05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
Took her for a drive. No vibes up to ~70mph. Less vibes at idle. Smoother shifting with my console moved back to stock position. Really nothing to complain about other than the rear trackbar situation.
18 pinion/20 driveshaft
18 pinion/20 driveshaft
Good thing you went with the SS SYE, or that DS angle would be even worse. I would consider no vibes a win.
It’s crashing into the front of the gas tank skid and before I get to full bump for the other components it hits the crossmember.I went back and tried to re-read but still didn't see anything. I might be blind, and this is a dumb question: What is wrong with the rear track bar?
Congrats on everthing else though! And welcome to the TT club
What a day though. This is a lot of work. No joke! Glad to be in the club!
The Savvy MUA all began back in the early days. When I first got on the forum, guys said, 2.5” OME and 31’s. After that it was get a TT. Over time I wheeled the Jeep on just that, minus the TT, But where I was in TX, it wouldn’t cut it, so I planned a 1.25” BL and 33’s. Before I got there the 2.5” OME had vibes, so I got a 1” MML. That solved the vibes, but with the 6- speed it messed up my transmission relative to the lower boot and console, so I moved the console back an inch, which is no small feat with a 2005. I resolved at that time that a TT would restore the original angles and fix my console area. When the time came I got the BL and spent my money on regearing and lockers. Then I was set. I wheeled it for awhile, and did some pretty great trails in TX, UT, and WA.
I started accumulating parts for the TT, a rear trackbar here, a Savvy MUA there, you know the drill, but this time I was patient. It requires a number of parts and thinking through. I’m not sure there is a lot of specificity with the order you install the parts at the stage I was at, because once you tear it down you have to build it all back before you are going too far.
I chose to install the rear upper and lower CA’s first. They were there, it was easy enough to do. I adjusted the pinion to aim at where I thought the output shaft of the JB SS SYE would be. It was at 17*.
I had painted all the steel Savvy MUA parts in advance. I used a Rustoleum Enamel for Raw or slightly Rusted Steel with a brush. I poured it into the crossmember and sloshed it around with all the holes taped up except the entry. As you might imagine, it was a mess. I was not pleased. I eventually loaded up a cheap Wagner paint gun, diluted it 10-20% with acetone and finished that way. It ruined the paint gun, but who cares, I am tired of painting anyway.
I topcoated it with a black satin enamel spray. It turned out just okay, but very thick due to the undercoat, most of which I brushed on.
Installing was another issue. I loosened all the body mount bolts and removed all the passenger side, including the grill mount. Then I was able to lift at the rock slider and slip the outer C over the middle body mount. Lowered those and loosely attached the bolts. Then did the other side the same way. After that I started trying to get the outer C’s on the frame rail. Geez, they don’t fit, not even close. I worked and worked with rubber hammers, C Clamps, and small punches to line up the holes and get the inner C’s to play their part. I couldn’t get it. With some good advice I made a long drift and a pair of extra hands to get the outers, inners, and crossmember holes to all line up. Got a few bolts started and was able to get both sides done.
Went to the transmission mount. Lifted everything up, got the holes lined up, stole the bushing out of the stock exhaust bracket and inserted it on the Savvy, no problem. I loosely put all this on. Took a look at everything, then tightened up the transmission mount and lifted the exhaust hanger to sufficiently clear the crossmember and bolted it up. Things are looking pretty good at this point.
I still needed to do the SYE. I had a $30 pair of snap ring pliers from Ace, a 12 point 10mm for the TCase upper bolt and a few other tools I added to the armory. This was the part I was the most nervous about. I removed the front driveshaft, marking it just to be safe. The four bolts are hard to get To after you’ve already tucked everything. I removed the output and got to the case. I wasn’t supposed to, but I removed the plate that has the attachment to the oil sucker. it is not intuitive, since it is loose and you think you need to remove it. You dont. But if you do, just be careful. Mine was fine. Broke into the case and all looked well. I had a time getting the snap and lock rings off. I’m still divided on which are more difficult. I don’t like removing either. It’s just part of the drill though, so you do it. All along, @starkey480 is doing this in a different order than me, but we are working together, talking things out. On this part, I followed him. He was installing the EC UCF. He was a great help. Thanks!
Once inside it was simple, pull out the front and rear shafts together and put them on the bench. We both did this in the Jeep to save time. Another lock ring and moving the gears over to the JB SS and installing a lock ring and I was in business. Put it all back together. The RTV gasket maker I bought was specifically for cases. It was a little runny. I was worried about it, but I assumed it must be okay. Got the oil sucker plugged back in, the output on with some more RTV, all looks good. The yoke bolt has to be cranked down to 200ft/lb. I went to O-Reilly’s and rented it for $108 and after 10 minutes I was done. Got a fatter O-ring for the speedo Since I was forewarned the standard one weeps. Everything went together well, but who knows till the end.
