An "Endless" Rubicon Build
- Thread starter Drastic
- Start date
Another solid day in the garage today. Got the rear axle done. Welded on new brake line tabs. Got the hard lines finished. New calipers, pads and cut the rotors. Drilled out the knuckles to 5/8 GM one ton TREs. Bled the brakes. Cut the rear Genright stretch corners to fit 40s. Still have a lot I need to finish. I have to mount my arb compressor, run the lines, mount the switches. I also have an anti rock rear sway bar I’d like to get installed. With the outboarded rear shocks, I have to cut the rear shock tabs off and reweld them on. I also have to get new universal joints on BOTH brand new Tom woods driveshafts 
Ordered some custom t7075 solid aluminum steering, I’ll still be running hydro assist. Also, Dynatrac sent me the wrong bolts for the diff cover 
but! She’s on her own weight!
Also, the fact these axles are high pinion, NONE of the control arms mounted in the same position. I ended up stretching the rear another inch and the front an inch. I’m sitting at 100.5” total.
My goal is to fine tune this setup. Next winter I’d like to be running ORIs, I want to stay hydro assist because it’ll be driven on the road. Maybe upgrading my master cylinder for the bigger brakes. I have a PSC pump and bigger box, so the steering should be okay on 40s.
Ordered some custom t7075 solid aluminum steering, I’ll still be running hydro assist. Also, Dynatrac sent me the wrong bolts for the diff cover but! She’s on her own weight!Also, the fact these axles are high pinion, NONE of the control arms mounted in the same position. I ended up stretching the rear another inch and the front an inch. I’m sitting at 100.5” total.
My goal is to fine tune this setup. Next winter I’d like to be running ORIs, I want to stay hydro assist because it’ll be driven on the road. Maybe upgrading my master cylinder for the bigger brakes. I have a PSC pump and bigger box, so the steering should be okay on 40s.
Got the brakes bled, rear shock brackets welded on and rear sway bar mounted. I ended up cutting the brackets and welding them to my frame. I couldn’t use the bolt on bracket because the rear stretch. Waiting on steering and hooking up the arb compressor.
Steering came in, 7075 solid aluminum tie rod and drag link. Chevy one ton tie rod ends. New u-joints to adapt from 1330 to 1350 came in. Ordered the rough country mlc-6 switch panel. A lot of people are negative on rough country stuff and I get it but the switch panel seems to be a good choice for those who don’t want to spend 800$ on a switch pod. It’ll just make wiring the compressor, front and rear lockers, rigid lights and maybe rock lights easier. Also got some small weld on tabs for my rear brake lines. Hopefully I’ll have everything together this weekend or next.
Another successful weekend. Got the ARB compressor hooked up, all the lines plumbed, Rough Country MLC-6 mounted and wired. Ran into some clearance issues with the steering, had to cut and grind to get everything good. Welded tabs on the rear axle for the hard lines. New Durango master cylinder installed. Stock master has a 1” bore, this has a 1 1/16, hopefully it’ll help with the bigger brakes and 40s. Took it for a quick drive down the road, everything seems okay. I’m going to end up adjusting the front track bar and drag link, I also have to order another locker solenoid, this axle came with the compressor and solenoids, one solenoid doesn’t work so pumped to get this thing buttoned up for spring time. Oh and I have to order a new power steering pump
so pumped to get this thing buttoned up for spring time. Oh and I have to order a new power steering pump
Thanks man! I definitely want to lower it an inch or 2. I’m running rock krawler 3.5in fronts and 2in rears. Idk how much lower I can go
maybe 2in front and stock rears
Just catching up on your thread. How did you move the axle back 5”? Did you move the arch? What were your impressions of the stretch? I noticed you mentioned a Motobilt gas tank but then a GR. Did you go with a GR tank?
FYI, IH8MUD had a build that was nearly stock suspension, super LCG, but he’s no longer on here and I think his account is deleted. It was interesting at the time. He was cutting the tub to get everything to fit.
FYI, IH8MUD had a build that was nearly stock suspension, super LCG, but he’s no longer on here and I think his account is deleted. It was interesting at the time. He was cutting the tub to get everything to fit.
I love LCG builds, I was 3in on 37s forever. This just feels so tall. I had a motobilt tank but another buddy went to a fuel cell and I bought his Genright alien tank for 300$ which is insane. It’s aluminum with an aluminum skid. So I sold another buddy my motobilt tank. Absolutely no issues running the motobilt one, it’s a little tougher to setup for 04-06 because the evap system. The Genright was basically plug and play. I had to get a 99 filler neck. I also deleted my evap canister and I have just the LDP.
Haven’t worked on the green jeep in a few weeks. Still need to install the master cylinder and shorter coil springs. Hopefully that will be done within the next few weeks.
Did make some progress on the generic jeep(nickname for my black rubicon, mainly because it came with a snorkel and hilift jack door mount)
Installed a bunch of leftover parts from my green jeep. Currie 3in springs, Currie currectlync steering, sway bar disconnects, extended brake lines, reinstalled the snorkel and hilift jack because why not. I have a Clayton track bar and JKS rear I’m going to install. I didn’t order a single part for any of that I bought a set of used xenox extended flares on eBay, mainly so I can pass the enhanced salvage title inspection. I also have a set of smittybilt rear corner armor and flares. I also put on a set of 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Legend MTZ which are 35s. My goal is to make this a fun capable daily driver, like I said earlier it only has 61k miles.
