5.0 stroker kit

[Rolled Over Rubi]

So currently as of right now I am installing a crank with a 4.06 stroke. This is a 5.0l stroker kit from Clegg engine. I’ve had to grind the block on cylinders 1 and 6 as it was casted with extra material and would interfere with the rods. After a long day I finally got all 6 rods and pistons installed. I finish torques cylinder 3 rod bolts and as I go to rotate of course it hits the block. My only issue is that when lookin at what it hits. It’s making contact with where a bolt would normally thread into the block. Am i going to run into any issues grinding this? And if I do, would I be able to run a shorter bolt and apply liquid teflon? I’m at stumped as of right now and not sure how else to move on from here.

 

[Moglocker]

So currently as of right now I am installing a crank with a 4.06 stroke. This is a 5.0l stroker kit from Clegg engine. I’ve had to grind the block on cylinders 1 and 6 as it was casted with extra material and would interfere with the rods. After a long day I finally got all 6 rods and pistons installed. I finish torques cylinder 3 rod bolts and as I go to rotate of course it hits the block. My only issue is that when lookin at what it hits. It’s making contact with where a bolt would normally thread into the block. Am i going to run into any issues grinding this? And if I do, would I be able to run a shorter bolt and apply liquid teflon? I’m at stumped as of right now and not sure how else to move on from here.

View attachment 606396

View attachment 606397

View attachment 606398

View attachment 606399

Can you show these pics to clegg engine?

 

[Rolled Over Rubi]

Can you show these pics to clegg engine?

I can yes, I don't believe I can get into contact with them on weekends though. They were the ones who actually told me i'd need to grind cylinders 1 and 6 as some blocks came with extra material and some did not.

 

[Rickyd]

Your only choice is to grind until you have the minimum rod clearance on all 6.I would put the motor mount and bolt on afterwards and see if the bolt needs shortened too.

Make sure the bottom of the cylinder walls clear.

Make sure you space the main girdle out as well. It's possible your oil pan will need cutting and welding rather than the hammer adjustment the 258 crank needs with a girdle.

 

[Rolled Over Rubi]

Your only choice is to grind until you have the minimum rod clearance on all 6.I would put the motor mount and bolt on afterwards and see if the bolt needs shortened too.

Make sure the bottom of the cylinder walls clear.

Make sure you space the main girdle out as well. It's possible your oil pan will need cutting and welding rather than the hammer adjustment the 258 crank needs with a girdle.

So far everything looks pretty good on cylinders 1, 2, 5, and 6. It’s just that 3 and 4 got me. I need 0.060 minimum due to heat expansion. I won’t be running the main girdle since I’ve installed ARP main studs and have heard no problems running without one. Really don’t wanna pull anything just to cut clearance. I’ve heard of people using shop vacs and magnets to help catch all the metal shavings but it’s risky.

 

[Rolled Over Rubi]

so im getting closer and closer to having my stroker finished up, but as i've got closer and closer to installing my cam position sensor, how does one end up synchronizing sensor correctly to the timing of the engine? I've taken a look at service info for the vehicle however it informs me that I need to ensure my crank damper is at 0 degrees on the timing cover marks. the only issue with that is my oem timing cover never had timing marks, so that leads me to wondering how i get everything aligned and timed correctly once i've primed my oiling system.