I had planned on a Tom Wood driveshaft, But a fellow Texan offered me an Adams if my DS was 19” What do you know, but I was measuring 19-19.25”, so I took him up on it. An unbeatable deal. Thanks @Kris M! I hope I get to wheel with this guy who has an amazing Jeep. Check out his build! I got the driveshaft on Thursday and after grabbing some new straps for the pinion end at AutoZone I quickly assembled. My pinion was adjusted by this point to 18 and driveshaft was 20. During all this I had spent some time with the trackbar and had a number of problems. It is the JKS bar. I would stay away from it. I would just go for the Currie and call it done. It is far too close to the gas tank skid on a 2005. It rams into it frankly, at 18* pinion. The lowers are as short as they can be. It is really frustrating. @Wildman sent me a different threaded end for the trackbar and it arrived today, so hopefully that will help it clear. I went wheelin today, planned to take it easy. After 10 minutes my rig overheated. The fan was hitting the shroud. I forgot to check that. With a little ingenuity, I easily managed to clear it on the trail so I could finish the day wheelin.
A strange anomaly is I gained at least 0.75” rear suspension lift. I’m not too happy about this, it puts me at almost 3.5”. My front is at 3”, so I have a rake. I’ll work it out though.
Here’s how she sits now. 16.25” at the center on flat ground. 18” at the frame. My 33 MT‘s are 25,000 miles in, so I’ll need some new before Moab 2020.
I started accumulating parts for the TT, a rear trackbar here, a Savvy MUA there, you know the drill, but this time I was patient. It requires a number of parts and thinking through. I’m not sure there is a lot of specificity with the order you install the parts at the stage I was at, because once you tear it down you have to build it all back before you are going too far.
I chose to install the rear upper and lower CA’s first. They were there, it was easy enough to do. I adjusted the pinion to aim at where I thought the output shaft of the JB SS SYE would be. It was at 17*.
I had painted all the steel Savvy MUA parts in advance. I used a Rustoleum Enamel for Raw or slightly Rusted Steel with a brush. I poured it into the crossmember and sloshed it around with all the holes taped up except the entry. As you might imagine, it was a mess. I was not pleased. I eventually loaded up a cheap Wagner paint gun, diluted it 10-20% with acetone and finished that way. It ruined the paint gun, but who cares, I am tired of painting anyway.
I topcoated it with a black satin enamel spray. It turned out just okay, but very thick due to the undercoat, most of which I brushed on.Installing was another issue. I loosened all the body mount bolts and removed all the passenger side, including the grill mount. Then I was able to lift at the rock slider and slip the outer C over the middle body mount. Lowered those and loosely attached the bolts. Then did the other side the same way. After that I started trying to get the outer C’s on the frame rail. Geez, they don’t fit, not even close. I worked and worked with rubber hammers, C Clamps, and small punches to line up the holes and get the inner C’s to play their part. I couldn’t get it. With some good advice I made a long drift and a pair of extra hands to get the outers, inners, and crossmember holes to all line up. Got a few bolts started and was able to get both sides done.
Went to the transmission mount. Lifted everything up, got the holes lined up, stole the bushing out of the stock exhaust bracket and inserted it on the Savvy, no problem. I loosely put all this on. Took a look at everything, then tightened up the transmission mount and lifted the exhaust hanger to sufficiently clear the crossmember and bolted it up. Things are looking pretty good at this point.
I still needed to do the SYE. I had a $30 pair of snap ring pliers from Ace, a 12 point 10mm for the TCase upper bolt and a few other tools I added to the armory. This was the part I was the most nervous about. I removed the front driveshaft, marking it just to be safe. The four bolts are hard to get To after you’ve already tucked everything. I removed the output and got to the case. I wasn’t supposed to, but I removed the plate that has the attachment to the oil sucker. it is not intuitive, since it is loose and you think you need to remove it. You dont. But if you do, just be careful. Mine was fine. Broke into the case and all looked well. I had a time getting the snap and lock rings off. I’m still divided on which are more difficult. I don’t like removing either. It’s just part of the drill though, so you do it. All along, @starkey480 is doing this in a different order than me, but we are working together, talking things out. On this part, I followed him. He was installing the EC UCF. He was a great help. Thanks!
