Suspension Decisions: Can’t Make Up My Mind

[Cameron23]

I’m going to condense this as much as possible. I bought a 99 TJ. From
some dude in BFE, KS. I know nearly nothing about Jeeps and come from the land of Toyota.

It came with a 4” lift. The whole thing just feels loosey goosey on the road at any speed. Nothing quite as bad as a “death wobble”. I have felt some oscillation that felt like it could get nasty if I didn’t speed up or slow down. But never like the steering wheel was ripped out of my hands or uncontrollable or anything.

Took it to a local Offroad shop that specializes in Jeeps so someone who knows what they’re feeling can tell me what I need. Basically they said the list of parts that are good under my rig is shorter than the list of parts that need to be replaced.

Basically it has brand new N3 Rough Country shocks, the springs are a little crusty but still fine. Everything else was way over greased by the previous owner. Some bolts not even tight. Looks like I have stock control arms non adjustable which gives me 0 degrees of caster. Basically I’d need to purchase another rough country lift save for coils and shocks if they even have that option. Oh and they said my ball joints are shot and I know that’s not as simple as just popping them out, that’s inner and outer seals with the diff and what not.

Also I still have a slip yoke…

I am fairly mechanically comfortable but my time is limited and my funds are about $3k +/- to do everything.

This is realistically just going to be my daily driver. I don’t plan on any rock crawling or major off-roading. So that leads me to my decision. Do I:

A. Replace everything with stock suspension components from RockAuto (probably mostly Dorman and MOOG, and Bilstein 4600s for the shocks). This allows me to put less strain on components, and when stuff wears out I can buy cheap replacements and treat it like a true daily. It also allows me to avoid doing an SYE which saves $$$.

-or-

B. Piecemeal together the components needed to maintain the 4” lift, get an SYE, and attempt install myself because everything is expensive AF, and just have the shop do an alignment?

 

[Duck Doctor]

That drop pitman arm needs to be replaced with a stock pitman arm. Ball joints are easy and do not require repairing seals or opening the differential. I'd start with those items and see how the rig drives. If you still need to replace the suspension then given your intended usage I'd recommend returning to stock.

 

[macleanflood]

B.

I had the same issues. Bought a Jeep with a 4" lift. Replaced parts one at a time and slowly brought things up to par.

Oh, and any off-road shop that recommends a Rough Country lift should be avoided.

I'd be looking inside your frame rails and doing a through rust inspection before investing any time or money.

I'd follow this guide and get a baseline for where you are on things. One of the first thing I replaced was my track bars and Currie CorectLync steering...and a factory style pitman arm.

Thread 'How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ'

Oct 31, 2015

Here's how to check and adjust your own toe-in that also includes how to center the steering wheel as well as re-center the axle if necessary. With just a little care on your part with nothing more than a tape measure, a big set of pliers, and a wrench, you can easily set your toe-in with as much accuracy as an alignment shop can. Really.

Start after making sure the front axle is properly centered. That may involve adjusting the trackbar's length which can only be done if there's an aftermarket adjustable-length track bar installed. Or if the original OEM track bar is still installed and...

• Jerry Bransford
• alignment lj alignment tj alignment
• Replies: 400
• Forum: TJ How-to Guides

• 
• 

-Mac

 

[Cameron23]

That drop pitman arm needs to be replaced with a stock pitman arm. Ball joints are easy and do not require repairing seals or opening the differential. I'd start with those items and see how the rig drives. If you still need to replace the suspension then given your intended usage I'd recommend returning to stock.

Is this really a dropped pitman?

 

[Cameron23]

B.

I had the same issues. Bought a Jeep with a 4" lift. Replaced parts one at a time and slowly brought things up to par.

Oh, and any off-road shop that recommends a Rough Country lift should be avoided.

I'd be looking inside your frame rails and doing a through rust inspection before investing any time or money.

I'd follow this guide and get a baseline for where you are on things. One of the first thing I replaced was my track bars and Currie CorectLync steering...and a factory style pitman arm.

Thread 'How to align your Jeep Wrangler TJ'

Oct 31, 2015

Here's how to check and adjust your own toe-in that also includes how to center the steering wheel as well as re-center the axle if necessary. With just a little care on your part with nothing more than a tape measure, a big set of pliers, and a wrench, you can easily set your toe-in with as much accuracy as an alignment shop can. Really.

Start after making sure the front axle is properly centered. That may involve adjusting the trackbar's length which can only be done if there's an aftermarket adjustable-length track bar installed. Or if the original OEM track bar is still installed and...

• Jerry Bransford
• alignment lj alignment tj alignment
• Replies: 400
• Forum: TJ How-to Guides

• 
• 

-Mac

For sure rust was my primary concern. All of it appears to be surface rust. I’ve done a fairly thorough inspection. I’m from the 1st gen Tundra world and know all about how to find, mitigate, and stave off rust. Winter comes around this whole thing will be fluid filmed including inside of the frame.

The shop tried to sell me Metal Cloak. They know what they’re talking about but money seems to be no object.

He was hesitant to price me out a Rough Country lift.

 

[Duck Doctor]

Is this really a dropped pitman?

View attachment 646528

Yes

 

[Cameron23]

Yes

Alright. Adding to shopping cart.

