2004 Rubicon Air Intake / Exhaust - Valve Cover Gaskets

The grommets are not replacements for the tq limiters, you reuse the old ones with the new grommets.

Yea, I meant the new grommets from fel-pro aren't impressive. I considered leaving the OEM grommets, but ultimately decided to swap them.
 
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The grommets and gasket from felpro I got worked great. Not sure why you’re not happy with yours? So far felpro has been pretty good on all the replacements I’ve done. Oil pan and valve cover. The oil pan gives you some cheater plastic bolts to help lining up and getting the pan started. Pretty neat.
 
The grommets and gasket from felpro I got worked great. Not sure why you’re not happy with yours? So far felpro has been pretty good on all the replacements I’ve done. Oil pan and valve cover. The oil pan gives you some cheater plastic bolts to help lining up and getting the pan started. Pretty neat.

I'll post a comparison picture of the two later today.
 
Any advice for the manifold re-install? I think the exhaust manifold can be mounted with 3 bolts. Then, I can install the lower air intake manifold bolts and hopefully slide the air intake on to them.

There are some locating pins between intake #1 and 2 and 5 and 6 on the block for the intake manifold. Make sure you have them aligned with the hole in the intake or you can crack the manifold when tightening it up. It's kinda blind in there. There is a page in the FSM for the sequence to tighten them together.

The lower bolt between intake 2 and exhaust 2 is hard to reach. One option is to remove the driver side shock and go in through the hole in the tower with lots of extensions - maybe a flexible joint in the middle. I don't remember whether I found my 1/4 socket or 3/8 socket worked better, but my shorty headers made that slightly more tricky than the stock exhaust manifolds
 
@Chris You suggested taking the manifold to the carwash, but I noticed theres one plug on the manifold. What does this plug go to? Are there some electronics on the inside on the air intake manifold that are going to get fried if I soak the inside with water?
 
@Chris You suggested taking the manifold to the carwash, but I noticed theres one plug on the manifold. What does this plug go to? Are there some electronics on the inside on the air intake manifold that are going to get fried if I soak the inside with water?

Yeah, if you go the pressure washer route, remove that sensor (very easy to do with a wrench). Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure that's the IAT sensor.
 
There are some locating pins between intake #1 and 2 and 5 and 6 on the block for the intake manifold. Make sure you have them aligned with the hole in the intake or you can crack the manifold when tightening it up. It's kinda blind in there. There is a page in the FSM for the sequence to tighten them together.

The lower bolt between intake 2 and exhaust 2 is hard to reach. One option is to remove the driver side shock and go in through the hole in the tower with lots of extensions - maybe a flexible joint in the middle. I don't remember whether I found my 1/4 socket or 3/8 socket worked better, but my shorty headers made that slightly more tricky than the stock exhaust manifolds

It was such a pain in the ass to reach those bolts for removal. I am terrified to reinstall this thing.
 
It was such a pain in the ass to reach those bolts for removal. I am terrified to reinstall this thing.

That front lower one is tricky. I found that an extra-long ratcheting double box end wrench was the best tool to get the rest of the lower bolts up to proper torque. If I remember correctly it was a 9/16 wrench.
 
Factory orings were different colors, and I think different materials. I know the felpro replacements are all identical between top and bottom.
 
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I don't recall a bolt like that on my 04 manifolds, at least not for attaching them to the head. #6 and #7 are studs. The rest used the cone washers.
 
I don't recall a bolt like that on my 04 manifolds, at least not for attaching them to the head. #6 and #7 are studs. The rest used the cone washers.

I suspect positions 1,2, and 3 came from the factory with some rubber bushing inside. It was obviously inadequate as you can see in the picture they're completely disintegrated. I opted to re-use the 2 bolts with cone washers over using the the new bolts with grade 8 washer as the cone washers on those 2 weren't removable.
 
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I am annoyed that the dorman exhaust mounting hardware doesn't come with replacement cone washers, I re-used all the cone washers.

Seconded. I was not pleased to discover that. Substitutes are available