I don't know about Dave, but I was tired and that part wasn't in the way.
If I do it again, I would hopefully do a better job.
Outboard rear shocks project
- Thread starter softballnrd27
- Start date
If I do it again, I would hopefully do a better job.
They don't need to be but we leave them about 3/8" longer than flush so they are easier to weld. Flush would not be fun to weld and much longer you run the risk of the shock body hitting it under articulation.
For me, I measured and measured, cycled and cycled the suspension. I wanted close to equal up and down travel with the lengths of shocks that were available. This is what I ended up with. What I didn't account for was spring settling and off road gear loaded in the Jeep. There was a ton of stuff being done to the Jeep all at the same time, including brand new springs. There is definitely more down travel than up travel now. If I could do it all over again, I would of mounted them slightly higher.
They are kind of stuck where they are now!
Had the built Dana 44 axle I bought not have had the Poly Performance lower boxed shock mounts already on it, I'm not sure if I would of done it. But, the previous owner of the axle ( very wise and well respected in the Jeep community ) explained the benefits, and showed me how he mounted his upper mounts on his then yellow LJ. That sold me on going through with it. I am still very happy with how the Jeep performs and rides after all these years.
Would an adjustable upper rear mount (I think Dave from Jeep West fabricates them?) make the job easier? As I was thinking about the process and how many measurements are required prior to burning them in, I came to the conclusion that you pretty much get one shot. Is there any downside to having an adjustable mount?
*Edit found pictures
*Edit found pictures
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Don't have a pic of the lower mount but it sounds like you have the other end of this one I did?
@mrblaine doesn't come on this forum anymore. After he saw that MetalCloak was sponsoring the ride of the month contest, he said he would never come to this site again since I "sold out" apparently.
Perhaps @jjvw will chime in, as he has outboard shocks on his. I'm in the process of doing mine, but a builder is doing it for me, so I can't comment on the proper angle or anything.
This would be an interesting discussion to have though.
Perhaps you should log your hours doing admin duties for this website, then divide it by all the money you make from "selling out" and disclose the figure. If your typical it's likely around $3.00 and hour and if you work overtime maybe $3.25!
Sell out all you want my friend
Ever wonder why offroad magazines don't ever say anything bad about stuff they use on their builds in the articles?Perhaps you should log your hours doing admin duties for this website, then divide it by all the money you make from "selling out" and disclose the figure. If your typical it's likely around $3.00 and hour and if you work overtime maybe $3.25!
Sell out all you want my friend
Perhaps you should log your hours doing admin duties for this website, then divide it by all the money you make from "selling out" and disclose the figure. If your typical it's likely around $3.00 and hour and if you work overtime maybe $3.25!
Sell out all you want my friend
You are conflating two separate things.
The time and effort put into running the site is different than the potential concerns surrounding sponsorship.
If his initials are LN, former Washington resident, now Nevada resident, that's the one. And to think I have a couple official Blaine installed parts on my Jeep all this time and never knew!
derekmac
TJ Addict
Is a caliper relocation kit needed for a Dana 44 when outboarding the rear shocks, or can it be done with the calipers in the stock location?
Needed? No, you can generally spend enough time cycling it and get the mounts positioned so the caliper doesn't hit the shock body under full articulation, but it takes a lot longer. It also limits how much real estate you can use to get the shock where it needs to be rather than where the caliper forces it to be.
derekmac
TJ Addict
It's a pretty clever kit. I can see where it made the job much easier. Plus the parking brake works a bit better than before.OK, sounds like your kit is the way to go then. Thanks for the response!
I
I need to do this to my new LJ project. But nothing is going to happen until late spring at the earliest. I am going to take and pay off most of my debt by then hopefully that way I can focus on the jeep. I think that I will also pull the body off the frame and set up my tummy tuck/atlas/lift/axles....Tim
That's a whole bunch of work for very little reduction in effort and if there is any suspension work involved, you need the weight on the axles at some point to figure out ride height.
Yeah MrBlaine but my welding sucks now because I have not done much for years, so having the body off will make it easier to get things welded for most of it. It will also give some room to clearance anything that becomes an issue...or at least that is my thinking. Tim
Yes. If you look at the backing plate for the drum brakes, it has an indentation that recesses the plate inboard over the housing end. Essentially moving it inwards towards the shock body. The caliper backing plates are pretty flat and are not recessed at all.
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