Anything is Fixable: Dylan_See's TJ Build Thread

[Dylan_See_TJ]

The ProKing CR90 fit! We mounted the transmission without prefilling the converter to test the bolt holes and it worked, so we pulled it apart and prefilled the converter, plus lubed up the pump seal and converter shaft. Got the transmission and transfer case bolted together, and hooked everything up except for the 4WD lever, which I can't quite get to actuate at the bar that sticks out of the transfer case.

Got the front driveshaft prepped to put back together and pressed in a u-joint, couldn't get it to sit properly (probably because I might have bent the yoke removing the seized old joints), and then mangled the plate where the CV joint ball sits further trying to take the u-joint back out. It might be salvageable, but I threw in the towel and ordered a new OEM replacement.

At this point, I am a mere few hours from the first startup with the new 32RH (plus new driveshafts and a new starter; yay, I guess?), so I'm pretty anxious to see if it works okay and nothing leaks. All that's left is the dipstick, hooking up the front of the cooler lines to the radiator, bolting on the starter and the cover plate, strapping on the driveshafts, and slapping the skid plate back on.

In other news, my new wheels (iON Alloy 174s) showed up in the mail this week and are waiting for me to get around to putting some KO2s on them, plus I've got the stuff to replace the bulbs on my KCs and bolt up a winch plate. Definitely ready to get back to fun mods instead of replacing half my drivetrain.

 

[hear]

Take it from me, fill up the transmission now, while you're waiting for the other stuff. The less stuff you have to unbolt in the event of a major leak, the better.

Did you end up going with the deep pan with drain plug?

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

I did go with the deep pan with a drain plug. I also got a maxtow temp sensor and modified a fitting I found on amazon to screw the sensor into the drain plug hole. I will throw a couple quarts in as soon as I get the dipstick installed. I do need to wait a bit for the RTV to cure around it before I pressurize and heat up the system, right? Should that be a whole day, @hear?

Picking up the new front driveshaft on the way home from work today, so we should have everything we need to install before the first startup other than some bolts I think I was missing taking the cover plate off of the bellhousing.

I found the original detent ball for the rooster comb sprocket that selects the gears. It was sitting in the sludge at the bottom of my bucket holding the several gallons of used transmission fluid I stored a pile of parts in for a while to keep them from rusting. Must have dropped it in there taking the valve body apart without noticing. It's no big deal, because I replaced it with a generic steel ball bearing from the hardware store that fits fine, but it was funny to find it cleaning out that bucket.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

The CR-90 has a 5 degree symbol stamped into it, the 703 that didn't fit doesn't have a number stamped into it, and the old one I pulled with my old transmission has a 90 degree symbol stamped into it. I'm not questioning that the CR90 fits, but all the different degree notations peppering my recently acquired collection of torque converters are inducing some serious head scratching.

 

[hear]

I did go with the deep pan with a drain plug. I also got a maxtow temp sensor and modified a fitting I found on amazon to screw the sensor into the drain plug hole. I will throw a couple quarts in as soon as I get the dipstick installed. I do need to wait a bit for the RTV to cure around it before I pressurize and heat up the system, right? Should that be a whole day, @hear?

Where did you RTV? Around the temp sensor bung? I would go with whatever the package says. For ATF, I've had good success sealing up my dipstick tube with The Right Stuff. Most pepole weld in that bung, so I guess we'll just collectively hold our breath for you on this.

I found the original detent ball for the rooster comb sprocket that selects the gears. It was sitting in the sludge at the bottom of my bucket holding the several gallons of used transmission fluid I stored a pile of parts in for a while to keep them from rusting. Must have dropped it in there taking the valve body apart without noticing. It's no big deal, because I replaced it with a generic steel ball bearing from the hardware store that fits fine, but it was funny to find it cleaning out that bucket.

Were you the one who had the check ball fly across the room, or was taht somebody else I was working with?


No clue on the TC markings....one day I'll understand that bit of wizardy better, but that day is not today.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

My bad, I didn't really make the RTV and temp sensor thing all that clear. The bung is welded in; I used a flare fitting to adapt the sensor to the bolt hole for the drain plug. No RTV there. The RTV is for the dipstick tube. I was indeed the one who realized that the detent ball was not something I had seen taking apart the transmission and assumed it had rocketed into the dusty corners of the garage when I popped the rooster comb off. If I'd tried to install that temp sensor plug with RTV, it probably would not have gone well...

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

but that day is not today

Ditto. I'm just glad I found something that bolts up.

 

[hear]

do you have an o-ring or a rubber grommet/sleeve thing? For the dipstick, I've never needed RTV except on my transmission. I have an o-ring, but I can't get it to seal back up. My daughter has an identical 97 and hers sealed up no problem. The grommet makes it even easier. I think I would say that unless you KNOW you need RTV to seal it, don't use RTV to seal it.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

do you have an o-ring or a rubber grommet/sleeve thing? For the dipstick, I've never needed RTV except on my transmission. I have an o-ring, but I can't get it to seal back up. My daughter has an identical 97 and hers sealed up no problem. The grommet makes it even easier. I think I would say that unless you KNOW you need RTV to seal it, don't use RTV to seal it.

Ohhh… I thought I had to use RTV. Noted. Thanks! Getting that rear driveshaft and then it’ll be time to get to work bolting the last few things on so we can fire her up (planning on filling with a couple quarts before we start doing driveshafts and starter so we can see if any obvious leaking is happening).

