice. I'm not much of a mig guy but I think it looks pretty good.

 

[tworley]

I'm late to this issue but when I welded exhaust tubing I dipped about an inch from the end in muriatic acid until I could see it was down to steel. It left a pretty stark line with no room for doubt.

The puddle looked horrible, but it sealed the two pieces together. Been running it now for a couple thousand miles and seems to be OK.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Time to talk TIG ( Tungsten Inert Gas). Officially it's called GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) some of you old timers might know it as Heliarc.

Why GTAW? SMAW is useful out in the elements, simple & very portable. GMAW welding is easy & fast for high volume welding. GTAW is for high precision & exotic materials. The big difference is the amount of control you have. With MIG & Stick you rely on the machine settings, some slight manipulation of the wire/rod & that's about it. With GTAW you decided exactly where the arc goes, when & how much filler to add & a range of amperage if you use a foot pedal. There's a bunch of other settings but we can get into that later.

The cool thing about GTAW is that every stick welding machine is also a GTAW machine. All you need is the right torch & a bottle of argon.

GTAW can be intimidating because of the different torch types & configurations, a shit load more settings, which tungsten to use & how to prep it, etc. It also forces you to develop your technique which can be very frustrating but also extremely rewarding. Developing good hand-eye coordination & timing are very important here.

I'll try to post more about this tomorrow. I'd like to get into all the different setups & some basics for anyone interested in learning GTAW.

 

[Jamesval035]

I’ve been able to play with TIG at my weekend fundamental class the last few weeks. Definitely different and more variables of control. My instructor is a stainless steel Tig welder by trade, but his techniques and those I’ve seen on YouTube are definitely different. He has a lay the filler down and hover over it in a back and forth motion. These were a couple of my samples a couple of weeks ago. 1/4” steel, push button on the torch, miller welder. I did try the foot pedal last week and it was a little easier to manipulate the torch.

 

[BlueC]

@Jamesval035 Have you tried AC (aluminum) TIG work yet? I didn't get to work with stainless much, but when I did a welding course, I found AC TIG to be easier than DC.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

For some reason GTAW welding wasn't complicated enough so the industry made dozens of combinations of torch setups. Which torch style you use depends on your machine. There's 3 main types of GTAW welding: scratch start, lift arc & high frequency start. These are dictated by your machine. Instead of going through all the different machines it's probably easier if you tell me what machine you have & I'll help you get setup.

The next thing to consider is torch series. TLDR, get a #17 flex head.

#24 - 80 amps, air cooled, very small

#9 - 125 amps, air cooled, small
#20 - 250 amps, water cooled, small
(Both #9 & #20 use the same consumables)

#17 - 150 amps, air cooled, standard size
#18 - 350 amps, water cooled, standard size
#26 - 250 amps, air cooled, large size
(17/18/26 use the same consumables)

Side note, #9 & #17 have the same power cable connector so it's easy to change over to the smaller torch.

There's also rigid, flex & rotating heads which can help with getting a better angle for access & visibility.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Consumables can be another headache but there's 5 things that every torch needs. Well 6 if you include tungsten but more on that later. TLDR, get a series 3 stubby kit for 3/32" & #8, 10 & 12 cups to go with your #17 flex head torch.

Back cap - long, medium & short. Tightens the collet & seals out the back of the torch. Very rarely change these out unless you over tighten them & to they break or you need a shorter one.

Collet - holds the tungsten in place. Tungsten diameter specific. These can last a long time if they aren't overly tightened & develop a twist.

Collet body - standard diffuser type & gas lens. Also tungsten diameter specific. A gas lens is superior because it provides smooth flow of the argon. However any damage or spatter to the screen makes it useless. Diffusers last forever.

Gasket/Insulator - seals up the front of the torch. Almost never need to change these out unless you need a larger size for the big gas lenses.

Cup - either ceramic or glass. The number is the diameter of the opening measured in 16ths of an inch, i.e. #7 cup is 7/16" & this is also how much the tungsten can stick out past the rim of the cup. Bigger isn't always better, for example, a #8 only needs 10-12 CFM gas flow while a #14 moose knuckle needs 20-25 CFM. These are more durable than they look, but if you drop it or smack it on something then just check for cracks. They will get dirty but that's normal.

