Project "Single Barrel" An LJ build
- Thread starter jeepster1407
- Start date
Scored a used Currie Currectlynk steering setup from a buddy who was upgrading to tons on his LJ. I paired that with a Metalcloak adj. front track bar.
Next on the list was some sort of rocker protection. Again I decided against buying and designed a set instead. After a couple of templates and test bends I decided on a design. I made them to match the profile of the PS defenders and they go from flare to flare. For these rockers I went with 3/16" steel and added a 3/16" aluminum replaceable striker. I'll likely replace these one day with some 1/8" stainless as the aluminum is awful gouged up.
After about a year with the trektop I was tired of dealing with the PITA rear window. I wanted to switch to a factory top and one popped up in my area in great condition. The buyer and I worked out a deal and swapped tops. (more on the aluminum half doors later)
After fighting with the RC "quick disconnects" for over a year I added an aluminum antirock. I love this thing. There was definitely a difference driving on the street but after a week or so I was used to it. I installed it in the second to last hole and have never changed it. Seems to work great.
The next upgrade I needed to address was the stock rear bumper. I trailer my jeep when I go off road so my spare usually stays on the trailer unless it's a huge park in which case I throw it in the tub. Because of this I didn't need a tire carrier. I wanted a minimalist bumper to help with the departure angle on the big LJ booty. Here again instead of buying an off the shelf bumper I built my own. There may be a pattern here. I think one day there will be a rear stretch and I'm going to relocate the tank form the LJ position to the TJ position. Otherwise I would have sunk the hitch into the rear cross-member. This one is made from 1/4" steel. The tubing is 1-1/4" Sch 80 because we had some in stock (1.66" OD x .191" Wall). Slightly overkill honestly, but it's not budging.
On one wheeling trip I managed to catch the rear corner on a tree, caving the corner in slightly. I pulled the corner out best I could but knew it would happen again. Time for rear corner armor. Rather than making tooling to build them myself or bump forming them I went to Stout Fab and they built a set for me form 3/16" Aluminum. Fit was great and cost was far less than anyone else.
Next up was building a drop down tailgate. Nothing fancy here and very similar to others on the market. At the time my club was still running CB's as our trail comms so I made this slick antenna mount and hinge delete plate all in one. After this was done I swung by my local landfill to get an idea on the complete weight of my jeep. With soft top installed, Full doors on, about 1/2 tank of fuel, no rear seat, spare tools, and me inside it came out to 3,900 lbs on their scale. Take away 160 lbs for me and that comes up to 3740 lbs. Not too shabby. The lady said they just had the scale calibrated an its accurate to within 20 lbs but I cannot confirm this.
I wasn't super happy with just carrying my tools and recovery gear in bags and strapping them down in the tub. After some collaboration with a friend who works at a cabinet shop I came up with a slick drawer setup. The drawer body is made from UV sealed 3/4" Plywood and wrapped in automotive carpet. The drawers are 1/8" aluminum. This setup has been super nice and rattle free. It bolts down to some factory holes in the tub so in the event of a roll it should stay put.
On another recent wheeling trip I got high centered pretty bad on the stock skid. It got mangled and was causing horrible driveline vibes. The time had come for a tummy tuck and SYE. I went with the UCF extra clearance skid in steel, Advance Adapters SYE, Savvy upper rear CA's, Advance Adapters Cable shifter, JKS motor mount lift, 1" Body lift, and Carolina Driveline HD rear driveshaft.
Since I had just installed the new Savvy double adjustable upper CA's in the rear I needed to replace the other worn control arms. I made the lowers double adjustable from 2" 1/4" wall DOM with 1-1/4" Johnny Joints on both ends. These things should take a beating. As for the front uppers they are also double adjustable using a 3/4" Johnny Joint at the frame side and a custom front joint I made out of some 3/16" steel and a 3/4-16 bolt. The uppers are 1-1/2" 1/4" wall DOM because I had some laying around.
During my that past wheeling fiasco where I was extremely high centered I learned why 5052-H32 was not the optimal choice for front bumper material. I was winching off of the obstacle and bound up hard. The pull was straight forward and the inevitable happened. The bumper twisted up cracking my winch. This really sucked because little did I know at the time but the Warn 9.5ti was discontinued and parts were impossible to find. I ended up tearing into the winch to rebuild and couldn't find a replacement top cover. Luckily I had all of the pieces and was able to weld them back up and the cover fits as new. Somehow I jacked the installation of the brake up. I still need to get that fixed.
I see some new exhaust, did you have to get yours reworked after the tummy tuck?
Not 100% necessary but I did. I went with a Magnaflow muffler and had the local muffler shop run a new tail pipe out the back.
So since my first attempt at a front bumper was a fail I figured I'd try again. Since I still had an abundance of the 3/16" 5052-H32 aluminum at my disposal I made another attempt at using that material. Only this time I added a 3/16" steel internal winch plate beneath the aluminum bumper. Hopefully that doesn't happen again.
Also i'm not sure why but I can't seem to find my pictures of it during the fabrication process.
Also i'm not sure why but I can't seem to find my pictures of it during the fabrication process.
Around this time my 2nd hand tires and wheels were getting low on tread and Milestar just came out with their Patagonia M/T's so I decided to give them a shot. I paired them with some Vision Manx simulated beadlock wheels.
On the first wheeling trip out with the new Milestar Pat's a friend of mine caved his tub slightly in even with the aluminum corner armor he had installed. Another friend of mine in the club runs the Savvy rub rails and it seemed like this could have potentially saved the first friend if he had a pair installed. As with everything else I have done here I couldn't just go buy a set I had to take a shot at making a set myself. I made these from 1/8" T304 stainless and they install with carriage bolts from the inside. Hopefully these will save my tub rails if I'm ever in the same position as described earlier.
Again I cant seem to find many pictures of these. If anyone wants to see any better just LMK!
Again I cant seem to find many pictures of these. If anyone wants to see any better just LMK!
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