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

The PO of my old transmission had slathered the stick tube in RTV, but I’ll hunt for a suitable O ring if it isn’t still good.

 

[hear]

if they used RTV there's a decent chance you'll need it. They probably didn't do it "just to be safe." I follow the directions to the letter on The Right Stuff and have never had a problem. I should add that my particular transmission is unique to me in that I can't for the life of me get the dipstick tube seated to the correct depth to get the bracket to line up. If I line it up, its way too shallow and leaks. If I jam it in good, it leaks less but misses the bolt hole by a lot. I would LOVE to replace it with the grommet style, but I think I need to replace the dipstick to do so (the bore is the same size I think.

If you are so inclined, you can run the transmission without the driveshafts, or even with the t-case in neutral. I normally run mine that way after a rebuild as a precaution. I actually put both in N and fire it up and let it idle for a minute to push a bunch of fluid & charge the TC. Then I shift gears, and eventually put the t-case in gear.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

Cleaned the rubber sleeve and the tube and bolted her up. I’m gonna leave off the RTV for the first startup and see if I need to pull it and leakproof it with sealer. New transmission but same dipstick, so I figure I’ve got a decent chance either way. Poured 5 quarts in to bring it to six with the one in the TC, and no leaks after sitting for a couple hours for other bolt-ons and dinner. Getting closer and closer to turning the key for the first time.

 

[hear]

98 & you have the grommet rather than the o-ring? Interesting. The dipstick tube has a taper on it for the last inch or so?

You’ll know pretty quick if it’s leaking. Pro tip, drain the pan first. If you pull the dipstick first you’ll get ATF everywhere. Ask me how I know.

Praying for no leaks for you.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

98 & you have the grommet rather than the o-ring? Interesting. The dipstick tube has a taper on it for the last inch or so?

You’ll know pretty quick if it’s leaking. Pro tip, drain the pan first. If you pull the dipstick first you’ll get ATF everywhere. Ask me how I know.

Praying for no leaks for you.

Yeah, I appear to have the grommet style; the tube does indeed taper for the last inch or two. Got the starter installed, the transmission mount bolted on, the transfer case lever connected, and the dust cover for the bell housing on. All that’s left, which I’ll tackle tonight after work, is installing both driveshafts, installing the skid plate, filling the transfer case, and routing the tcase breather hose and transmission pan temp sensor wiring up into the engine bay securely. Fingers crossed everything works once she’s live.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

Shiny new transmission and all its accessories as of last night.

The grommet style fitting at the bottom of the dipstick tube.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

I finally, finally, got everything back together, put her in neutral, and rolled her out into the yard for the first startup and initial testing. The new starter kicks hard, no trouble there, and the new crankshaft position sensor must be good, because she at least idles fine. Let it idle in neutral for a bit, rowed through the gears (felt the weight shifting and the driveline reacting to the transmission switching outputs, so at least something is going right.

Fluid level was still low, so we added about a quart and a half. No scary "oh no oh no everything is exploding noises", which is a relief. She rolls forward in drive a bit weakly, and doesn't real want to roll in reverse, but that might be because the fluid could still be low. Checking that again tomorrow when I have daylight and more time after work. No leaks that I could scope out with a flashlight laying under it, but I will definitely be on the lookout tomorrow when I get to testing and adjustment during daylight hours.

The only two things that mildly concern me are that there's a bit of a shuddering noise in reverse, at least after I'd run up and down the gear stick a couple times and settled there, and that the idle speed takes a nose dive and then climbs back up when I pop it into neutral, which seems to be the opposite of what should happen. So far I think everything that is even mildly concerning could be explained by insufficient ATF, although I am going to do my darndest not to overfill the new unit.

Considering that nothing exploded, she moved under her own power with no throttle even (I didn't touch the gas pedal at all while the Jeep was running so far), and there were no terrifying crunching or scraping or screeching, I'm tentatively considering the rebuild "done", at least for now, pending adjustments to the linkage and fluid level of course.

Fingers crossed my initial optimism is warranted.

 

[hear]

Reverse needs 3x the line pressure so if you’re low on fluid, that could be why. Also, did you soak the L/R band in atf before you put it in? The drum should pick up the fluid the first time it rotates but still…

Did you relocate the breather? I should’ve asked you that when it was still apart. Over filling it won’t really cause a problem other than that once it warms up it will puke it out the breather, which is behind the TC so itll look like a leaky seal. Eventually it will equalize the level for you.

And did you torque down the valve body properly? If the VB doesn’t seal up against the case you’ll get an amazing shudder in reverse. Ask me how I know.

If you have to open her back up, get a clean bucket and reclaim that fresh ATF, unless you’re independently wealthy.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

I did not soak either band before I put it in, just the clutches. I was under the impression that soaking the bands was unnecessary. I decided not to relocate the breather. I did torque down the valve body to the case; even marked the bolt heads with a sharpie while I was zig zagging around in a random pattern with the torque wrench so I’d definitely get them all. Appreciate the tip on the breather making it look like the pump seal is leaking; that would definitely freak me out if I saw fluid coming from under that dust cover on the housing.

 

[hear]

I didn’t soak my bands either, so I don’t think that’s your issue, I just wondered.

 

[Dylan_See_TJ]

Well, she drives okay in D, 1, and 2, at least around the yard, but with poor throttle response, which could totally be the throttle linkage. Bad news is that reverse doesn’t work. I get a shudder-like chattering sound when it’s in reverse, which I’ll post a video of.