2003 TJ Rubicon Build - Need Suggestions

I appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. I ended up going with 5.13 gears and a 4" Core 4x4 and Rock Jock lift. Other than a few other mods (ARB sliders, Swayloc, better sound system) and a few minor repairs (a/c blower & resistor and one of the locker air pumps), I pretty much left it as I bought it. Just need to fix my exhaust manifold leak and I'm calling it done - well, at least for now.

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I appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. I ended up going with 5.13 gears and a 4" Core 4x4 and Rock Jock lift. Other than a few other mods (ARB sliders, Swayloc, better sound system) and a few minor repairs (a/c blower & resistor and one of the locker air pumps), I pretty much left it as I bought it. Just need to fix my exhaust manifold leak and I'm calling it done - well, at least for now.

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How do you like the 5.13 gears?
 
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As OffRoad Treks suggested take it out how it is built now and play with it. One thing to NOTE: You want to lock your rear lock the minute you get off-road since the limited slip portion of it is known to be weak and can break. So you want to lock your rear locker at all times when off-road. If you do a search on here you'll find it discussed.
To add to what Trek said, don't build past your skill level. Learn to wheel it as is then when you find yourself pushing past what your rig is capable of then modify more.
And like Tworley said determine what tire size you're going with and then pick your gear ratio.

As to if running 35" tires on a SWB rig is not safe? There are many here who have done so without any issues. I was at one point running 38" tires on a 95" WB TJ. They were short 38" tires though.

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I'm now sitting @ 100" WB and 38x13.5x17 tires.

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100" WB on 38's! Woot woot, this is where I'll be after this 2nd axle swap :-) LCG 2-1/2" OME coils, 1.25" body and motor lift with the tummy tuck.
I'm really digging the stance!
 
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100" WB on 38's! Woot woot, this is where I'll be after this 2nd axle swap :-) LCG 2-1/2" OME coils, 1.25" body and motor lift with the tummy tuck.
I'm really digging the stance!

I like the way it looks and so far have been happy with how it handles & performs. It was a long time coming.
 
Upon closer inspection of the Jeep, it turns out the previous owner had a 1" transfer case drop installed when the 2” or 2.5” lift was installed. With the vehicle being a Rubicon, it is my understanding the TC drop was not necessary. Not sure why they had it installed.

It usually isn't but every once in a while the rear DS just isn't happy with any lift. I was fine at 2.5", but when I put on a Barnes "bolt on" skid that moved it up another 1/2" I had some atypical noise coming from the rear DS. The rear shaft angle was a bit too steep. I was ready to just focus on using the Jeep over the rest of the summer and decided to leave it that way with some T-Case spacers. I have my TW DC shaft coming now and will swap it soon.

But one other issue with the factory skid is that water gets trapped in the pockets in the skid and can cause rust. When I helped my dad get his LJR sorted out this fall I did a fresh skid plate for him and used some thick washers between the skid and frame to make sure water wouldn't sit in there going forward. We live in CO and don't typically see the rust belt problems.

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The sprinklers between my house and my neighbor's were getting under the body on mine, so I had some work to clean it up this summer and make sure it didn't happen again.
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I appreciate everyone's input and suggestions. I ended up going with 5.13 gears and a 4" Core 4x4 and Rock Jock lift. Other than a few other mods (ARB sliders, Swayloc, better sound system) and a few minor repairs (a/c blower & resistor and one of the locker air pumps), I pretty much left it as I bought it. Just need to fix my exhaust manifold leak and I'm calling it done - well, at least for now.

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It looks great.