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Is The JKS 2" Lift Worth The Money?
- Thread starter k1n3k
- Start date
So what I'm gathering is this:
All I *NEED* is springs and shocks. The bracket will help with handling a bit and centering the rear axle, but with only a 2" lift and no additional bumpstop, it might start pinching junk at full bump. An adjustable front and rear track bar can do the centering work if desired.
So the current game plan then is JKS disconnects, BDS 2" springs, RD5000x shocks in the 0-2" variety.
Next step will be adjustable track bars, front and rear at a later date.
Any holes in this plan? Its my DD, so I'm trying to keep this one as streetable as possible but also not open a can of worms just before Winter. Still need to coat everything in rust preventative gunk before it gets too cold.
They're getting overlooked for now, the bushings are still tight and I plan on going to some Currie short arms later, but not until I have my other money pit "finished".
All I *NEED* is springs and shocks. The bracket will help with handling a bit and centering the rear axle, but with only a 2" lift and no additional bumpstop, it might start pinching junk at full bump. An adjustable front and rear track bar can do the centering work if desired.
So the current game plan then is JKS disconnects, BDS 2" springs, RD5000x shocks in the 0-2" variety.
Next step will be adjustable track bars, front and rear at a later date.
Any holes in this plan? Its my DD, so I'm trying to keep this one as streetable as possible but also not open a can of worms just before Winter. Still need to coat everything in rust preventative gunk before it gets too cold.
They're getting overlooked for now, the bushings are still tight and I plan on going to some Currie short arms later, but not until I have my other money pit "finished".
Alright, I've got some Rancho 0-2" shocks coming and BDS 2" springs. Still need to get sway bar end links and I'm going to see how far off center the axles are. If it annoys me, I'll add adjustable track bars front and rear. When I do go to cycle the suspension, I'll check to see if any bumpstop is needed to keep from crushing the shocks and if it needs it, I'll machine some extensions. Staying on the 31s for now, will eventually go to a 265/75r15 and will probably do a BL/MML/tummy tuck at the same time.
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I've got the springs and the shocks. SO I started doing some measuring... Not sure this is looking good.
I'm measuring my TJ Sport that has 2.5" springs on it. They're sitting at 14.5" long, found the chart that usually gets passed around and 14" is 2" of lift.
So I'm measuring off of that TJ Sport to figure out the travel numbers on my Rubicon. Other than springs and shocks, the two jeeps have identical suspension.
So after doing a little measuring on the Sport and comparing to the Rancho shocks I just ordered, it seems like I'll have 6" up, 2" down with the BDS 2" lift springs. That seems... not ideal.
From years of building offroad junk I'd like to see that closer to 40-50% sag. Better ride and control, and when flexed it tends to keep the drooped wheel a bit more loaded for more traction. However, this is my first time building a Jeep without coilovers.
So basically, for the Rancho RS5000X 0-2" flavor of shock in the front, i see the following:
The shock has 8" of travel
2.5" lift= 18.75% sag/6.5" of shaft exposed - not ideal, only 1.5" downtravel
2" lift= 25% sag/6" of shaft exposed - this is the "proven" recipie, but seems limited by shock travel.
1" lift= 37.5% sag/5" of shaft exposed - Is this a good spot to be?
Stock = 50% sag/4" of shaft exposed - Factory spec, probably ideal.
It seems I need to do a little modification to my Sport still. it must have had zero downtravel with the 3.5" springs I took out of it. and that makes sense, it rode like garbage.
But on the Rubicon I'm not convinced that this is a good direction to go. Its probably better to either use these shocks with stock springs, or go to the 2.5" lift longer shocks and add bumpstops to limit uptravel when using 2" springs. I think that would net a better suspension anyway, on my Sport I noticed it seems the upper 2" of shock is unused as is and having that droop would help keep the tires on the ground. I don't believe that the loss of uptravel there would be noticed as its never hitting the bumps as is, and the 2.5" -3.5" lift shock is spec'd at ~1.5" longer compressed length than the 0-2". So a 1.5" bumpstop extension would likely keep it from crushing the shock. Granted, I have not actually bolted the shocks in and stroked the suspension, so its all theoretical.