A couple of things to know about consumables:
• Series 2 are for a #9 or 20 torch & are very small
• Series 3 are for a #17, 18 or 26 torch & are noticably bigger.
• These pieces don't need to be overly torqued down. Everything should be hand tight which is more than enough.
• If you tighten everything up & your tungsten is still loose then it's time to change the collet.
• There are stubby kits for the #17 & 18 torches so it's not so cumbersome.

 

[Jamesval035]

@Jamesval035 Have you tried AC (aluminum) TIG work yet? I didn't get to work with stainless much, but when I did a welding course, I found AC TIG to be easier than DC.

Haven’t tried it yet. I’d have to see if they have aluminum. They gave the filler wire so going to test and get my hands on it this Saturday

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

For tungsten you've got a few choices but each has their own uses.
TLDR go with Red & Blue 3/32"

Thoriated - Red, Yellow or Orange. DC only & slightly radioactive

Lanthanated - Blue, Gold or Black. AC/DC

Rare Earth - Purple. Same as Red but without the radiation hazard

There's a bunch of other alloys like Zirconated, Ceriated, Tri-Blend & Pure tungsten but they are for more specific situations.

Prepping the tungsten is also important. I bought a tungsten grinder attachment for my Dremel for $40. You can also use a bench grinder but it will eat away the grinding wheel pretty fast. When you're first learning TIG you will have to regrind your tungsten A LOT.

How you grind it is also important. You want to have the striations (grinder marks) parallel to the tungsten. This will help focus & stabilize the arc.

The angle is also important. A narrow point like a pencil is good for thin material because it has less penetration. For everything else, I typically have the point at a 35° angle.

This is gonna annoy some people but with inverter machines you do not need ball the point for AC. When I weld aluminum I keep the the 35° angle & it works just fine. However, I do not expect this to work with transformer machines.

If you're unsure if you have a transformer or inverter machine I can help you figure that out.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Inverter GTAW machines have way more settings than GMAW or SMAW. If you're just getting started with GTAW I'd recommend not using any of these until you get your technique down. A lot of these settings are for aluminum, stainless or other exotic metals

Now that you've ignored that advice, here's a brief explanation on what all the settings do.

Amperage: 1 amp for every 0.001" for stainless it's about 10% less & for aluminum add an additional 25% (over 140 amps this rule doesn't really work)
2T or 4T: number of trigger movements to complete 1 cycle. Typically use 4T if you have a long weld to make
2T: hold trigger = On, let go = Off
4T: push trigger & let go = On, push trigger & let go = Off

Up Slope: allows the amps to climb at a set rate to slowly heat up the base metal
Down Slope: allows the amps to decrease instead of just stop. Can help prevent defects like fish eye or craters
Start Amps: allows for a cold start (lower amperage) or a hot start (higher amperage)
End Amps: determines final amperage before the arc stops

Pre-Flow: amount of time the gas will flow before the arc starts. Only need about ½ - 1 second, maybe 2 for aluminum
Post-Flow: amount of time the gas will flow after the arc is terminated. usually 1 second for every 10 amps

Pulse Frequency: pulses per second. Higher pulses will help focus the arc
Pulse Percentage: how much of a difference between high & low amperage
Pulse Time: how much the high amperage stays on

A/C Frequency: how fast it switches to electrode positive to negative measured in Hz. Lower frequency for thick aluminum & higher frequency for thinner aluminum. Higher frequency super focuses the arc for more precise weld placement like near threads or small repairs.
A/C Balance: amount of time spent on electrode positive (cleaning action) or negative (penetrating action). For dirty aluminum you need more positive. Each machine is different for this knob controlling either + or -.

 

[Woodrow]

Inverter TIG machines have way more settings than MIG or Stick. If you're just getting started with TIG I'd recommend not using any of these until you get your technique down. A lot of these settings are for aluminum, stainless or other exotic metals

Now that you've ignored that advice, here's a brief explanation on what all the settings do.