Once inside it was simple, pull out the front and rear shafts together and put them on the bench. We both did this in the Jeep to save time. Another lock ring and moving the gears over to the JB SS and installing a lock ring and I was in business. Put it all back together. The RTV gasket maker I bought was specifically for cases. It was a little runny. I was worried about it, but I assumed it must be okay. Got the oil sucker plugged back in, the output on with some more RTV, all looks good. The yoke bolt has to be cranked down to 200ft/lb. I went to O-Reilly’s and rented it for $108 and after 10 minutes I was done. Got a fatter O-ring for the speedo Since I was forewarned the standard one weeps. Everything went together well, but who knows till the end.
I had planned on a Tom Wood driveshaft, But a fellow Texan offered me an Adams if my DS was 19” What do you know, but I was measuring 19-19.25”, so I took him up on it. An unbeatable deal. Thanks @Kris M! I hope I get to wheel with this guy who has an amazing Jeep. Check out his build! I got the driveshaft on Thursday and after grabbing some new straps for the pinion end at AutoZone I quickly assembled. My pinion was adjusted by this point to 18 and driveshaft was 20. During all this I had spent some time with the trackbar and had a number of problems. It is the JKS bar. I would stay away from it. I would just go for the Currie and call it done. It is far too close to the gas tank skid on a 2005. It rams into it frankly, at 18* pinion. The lowers are as short as they can be. It is really frustrating. @Wildman sent me a different threaded end for the trackbar and it arrived today, so hopefully that will help it clear. I went wheelin today, planned to take it easy. After 10 minutes my rig overheated. The fan was hitting the shroud. I forgot to check that. With a little ingenuity, I easily managed to clear it on the trail so I could finish the day wheelin.
A strange anomaly is I gained at least 0.75” rear suspension lift. I’m not too happy about this, it puts me at almost 3.5”. My front is at 3”, so I have a rake. I’ll work it out though.
Here’s how she sits now. 16.25” at the center on flat ground. 18” at the frame. My 33 MT‘s are 25,000 miles in, so I’ll need some new before Moab 2020.
Lookin good buddy hope that different end helps out. When you are ready let me know and we'll set a side a weekend for you to come over and we'll move your spring pads and any other odds and ends you want.
Looks great!! Glad to hear you were able to do a trail fix and keep wheeling. I wonder if relocating the spring pad will bring you back to level.The Savvy MUA all began back in the early days. When I first got on the forum, guys said, 2.5” OME and 31’s. After that it was get a TT. Over time I wheeled the Jeep on just that, minus the TT, But where I was in TX, it wouldn’t cut it, so I planned a 1.25” BL and 33’s. Before I got there the 2.5” OME had vibes, so I got a 1” MML. That solved the vibes, but with the 6- speed it messed up my transmission relative to the lower boot and console, so I moved the console back an inch, which is no small feat with a 2005. I resolved at that time that a TT would restore the original angles and fix my console area. When the time came I got the BL and spent my money on regearing and lockers. Then I was set. I wheeled it for awhile, and did some pretty great trails in TX, UT, and WA.
I started accumulating parts for the TT, a rear trackbar here, a Savvy MUA there, you know the drill, but this time I was patient. It requires a number of parts and thinking through. I’m not sure there is a lot of specificity with the order you install the parts at the stage I was at, because once you tear it down you have to build it all back before you are going too far.
I chose to install the rear upper and lower CA’s first. They were there, it was easy enough to do. I adjusted the pinion to aim at where I thought the output shaft of the JB SS SYE would be. It was at 17*.
I had painted all the steel Savvy MUA parts in advance. I used a Rustoleum Enamel for Raw or slightly Rusted Steel with a brush. I poured it into the crossmember and sloshed it around with all the holes taped up except the entry. As you might imagine, it was a mess. I was not pleased. I eventually loaded up a cheap Wagner paint gun, diluted it 10-20% with acetone and finished that way. It ruined the paint gun, but who cares, I am tired of painting anyway.
Installing was another issue. I loosened all the body mount bolts and removed all the passenger side, including the grill mount. Then I was able to lift at the rock slider and slip the outer C over the middle body mount. Lowered those and loosely attached the bolts. Then did the other side the same way. After that I started trying to get the outer C’s on the frame rail. Geez, they don’t fit, not even close. I worked and worked with rubber hammers, C Clamps, and small punches to line up the holes and get the inner C’s to play their part. I couldn’t get it. With some good advice I made a long drift and a pair of extra hands to get the outers, inners, and crossmember holes to all line up. Got a few bolts started and was able to get both sides done.
Went to the transmission mount. Lifted everything up, got the holes lined up, stole the bushing out of the stock exhaust bracket and inserted it on the Savvy, no problem. I loosely put all this on. Took a look at everything, then tightened up the transmission mount and lifted the exhaust hanger to sufficiently clear the crossmember and bolted it up. Things are looking pretty good at this point.