I’d still like to find a set of used control arms so I’m not running the stock ones. I’ll also probably run a set of front tube fenders, just gotta figure out which ones.
Did make some progress on the generic jeep(nickname for my black rubicon, mainly because it came with a snorkel and hilift jack door mount
) Installed a bunch of leftover parts from my green jeep. Currie 3in springs, Currie currectlync steering, sway bar disconnects, extended brake lines, reinstalled the snorkel and hilift jack because why not. I have a Clayton track bar and JKS rear I’m going to install. I didn’t order a single part for any of that
I bought a set of used xenox extended flares on eBay, mainly so I can pass the enhanced salvage title inspection. I also have a set of smittybilt rear corner armor and flares. I also put on a set of 315/75/16 Mickey Thompson Legend MTZ which are 35s. My goal is to make this a fun capable daily driver, like I said earlier it only has 61k miles.I’d still like to find a set of used control arms so I’m not running the stock ones. I’ll also probably run a set of front tube fenders, just gotta figure out which ones.
Scored a set of tube fenders and poison spyder inners off marketplace for cheap. Installed my old smittybilt rear corners and flares. New Amazon hood latches. Generic jeep is looking good. Time to finish the green one wheeling season is here!
wheeling season is here!
Finished(ish) the jeep. Lowered it an inch, now sitting on 3in and 40s. New ram 2500 master cylinder installed, new PSC power steering pump, got the lockers done and wired, switch pod installed. Still need to get longer front and rear bump stops. Ordered a Clayton front track bar bracket, so I’ll weld that on…but it drives took it on a good 25min drive, no issues. 40s and 5.13s aren’t bad.
took it on a good 25min drive, no issues. 40s and 5.13s aren’t bad.
Swapped out the Currie front track car, I think that’s what was causing the death wobble. I welded in a double sheer Clayton bracket with a Clayton track bar. Being on a 3in lift with Dana 60s, everything is so tight. I had to clearance the diff cover and truss because it would hit at full bump. Took a trip to ok4wd in Stewartsville, NJ for their sporting event. First trip in the jeep and it was about 35mi away. It wasn’t bad, the balance beads definitely do not balance it felt better once I hit 55-60 but anything under that it was wobbly. Once I got there I noticed the right east axle seal leaking. This being a custom high pinion Dana 60, from what I read, it’s a set20 bearing out of a ford 9in. Press on, shouldn’t be too bad to change. Idk if I’m going to change it right away or go on a wheeling trip first 
also found out my trailer deck is about 1in too narrow, drove up one fenders and bent it. I’ll have to make drive over fenders or order that motobilt set.
Peep my little sisters square body in the background. My dad and sister did a frame up resto on it, 6in lift on 35s
it felt better once I hit 55-60 but anything under that it was wobbly. Once I got there I noticed the right east axle seal leaking. This being a custom high pinion Dana 60, from what I read, it’s a set20 bearing out of a ford 9in. Press on, shouldn’t be too bad to change. Idk if I’m going to change it right away or go on a wheeling trip first also found out my trailer deck is about 1in too narrow, drove up one fenders and bent it. I’ll have to make drive over fenders or order that motobilt set. Peep my little sisters square body in the background. My dad and sister did a frame up resto on it, 6in lift on 35s
Swapped out the Currie front track car, I think that’s what was causing the death wobble. I welded in a double sheer Clayton bracket with a Clayton track bar. Being on a 3in lift with Dana 60s, everything is so tight. I had to clearance the diff cover and truss because it would hit at full bump. Took a trip to ok4wd in Stewartsville, NJ for their sporting event. First trip in the jeep and it was about 35mi away. It wasn’t bad, the balance beads definitely do not balance
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Peep my little sisters square body in the background. My dad and sister did a frame up resto on it, 6in lift on 35s
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I made an inner ramp out of 2x4s so my fenders wouldn't bend when driving over them. I think I have some pictures somewhere. It's not pretty, but gets the job done.
Found the pic:
I add some angled bracing after this picture, but it's worked great for me.
I add some angled bracing after this picture, but it's worked great for me.
I'll probably doing that, I bent my trailer fender right in the middle. I put a jack an 4x4 and tried straightening it best I could. I ended up backing the trailer in the garage and welding angle iron on the inside between the wheels to give it more support.
I was going to go the angle iron route as well, but I had wood and not angle so that's what I went with. Maybe when the wood rots I'll go the angle iron route, but after a year it's still working great for me.
Well today was an adventure rausch creek trip. first time wheeling the jeep with tons and 40s. Little shakedown run. It was awesome right up until it wasn’t ended up snapping a one ton tie rod end off. Luckily one of the guys in the group had a stick welder. Trail savior! Need to change up the steering anyway, it sits too close to the axle. I had to mount the hydro assist on the drag link, which I think helped in snapping the tie rod.
rausch creek trip. first time wheeling the jeep with tons and 40s. Little shakedown run. It was awesome right up until it wasn’t ended up snapping a one ton tie rod end off. Luckily one of the guys in the group had a stick welder. Trail savior! Need to change up the steering anyway, it sits too close to the axle. I had to mount the hydro assist on the drag link, which I think helped in snapping the tie rod.