@jjvw You seem to be pretty savvy on suspension configuration. Whats your thoughts?
I'm measuring my TJ Sport that has 2.5" springs on it. They're sitting at 14.5" long, found the chart that usually gets passed around and 14" is 2" of lift.
So I'm measuring off of that TJ Sport to figure out the travel numbers on my Rubicon. Other than springs and shocks, the two jeeps have identical suspension.
So after doing a little measuring on the Sport and comparing to the Rancho shocks I just ordered, it seems like I'll have 6" up, 2" down with the BDS 2" lift springs. That seems... not ideal.
From years of building offroad junk I'd like to see that closer to 40-50% sag. Better ride and control, and when flexed it tends to keep the drooped wheel a bit more loaded for more traction. However, this is my first time building a Jeep without coilovers.
So basically, for the Rancho RS5000X 0-2" flavor of shock in the front, i see the following:
The shock has 8" of travel
2.5" lift= 18.75% sag/6.5" of shaft exposed - not ideal, only 1.5" downtravel
2" lift= 25% sag/6" of shaft exposed - this is the "proven" recipie, but seems limited by shock travel.
1" lift= 37.5% sag/5" of shaft exposed - Is this a good spot to be?
Stock = 50% sag/4" of shaft exposed - Factory spec, probably ideal.
It seems I need to do a little modification to my Sport still. it must have had zero downtravel with the 3.5" springs I took out of it. and that makes sense, it rode like garbage.
But on the Rubicon I'm not convinced that this is a good direction to go. Its probably better to either use these shocks with stock springs, or go to the 2.5" lift longer shocks and add bumpstops to limit uptravel when using 2" springs. I think that would net a better suspension anyway, on my Sport I noticed it seems the upper 2" of shock is unused as is and having that droop would help keep the tires on the ground. I don't believe that the loss of uptravel there would be noticed as its never hitting the bumps as is, and the 2.5" -3.5" lift shock is spec'd at ~1.5" longer compressed length than the 0-2". So a 1.5" bumpstop extension would likely keep it from crushing the shock. Granted, I have not actually bolted the shocks in and stroked the suspension, so its all theoretical.
@jjvw You seem to be pretty savvy on suspension configuration. Whats your thoughts?
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I think you want these that Rancho make specifically for their own 2.5" lift
https://www.gorancho.com/products/rancho-rs5000x-rs55239-suspension-shock-absorber
https://www.gorancho.com/products/rancho-rs5000x-rs55241-suspension-shock-absorber
I run the RS9000XL on my Rubicon with Ranchos 2.5" springs and Energy suspension .75" polyurethane spring isolators replacing the tired factory rubber isolators. The 241 is correct for the back. I run the RS99255 in the front and it's a tossup between the 239 and 255 for the front with the slightly taller isolator in there, though I think I'd prefer a tiny bit more uptravel with the 239.
Alright, I'm shelving the 2" springs. I ordered some Moog stock replacements that should be the same as the old worn out 129AB springs in the front. I think the plan from here is to get the bumps set up to not let the Ranchos bottom out, then going to stick the springs in and measure. I'm targeting about 40% sag as measured without snubbers. I'll add spacers to hit that target as needed. With the snubbers installed that will probably be closer to 50%.
I really don't need lift yet, so I'll install the 2" springs later with shocks, trackbars, tie rod, etc. when i actually go to 33's. I ordered new springs for the rear as well, I've not even begun to measure that.
I really don't need lift yet, so I'll install the 2" springs later with shocks, trackbars, tie rod, etc. when i actually go to 33's. I ordered new springs for the rear as well, I've not even begun to measure that.
Whatever the shock travel is, you want about 50/50 travel from ride height. The bump stops are not used to limit shock travel. The bump stops are extended to make the jounces compress and slow down the final bit of travel speed before the shock reaches full compression. The compressed shock is your limit to up travel.
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