I still needed to do the SYE. I had a $30 pair of snap ring pliers from Ace, a 12 point 10mm for the TCase upper bolt and a few other tools I added to the armory. This was the part I was the most nervous about. I removed the front driveshaft, marking it just to be safe. The four bolts are hard to get To after you’ve already tucked everything. I removed the output and got to the case. I wasn’t supposed to, but I removed the plate that has the attachment to the oil sucker. it is not intuitive, since it is loose and you think you need to remove it. You dont. But if you do, just be careful. Mine was fine. Broke into the case and all looked well. I had a time getting the snap and lock rings off. I’m still divided on which are more difficult. I don’t like removing either. It’s just part of the drill though, so you do it. All along, @starkey480 is doing this in a different order than me, but we are working together, talking things out. On this part, I followed him. He was installing the EC UCF. He was a great help. Thanks!
Once inside it was simple, pull out the front and rear shafts together and put them on the bench. We both did this in the Jeep to save time. Another lock ring and moving the gears over to the JB SS and installing a lock ring and I was in business. Put it all back together. The RTV gasket maker I bought was specifically for cases. It was a little runny. I was worried about it, but I assumed it must be okay. Got the oil sucker plugged back in, the output on with some more RTV, all looks good. The yoke bolt has to be cranked down to 200ft/lb. I went to O-Reilly’s and rented it for $108 and after 10 minutes I was done. Got a fatter O-ring for the speedo Since I was forewarned the standard one weeps. Everything went together well, but who knows till the end.
I had planned on a Tom Wood driveshaft, But a fellow Texan offered me an Adams if my DS was 19” What do you know, but I was measuring 19-19.25”, so I took him up on it. An unbeatable deal. Thanks @Kris M! I hope I get to wheel with this guy who has an amazing Jeep. Check out his build! I got the driveshaft on Thursday and after grabbing some new straps for the pinion end at AutoZone I quickly assembled. My pinion was adjusted by this point to 18 and driveshaft was 20. During all this I had spent some time with the trackbar and had a number of problems. It is the JKS bar. I would stay away from it. I would just go for the Currie and call it done. It is far too close to the gas tank skid on a 2005. It rams into it frankly, at 18* pinion. The lowers are as short as they can be. It is really frustrating. @Wildman sent me a different threaded end for the trackbar and it arrived today, so hopefully that will help it clear. I went wheelin today, planned to take it easy. After 10 minutes my rig overheated. The fan was hitting the shroud. I forgot to check that. With a little ingenuity, I easily managed to clear it on the trail so I could finish the day wheelin.
A strange anomaly is I gained at least 0.75” rear suspension lift. I’m not too happy about this, it puts me at almost 3.5”. My front is at 3”, so I have a rake. I’ll work it out though.
Here’s how she sits now. 16.25” at the center on flat ground. 18” at the frame. My 33 MT‘s are 25,000 miles in, so I’ll need some new before Moab 2020.
View attachment 160036
View attachment 160035View attachment 160034
Keep up the good work.
I got the trackbar end today. I slipped under the Jeep to look at two side by side. Definitely bent more. I will get after it tomorrow or next week. I should probably do it before the exhaust relocation.
Great job!
A dream doesn’t become reality through magic; it takes sweat, determination and hard work. ~ Colin Powell
A dream doesn’t become reality through magic; it takes sweat, determination and hard work. ~ Colin Powell
IDK, I'm still thinking about the dynamics of what changed and why the springs are now giving more lift.
Axle location? The spring perch rotates with the pinion moving up as well.
That’s exactly what it is. And moving the upper to the highest part of the arch will lower it back down a little.
Yes. So, what I was trying to think through were levers. The coil is a lever, as you know, just a spiral lever, so it made me think differently about types of levers. If the front edge of the perch is higher due to rotating the pinion, then that side of the lever is holding more of the weight. But that side of the lever is not continuous, it is disrupted by portions of the coil in the rear that are not supporting as much weight, with a continuum of weight distribution in between. Just something interesting I am thinking about.
This is a good picture to explain the spring physics. All though not “all” of the springs force can be concentrated to one side, it is still significant enough to give lift. Think of the closest edge of the spring perches (the front). On a stock Jeep, the axle coil perch is tilted so that the closest distance between the two perches is around 8”. As the axle perch is rotated up, the front of the axle coil bucket gets closer and closer to the front of the frame coil perch. Even though it’s not directly in the center so not “all” of the springs force, having one edge of the spring get closer does put enough to lift the Jeep.
Glad I could help you out. Hopefully it'll work and fix the problem with the trackbar. I know it helped with mine.
that TT really makes your belly almost flat. Your Jeep is looking good
and ready for Moab.