Amperage: 1 amp for every 0.001" for stainless it's about 10% less & for aluminum add an additional 25% (over 140 amps this rule doesn't really work)
2T or 4T: number of trigger movements to complete 1 cycle. Typically use 4T if you have a long weld to make
2T: hold trigger = On, let go = Off
4T: push trigger & let go = On, push trigger & let go = Off

Up Slope: allows the amps to climb at a set rate to slowly heat up the base metal
Down Slope: allows the amps to decrease instead of just stop. Can help prevent defects like fish eye or craters
Start Amps: allows for a cold start (lower amperage) or a hot start (higher amperage)
End Amps: determines final amperage before the arc stops

Pre-Flow: amount of time the gas will flow before the arc starts. Only need about ½ - 1 second, maybe 2 for aluminum
Post-Flow: amount of time the gas will flow after the arc is terminated. usually 1 second for every 10 amps

Pulse Frequency: pulses per second. Higher pulses will help focus the arc
Pulse Percentage: how much of a difference between high & low amperage
Pulse Time: how much the high amperage stays on

A/C Frequency: how fast it switches to electrode positive to negative measured in Hz. Lower frequency for thick aluminum & higher frequency for thinner aluminum. Higher frequency super focuses the arc for more precise weld placement like near threads or small repairs.
A/C Balance: amount of time spent on electrode positive (cleaning action) or negative (penetrating action). For dirty aluminum you need more positive. Each machine is different for this knob controlling either + or -.

I’d really like to learn TIG. I just need to force myself to make the time. But I also said that about playing the Banjo

 

[BlueC]

I’d really like to learn TIG. I just need to force myself to make the time.

I highly suggest finding a local community college welding course for that. I did that a few years ago and for around $250 I got somewhere around 20 hours experience on nice Miller machines with supplies provided and an instructor to guide me. I found that I really enjoy AC TIG, something I think is just too expensive to get into at home without some kind of income production behind it, but I know I can do it now.

 

[Woodrow]

I highly suggest finding a local community college welding course for that. I did that a few years ago and for around $250 I got somewhere around 20 hours experience on nice Miller machines with supplies provided and an instructor to guide me. I found that I really enjoy AC TIG, something I think is just too expensive to get into at home without some kind of income production behind it, but I know I can do it now.

Agree. I did that and at our community college, the class was not very well done. They had nice equipment but poor to no instruction. They just turned everyone loose. Not only was it not so helpful, it seemed dangerous. I’ve learned more on this forum and from @AirborneTexasRanger

 

[JMT]

@AirborneTexasRanger. I’ve got some winter welding projects I want to get done on the Jeep, but I can’t adjust my wire speed on my YesWelder, which I feel is necessary to get sufficient welds for these projects. If you’ve already mentioned this I apologize, but I was wondering if you have any suggestions for quality used mig welders I can search for on FB Marketplace. I’m hoping to spend $400-500.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

@AirborneTexasRanger. I’ve got some winter welding projects I want to get done on the Jeep, but I can’t adjust my wire speed on my YesWelder, which I feel is necessary to get sufficient welds for these projects. If you’ve already mentioned this I apologize, but I was wondering if you have any suggestions for quality used mig welders I can search for on FB Marketplace. I’m hoping to spend $400-500.

If you go for a used machine I'd try to find a Lincoln, Miller or Hobart. I couldn't recommend a specific machine to search for but name brand, not that old & within your budget. Shoot me a message when you find one you're considering & I'd be happy to check it out.

What YesWelder do you have? That's odd that the wire feed isn't adjustable.

 

[JMT]

What YesWelder do you have? That's odd that the wire feed isn't adjustable.

YesWelder MiG 205DS (110/220V). I’ve watched multiple videos on the settings and haven’t found out how to adjust the wire speed.

Maybe I just need to practice more at moving faster, but it’s like the wire is coming out way to fast and so it builds up so the surface of the weld is always convex. But I don’t feel like I’m going slow compared to videos I’ve seen of others welding.