Look on car-part.com for the Dakota bellhousing and make sure you ask for the dust cover too.
Used to be able to buy them for $75... WOW $300 now
Engine swap comparison
- Thread starter KingCarGuyZ
- Start date
Look on car-part.com for the Dakota bellhousing and make sure you ask for the dust cover too.
Used to be able to buy them for $75... WOW $300 now
Current "reman" (I hesitate to call it a rebuild) parts list:
- Silv-o-lite 3241HC.STD pistons
- Hastings 2M4815 rings
- Fel-pro gasket kit (FEL-260-2000)
- Flex-Hone
- Ring compressor
- Head studs (Thanks @macleanflood)
Debating a Melling M167HVS "standard volume" pump and pickup.
and a prayer, Intentionally chose not to replace bearings or lifters, as I am not replacing rods or cam shafts so it seems like the internets opinion is to let sleeping dogs lie.
All of this totals out to about $520, so any stock for stock swap would have to come In under $500 to be cost affective, and would likely be more labor intensive.
- Silv-o-lite 3241HC.STD pistons
- Hastings 2M4815 rings
- Fel-pro gasket kit (FEL-260-2000)
- Flex-Hone
- Ring compressor
- Head studs (Thanks @macleanflood)
Debating a Melling M167HVS "standard volume" pump and pickup.
and a prayer, Intentionally chose not to replace bearings or lifters, as I am not replacing rods or cam shafts so it seems like the internets opinion is to let sleeping dogs lie.
All of this totals out to about $520, so any stock for stock swap would have to come In under $500 to be cost affective, and would likely be more labor intensive.
Last edited:
As they become more rare they've been going up in price... Don't know what you'd have to pay on Ebay anymore but I'd bet prices are comparable.
Melling timing chain kit?
Head studs? Sealant?
Mopar rear main seal?
Lap the valves?
-Mac
Timing chain and rear main are probably going to stay as im trying to do this in the Jeep
Head studs is a good call.
Rear main is a two piece seal and accessed under the rear main bearing cap...which, coincidentally you're already removing.
Timing chain...and I'd add a crank pulley are just under a front cover below the water pump. As most you'd need to remove the radiator. If nothing else you can wiggle the chain with the oil pan off and decide if you want to go for it.
With your milage I'd really recommend it.
-Mac
$500 later parts are OTW, hopefully I can get this all refreshed in a weekend. Rock Auto wound up having cheaper prices on everything but the Pistons if anyone decides to follow in my footsteps.
I run the high volume Melling equivalent and have had good success with it. (Note that part number is the high volume.)
One of their sales reps gave me the info on displacement. The high volume is 0.067 gallons per revolution. High flow is 20% higher than standard volume for reference, so standard volume is 0.056 gallons per revolution.
Note that oil pump RPM is half that of engine RPM.
+1
I did the timing chain, front crank seal, and the harmonic balancer pulley on mine this winter, and had plenty of room with the radiator still in the Jeep (4.0L).
summit oddly enough, I was a little picky in my piston selection in hopes to avoid doing this again
yeah, from a time perspective that going to wind up pushed to the next time I'm down there have to keep this all under 48 hours down time.
Looking forward to seeing how the internals look. Excited to watch the progress. Let me know if I can help!
Would have been nice if he'd have followed up with more on his swap. Looks like his channel died.
To rebuild you are looking at a litttle over a $1100 in parts here are most ot them.
With out doing a tear down I can not know completely all the parts you will need.
But 300k on the motor most of the internal parts will need to be replaced.
With another $700-1000 in machine work depending on what the local cost are in your area
that would be Hot tanking the block, cleaning the passages after doing all the machine work, boring the cylinders, turning the crank,surfacing the block and head,doing a valve job (I included the valves (but your machine shop may only want to use valves and seats they supply).
I would have the Pistons Rods and Crank balanced.
If I was doing it for my Jeep I would clean up the ports with a dremel tool removing the rough surface ans smoothing out any casting makes. Then have the new seats installed you may need to go back and blend thearea just under the seats after they are instlled.
Port match your intake and exhuast manifolge and gaskets.
I would breaking the cam with the old valves then switch to the new spring after the cam is broken in.
No need to pull the head. Just remove all the spark plugs on each cylinder one at a time take about 24in of braided nylon 1/4 in rope with a fender washer on one end with a big knot to keep from feeding all the rope into the cylinder and on the comprision stroke rotate by hand untill the engine will not turn at tis point you can use you valve spring compressor wich is the lever type to push down on the retainer and remove the keepers.