 

[KennethS]

Replace the ball joints. As said, it’s not difficult, and you have to do that no matter what else you do lift-wise or whatever, so get it done. You might be surprised how it drives afterwards.

 

[YonderNorthwest]

Since this is going to be your DD, I'd say go back to stock. Rock auto suspension components won't be expensive, and you can focus your money on whacko-moling the unforeseens. Once you've got your legs under you again (financially), then start thinking about lifts/upgrades. My .02.

 

[Cameron23]

Replace the ball joints. As said, it’s not difficult, and you have to do that no matter what else you do lift-wise or whatever, so get it done. You might be surprised how it drives afterwards.

I definitely like this approach. Replace the shit I’ll need to replace no matter what, and it sounds like I shouldn’t be intimidated by the ball joints, so I’ll probably give em a go. What’s a solid brand for replacement? In the 1st Gen Tundra community we only do OEM Toyota. So I’m hopeful that maybe there’s some solid cheap aftermarket support for TJs.

 

[macleanflood]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007N6OHI0?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[AWayne]

go back to stock or stock plus an inch or two on the lift.

Look up the ZJ steering upgrade part numbers. I think they're:
Es3096L x2
Es2079s x2
Ds1312 X1
DS1238 x1

You can get stock springs used from the for sale section here and zuckbook marketplace.

Cheap shocks of whatever flavor you like. If it's stock I'd give KYB GAS-A-Just a try. I enjoy them and they're pretty cheap.

Look for some used wheels/tires if you're trying to cut costs. 31's and below fit with no lift. Or add a small body lift for a little better clearance. This will eliminate the need for an SYE and whatnot.

 

[Cameron23]

go back to stock or stock plus an inch or two on the lift.

Look up the ZJ steering upgrade part numbers. I think they're:
Es3096L x2
Es2079s x2
Ds1312 X1
DS1238 x1

You can get stock springs used from the for sale section here and zuckbook marketplace.

Cheap shocks of whatever flavor you like. If it's stock I'd give KYB GAS-A-Just a try. I enjoy them and they're pretty cheap.

Look for some used wheels/tires if you're trying to cut costs. 31's and below fit with no lift. Or add a small body lift for a little better clearance. This will eliminate the need for an SYE and whatnot.

I’m a Bilstein loyalist for shocks. If I go back to stock I’ll run 4600s. I got a deal on some wheels and tires that I couldn’t pass up from off a ZJ. If I end up keeping the lift I’d just run the American Racing wheels with 32s that are currently on there. I got the 30s and ZJ wheels cheap enough that I could just sell them pretty easy if I go the 4” route.

 

[inkedrose]

Just did these TTX ball joints recently. Found them cheaper local but these look the same. I had similar steering problems to what you're describing, replaced shocks and tires.. was a game changer. Check age of tires (manufacture date is last 2 numbers). Old tires and sh%ty shocks make for a wild ride. 4" lift with no SYE seems crazy to me too, heard 2"-2.5" is max without getting vibrations. If you are dropping down I'd still keep it at 2" ish. I just like the look of that with 31's


https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-Front-Upper-Suspension-TXK3134T/dp/B00YWCPK1G/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[AWayne]

I’m a Bilstein loyalist for shocks. If I go back to stock I’ll run 4600s. I got a deal on some wheels and tires that I couldn’t pass up from off a ZJ. If I end up keeping the lift I’d just run the American Racing 33s that are currently on there. I got the 30s and ZJ wheels cheap enough that I could just sell them pretty easy if I go the 4” route.View attachment 646546

I've never seen a TJ on the ZJ timberline wheels like that. Would look slick I think!

 

[AWayne]

Just did these TTX ball joints recently. Found them cheaper local but these look the same.

Used much of the Mevotech/TTX stuff? I've always heard it's good quality but haven't bitten the bullet yet for anything.

 

[Cameron23]

I've never seen a TJ on the ZJ timberline wheels like that. Would look slick I think!

I couldn’t find any pics of it but I love those wheels from back in the day. Got the wheels and tires for a sick deal. And figured if I hate it I’ll just sell em.

 

[Cameron23]

Just did these TTX ball joints recently. Found them cheaper local but these look the same. I had similar steering problems to what you're describing, replaced shocks and tires.. was a game changer. Check age of tires (manufacture date is last 2 numbers). Old tires and sh%ty shocks make for a wild ride. 4" lift with no SYE seems crazy to me too, heard 2"-2.5" is max without getting vibrations. If you are dropping down I'd still keep it at 2" ish. I just like the look of that with 31's


https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-Front-Upper-Suspension-TXK3134T/dp/B00YWCPK1G/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Tires are brand new 32s.

The SYE is honestly one of the things making me heavily consider dropping down to stock. Cost of a quality one seems like a chunk of change, and then there’s installing it. I’m decent with a wrench and a YouTube video, though so maybe it’d be no big deal?

 

[inkedrose]

Used much of the Mevotech/TTX stuff? I've always heard it's good quality but haven't bitten the bullet yet for anything.

First time using them. I have a buddy that's a mechanic and talked me into upgrading. Was planning on Spicer and he convinced me to get these instead. Said it's what Ram is using on their newer off road series. So far no complaints

 

[Moglocker]

Is this really a dropped pitman?

View attachment 646528

I don’t know why rough county supply’s that dropped pitman arm,when I did mine ,I got a lot of bump steer.replaced with stock and it went away.