Here's the scenario. Chasing down a 4 amp draw when key is off. Tons of fuse pulling and testing. Not much luck. While checking the ignition and mfsw connections I discovered the mfsw connector was semi melted and falling apart. Aha. That must be it. Get the dorman replacement and swap it out, one wire at a time, to ensure no mistakes. Plug everything back in, still have the draw. But now my blinkers and hazards are not working. Everything else works fine. What say the experts? I'm stumped.
Electrical issues
- Thread starter johndl58
- Start date
Could be a short across multiple circuits, so pulling one fuse doesn’t actually solve it? Start pulling fuses without replacing them until it goes away. That last fuse is definitely part of the problem. Leave it out, and start adding them back until it returns.
That works in my head. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
That works in my head. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
I'd guess that the melted connector was the symptom of a failed MFS.
You indicated that your replaced the connector, but did you use the same MFS, or did you also replace that to get where you are now?
My suspicion is that the MFS failed, causing the short to ground, which then overheated the connector.
By repairing the connector, you have 'relit the fuse' per se... in that the failure within the MFS will again cause increased current and heat at the connector that you just replaced.
I would replace the MFS.
I would also disconnect that connector that you repaired before you end up repairing it again.
You indicated that your replaced the connector, but did you use the same MFS, or did you also replace that to get where you are now?
My suspicion is that the MFS failed, causing the short to ground, which then overheated the connector.
By repairing the connector, you have 'relit the fuse' per se... in that the failure within the MFS will again cause increased current and heat at the connector that you just replaced.
I would replace the MFS.
I would also disconnect that connector that you repaired before you end up repairing it again.
WestCoastDan
TJ Addict
You can also use the VM to check for voltage across the fuse socket connections (with the fuse removed)... If there is zero current, there is also zero voltage... if there is voltage, review what is on that circuit - it could be the clock and presets on the radio, for example.
Ordered a new mfsw. We'll see if that fixes the blinker issues. Also noticed a black "cable" looking thing with an electrical component on it that goes up under the steering wheel. The electrical component was super hot. Wondering if this could be my phantom high amp draw?
Im at work until late tomorrow night. I'll get one up Monday morning. Doing some limited research I'm thinking it could be the neutral lockout? It had a yellow tab that poked out at base of steering wheel. The solenoid looking mechanism has a 2 wire connector going to it and it was way hotter than it should have been.
This is what was super hot. Pretty sure it's the shift lock. Anyway, still have the 4 amp draw with it disconnected. At this point I'm just going to hope the new mfsw fixes the non working blinkers and I'll just put a battery disconnect switch on it. I'm done chasing this nonsense.
4A is an enormous draw, I would not give up on chasing that one down.
I know. Its killing me. I hate not figuring shit out. And the car can't really be any simpler. It's got zero amenities. I'm a beaten man
I know. Its killing me. I hate not figuring shit out. And the car can't really be any simpler. It's got zero amenities. I'm a beaten man
did you try my suggestion in post #2?
I did. And I narrowed it down somewhat. So I got it to almost zero draw and then started putting fuses back in. But if I put eatx, ASD, IOD, radio, or ign fuses back in, the draw returns. And that's with the Mfsw disconnected as well as the shift lock.
if you have the draw without the multi function switch then it's probably not that.
Did you find any combination of those remaining fuses that didn't result in a large parasitic draw? I'm not ready for you to give up on this yet.
Did you find any combination of those remaining fuses that didn't result in a large parasitic draw? I'm not ready for you to give up on this yet.
if you have the draw without the multi function switch then it's probably not that.
Did you find any combination of those remaining fuses that didn't result in a large parasitic draw? I'm not ready for you to give up on this yet.
No. If I put any of them in the draw returns. The rear wiper fuse was blown behind glove box. I left that out. Another bit of info that may/may not matter is the air bags had been deployed in the past and were not replaced due to a passenger side hit in the door/rocker area.
interesting. All those circuits run along the inside firewall along the dash, I'm pretty sure. So that's fishy. Do you see any other odd behavior? Does your stereo lose it's presets when you turn off the jeep? If you had turn signals, would they work with the key off? Does the radio work with the key off? If something is drawing power it's either shorting to ground or its supplying power to a component that shouldn't have power. Do your wipers work with the key off?
I'll have to check the wiper stuff when I get the new mfsw. It's coming today. Hopefully early enough to at least get it installed. I did notice that the radio will turn on with the key off. I can also remove the key when it's on as well.
I had done that and still had the draw. I will try it again though. Waiting on a storm to roll out
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