I would use some aluminum foil wrapped around all the push rods to keep from dopping the keepers in to the engine. Most guy willl say to use air to hold the vales but by using the rope there is no way the valve can move and drop in to the cylinder. at this point install the new spring the reatainer and the keepers. Just repeat on all the vales a your done.
,
[td] 2005 JEEP WRANGLER 4.0L L6[/td]
With out doing a tear down I can not know completely all the parts you will need.
But 300k on the motor most of the internal parts will need to be replaced.
With another $700-1000 in machine work depending on what the local cost are in your area
that would be Hot tanking the block, cleaning the passages after doing all the machine work, boring the cylinders, turning the crank,surfacing the block and head,doing a valve job (I included the valves (but your machine shop may only want to use valves and seats they supply).
I would have the Pistons Rods and Crank balanced.
If I was doing it for my Jeep I would clean up the ports with a dremel tool removing the rough surface ans smoothing out any casting makes. Then have the new seats installed you may need to go back and blend thearea just under the seats after they are instlled.
Port match your intake and exhuast manifolge and gaskets.
I would breaking the cam with the old valves then switch to the new spring after the cam is broken in.
No need to pull the head. Just remove all the spark plugs on each cylinder one at a time take about 24in of braided nylon 1/4 in rope with a fender washer on one end with a big knot to keep from feeding all the rope into the cylinder and on the comprision stroke rotate by hand untill the engine will not turn at tis point you can use you valve spring compressor wich is the lever type to push down on the retainer and remove the keepers.
I would use some aluminum foil wrapped around all the push rods to keep from dopping the keepers in to the engine. Most guy willl say to use air to hold the vales but by using the rope there is no way the valve can move and drop in to the cylinder. at this point install the new spring the reatainer and the keepers. Just repeat on all the vales a your done.
,
| Engine : Cylinder Head Bolt | ||
A Info | ||
| Engine : Exhaust Valve | ||
C Info + Sold in packs of 2 | ||
| Engine : Intake Valve | ||
C Info + Sold in packs of 2 | ||
| Engine : Oil Pump | ||
C Info High Volume Pump You'll need to drain and replace the Oil when installing a new oil pump. | ||
| Engine : Piston | ||
C Info 0.116 IN Deep Recess Selected Size: Standard ($28.79/Each) {1}+ $28.790.030" Oversize ($18.05/Each) {6}+ $108.300.020" Oversize (Only 6 Remaining) ($19.98/Each) {6}+ $119.880.040" Oversize (Only 12 Remaining) ($19.98/Each) {6}+ $119.88 + Sold in packs of xConsider an Engine Repair Manual for in-depth repair and rebuilding information. | ||
| Engine : Push Rod | ||
C Info + Sold in packs of 4 | ||
| Engine : Rocker Arm | ||
C Info | ||
| Engine : Thrust Washer | ||
B Info Selected (Only 7 Remaining) ($5.20/Each) {1}+ $5.20 ($1.32/Each) {5}+ $6.60 + Sold in packs of x | ||
| Engine : Valve Spring | ||
C Info Selected ($3.68/Each) {1}+ $3.68 ($3.70/Each) {4}+ $14.80 + Sold in packs of x | ||
| Engine : Engine Kit Gasket Set | ||
A Info Consider an Engine Repair Manual for in-depth repair and rebuilding information. | ||
| Engine : Camshaft & Lifter Kit | ||
C Info |
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$41.79
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$41.79
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$11.74
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$70.44
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$8.00
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$16.00
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$97.79
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$97.79
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$18.05
[/td][td width="1px"]
$108.30
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$1.91
[/td][td width="1px"]
$15.28
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[/td]
[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$15.17
[/td][td width="1px"]
$45.51
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$5.20
[/td][td width="1px"]
$5.20
[/td][td width="1px"]
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$3.70
[/td][td width="1px"]
$44.40
[/td][td width="1px"]
[/td]
[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$137.79
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$137.79
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[td width="1px"][/td][td width="1px"]
$352.79
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$352.79
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Subtotal
[/td][td width="1px"]$935.29
[/td]Doing all that, though good, is probably quite a bit longer down time than the OP wanted.
Speaking of, @KingCarGuyZ any updates?
Parts came in earlier today - exhausted from work but probably start after classes tomorrow, got a ride to and from work Friday so might be able to squeeze in an extra day of down time.
It should be noted that going in, replacing only the pistons and the gaskets to get there, and getting back together ASAP is ill advised, and NOT what is best for the engine or from a labor perspective - that being said we are on a tight budget and an even tighter schedule, so some (most) things have to wait.
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